Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 98721 times)

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #100 on:** July 07, 2014, 09:39:57 PM »

Wow. I have no idea. And I did not know the 750Ks were offset. Is the offset built into the hub or by use of the axle spacers? I have to believe the left and right fork cases are exact mirror images though.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #101 on:** July 07, 2014, 09:45:37 PM »

The offset on the 750 wheel is how the spokes are trued relative to the hub (according to Hondaman aka Mark Paris, "My CB750 book", Page IIIB-2).

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #102 on:** July 07, 2014, 10:07:31 PM »

That must be difficult to get that precise of an offset. That's way beyond my skill set.

BTW, Don - I enjoyed the Moto video. Puts the build all into perspective in just a few minutes. You put a lot of love into that bike. Would like to see one on the green 550.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #103 on:** July 07, 2014, 10:20:19 PM »

Quote from: Blackfin5 on July 07, 2014, 10:07:31 PM

That must be difficult to get that precise of an offset. That's way beyond my skill set.

BTW, Don - I enjoyed the Moto video. Puts the build all into perspective in just a few minutes. You put a lot of love into that bike. Would like to see one on the green 550.

That's very kind. The 550 is a fun little bike but too "common" for any serious attention. That said, I really love it as a simple, lightweight fun machine.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #104 on:** July 09, 2014, 10:35:58 AM »

Wiring is in full swing. Except for the starter safety unit (which Mr. Postman delivered this morning), I have everything I need mounted and wired on the left side electrics plate. I used an OEM plate, blasted it, then cut off all mounts, etc which I do not need. It was much easier than trying to fab up a new plate. Now all I need to do is wire up the brake switches (not using a clutch switch), the neutral switch, connect the Dyna to the stator once the engine is back in the bike, and wire up the m-unit input wires to the 2 handlebar m-switches (5 push buttons total). I also have a new Yuasa sealed battery with great cranking amperage (only slightly taller by 1/4" than OEM), and stator/field coil rewired by Rick's, rebuilt starter motor, and 2 new starter solenoids - also by Rick's. Getting close - its making me crazy.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #105 on:** July 09, 2014, 10:47:41 AM »

The new rear axle spacers arrived today (in the foreground). They look even prettier in person. Going to sneak away early to install. Another check off the list.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #106 on:** July 09, 2014, 11:25:57 AM »

That is great to know!! Yes - I am using the m-lock and one of the push buttons on the m-switch as the start/kill button. Do you happen to need an OEM SMSU?? I was trying to discern from the directions as to whether the m-unit did, indeed, incorporate its own SSM/SMSU. I swear I read those instructions (in English!) more than once trying to figure out if this is one of the m-unit's features. That would be great to sh*t can the SMSU from my electrics plate.

Now I need to figure out how to wire the neutral switch to the m-unit and I do think I saw a reference to the neutral switch in one of the simplified wiring diagrams.

Thanks, Cal!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #107 on:** July 09, 2014, 11:30:22 AM »

Cal, are you using a m-lock too? Am I assuming correctly that if using the m-lock with an m-unit, that I may disregard the relay which comes in the box with the m-lock (since the m-unit acts as the relay)

Also, is the recommended 1A fuse still needed?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #108 on:** July 09, 2014, 12:34:27 PM »

"Neutral/side stand switch can be wired into "config" port on the left side."
Yes - got that.

"Relay is not needed if using m-lock."
OK - thanks for this answer.

"The 1a is only for the m-lock. Hard to imagine that with it connected to the m-unit (which is also internally fused and has over-charge protection) that it could be damaged. But, it does prevent a possible failure..."
OK - will still use the 1A fuse

"My m-unit is wired directly to the battery POS but, Reg/Rec is inline fused before battery with 15a. That's the only "external" I'm using."
Same here.

"One thing to know: you need some type of momentary button connected to the m-unit to configure it with an initial setup. Usually, this would be wired into the "config" port. If your Neutral switch is wires there, then you can "trick" it by disconnecting from power, then with a temporary grounded jumper, touch the metal screw of the config port just as the unit "initializes"".
Thanks for this tip. I have a marine momentary switch I was going to use for the initial set up, but as you say, my neutral switch will be wired there, so this is good to know.

