Topic: could anyone proof read my diagram?

[sawyerds]

I've done my searches but haven't come across anything I'm after (that I know of).

This is what I've come up with for my running/signal light circuit and would love a proof read.  My goal is minimalism as far as relays, wire, etc. ..but I want my four blinkers, with dimmer, front-only running lights. all LED (including indicator display). thanks in advance

[sawyerds]

oh yeah, and the LED's are just some minis that I picked up from dime city.  I believe all of them (blinkers and indicators) have self-contained resistors.

EDIT (AGAIN): i forgot the indicator led lights on the diagram but they are supposed to be in each blinker series between the relay and rear signal.

[bjbuchanan]

You need diodes for the indicator lights, unless you are doing separate circuits for right and left and separate indicator lights respectively

Do a 15amp fuse before that ignition switch as a safety precaution, will add next to nothing in terms of complication and space

What I did to minimize wiring runs was to run switched hot to the HL bucket and make all my forward hot connections in the rat nest. Made for a single power wire up there, single fat ground as well. Then your 2 small wires for rear signals. Run separate switched hot for rear of bike that is brake and runner

[scottly]

You don't need relays to handle the low-current LEDs. If you use an LED compatible flasher, you don't need the load resistors, which defeat the purpose of using the LEDs in the first place. 

[sawyerds]

Scottly,
Not sure I understand your point. As I said, I want the forward running lights. I cannot just plug and play two-wire LEDs without at least some diodes on the stock set up. That is why I made a new diagram.

Also, the load resistors are there by necessity, They are small enough just to make even an electronic flash.  The larger ones added in the diagram are to dim the running lights relative to blinkers. These should still use less power over stock candles.

Please tell me if I'm mistaken or explain your simpler solution.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[bryanj]

I don't think you can have one set of led's doing both running lights and blinkers

[Lostboy Steve]

I don't think you can have one set of led's doing both running lights and blinkers

yes you can. 12oclocklabs.com sells integrators and fixed rate flasher. I bought them for my wr250r and they work great, they can also be used universally, and you dont need two filament (or dual led) bulbs.

[Lostboy Steve]

Scottly,
Not sure I understand your point. As I said, I want the forward running lights. I cannot just plug and play two-wire LEDs without at least some diodes on the stock set up. That is why I made a new diagram.

Also, the load resistors are there by necessity, They are small enough just to make even an electronic flash.  The larger ones added in the diagram are to dim the running lights relative to blinkers. These should still use less power over stock candles.

Please tell me if I'm mistaken or explain your simpler solution.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Again this seems like a lot of trouble. Get a fixed rate flasher and turn signal integrators and you're done. The running lights will be on and will flash at a steady normal rate when switched to whichever direction you want. 12oclocklabs.com very good products and great customer service!

[sawyerds]

Thanks for the replies.

Idk how I didnt know about those 12oClock adapters after everything thats been covered on this!  Hopefully the next noob-to- motorcycles will find this thread and save some time. Or at least find the threads I didn't!

Anyway,  about those parts...

Our bikes (my bike =76 750F) are not in the compatability list. I'm sure they would work but... At $30 bucks for the steady state flasher and another $30 for running light adapters, I'm not so sure this is less trouble!

Also, by rewiring per my diagram, wouldn't it be nice to have less wire on the bike in general, and also a single, 2 pole switch as the relays' trigger?? I would think this would simplify the bar switch and open the door to really any possibilities as far as choosing switches.. or even add a hazard light switch (if desired). or   

Any more Opinions?  another $60 investment versus a slightly bigger relay package in this set up??  also i could sub micro relays for this circuit, though I haven't exactly found any.

[sawyerds]

gonna bump this for my previous post,  and have a couple things to add. 


In regard to the above recommendations, I think I've found a simpler aftermarket solution to the 2 wire led replacement for 3 wire stock bulbs issue. ( http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_module.htm ) .

I'm bumping this thread and asking if this will work because I have seen no mention of it anywhere in my searches, and because it looks too good to be true as far as simplicity.  I cant imagine it could make a 2 wire led operate as a dual filament in that small, inline package. Please let me know what you think.

Also:
Any opinion on running lights that are the same brightness as the blinking circuit? seems most "led adapters/integrators" don't dim the runners anyway, and running a resistor in-line with an LED in my above diag., I realize, will not really dim it as much as simply add demand from the battery.  I thought a small resister may dim my runners relative to my blinkers like an incandescent would, but maybe I am mistaken? If they wont, I will leave any resistors out of the circuit all together. 

If I decide to let some of these things go (dimmer running lights/allowing rear blinkers to also act as running lights), I could really make it easier on myself as far as wiring.  I'm thinking the amber rear running lights are not legal? I assume just 'cause I haven't seen them, only dual filaments that are also red, activated as the tail and/or brake lights. I'm interested in being legal in more than just my own state of NC; the extra light, so long as it is LED (low load) does not bother me, as I'm going for safety too.