Thanks, Cal!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #109 on:** July 11, 2014, 08:48:46 AM »

Thanks, Cal.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #110 on:** July 11, 2014, 09:31:14 AM »

Hey Cal, is that Hipster Junk?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #111 on:** July 11, 2014, 10:45:08 AM »

You stole my punch line!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #112 on:** July 11, 2014, 11:23:30 AM »

Rear tire looks even better with the new axle spacers.

Reassembling cases. If anyone sees something out of whack, please ley me know. I'm am no engine builder - merely a follow the directions assembler.

Kick start shaft/mechanism.

Shift mechanism.

Lower case and crank. The crank is just temporarily sitting in the lower case until I can source a new primary and cam chains. Any suggestions as to where to look?

Tranny.

Some of the new oil seals. Can anyone identify for me the 2 smallest seals and where they go? I don't have the old ones and can't recall these. I'm lost - even went to all the schematics for the 550 engine with no luck.

MRieck · « **Reply #113 on:** July 12, 2014, 08:00:01 AM »

Here is a source for the primary chain Kevin http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k1-four-1975-usa_model466/partslist/E++05.html#results

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #114 on:** July 12, 2014, 08:10:29 AM »

Thanks, Mike. Coincidentally, I stumbled on it last night. CMS shows 2 with slightly different part numbers. Price is the same - ~~148~~ 101 euros. I'm thinking they may have 2 different manufacturers.

Tews19 · « **Reply #115 on:** July 13, 2014, 04:18:50 PM »

The small rings I believe are for the shifter seal and the neutral switch area... let me snap a pic to be sure of mine.

Tews19 · « **Reply #116 on:** July 13, 2014, 04:22:04 PM »

There you go.... If that isn't the correct ones I will take a look after I'm done frying the zucchini and squash!

Bootsey · « **Reply #117 on:** July 13, 2014, 04:51:01 PM »

Can't quite see the size of the seals, but if they aren't the ones Tews already suggested, they might possibly be the clutch arm dust seal (on the clutch cover) or the tach drive seal. I crossed referenced the sizes with CMSNL drawings.

Tews19 · « **Reply #118 on:** July 13, 2014, 05:00:34 PM »

Bootsey is correct

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #119 on:** July 13, 2014, 08:26:24 PM »

Thanks Tews. I have the shift drum shaft oil seal already installed - yes its the one immediately adjacent to the neutral switch. Those 2 oil seals I am trying to figure out are much smaller than the shift drum shaft oil seal.

If you have pics though, please post them up.

Bootsey · « **Reply #120 on:** July 13, 2014, 08:59:00 PM »

Of those two smaller seals, the one with the smaller inner diameter looks like it could be the tachometer drive seal, where the tach cable connects into the head.
The other seals appears like it could be the clutch actuating arm dust oil seal, this should be on the actual clutch cover, on the arm that the clutch cable connects to.

These drawings are for a '75 CB550 K, think these should be the same though....
Tach seal #35 http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k0-four-1975-usa_model465/partslist/E++01.html#results
Clutch arm #33http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k0-four-1975-usa_model465/partslist/E++03.html#results]

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #121 on:** July 13, 2014, 09:50:05 PM »

Bingo! Thanks guys - you're the best! You were exactly right.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #122 on:** July 14, 2014, 11:22:35 AM »

Speaking of oil seals, I was intending to apply a very light coat of Threebond 1184 (can't find 1104 anywhere except China - right) on the contact surfaces of all the engine seals, even the 2 crankshaft seals. I have been told emphatically by a race engine builder to go dry and clean for any oil seal located on where the cases are split - such as the crank oil seals. Does anyone else oppose using a light surface coat of Threebond on the crank seals? I've seen guys install the crank seals squeeky clean, with sealant, and some with a light smear of motor oil. I think one bike manufacturer even voids their warranty if they find sealant on the crank seals on the theory that the sealant yields uneven pressure on the seals when the case bolts are torqued down.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #123 on:** July 18, 2014, 11:34:17 AM »

One of the reasons (but not the only) why this Danielle build is taking so long is that I tend to help my buddies with their 550s before working on mine. Of the four other 550s, they are all coming to completion at about the same time. This one is basically done as soon as the seat is mounted and taillight wired up.

Here are his "Brown Bomber" fender and seat just completed.

Trad · « **Reply #124 on:** July 18, 2014, 12:04:25 PM »

That paintwork and upholstery look great.

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Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 98721 times)