Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 90802 times)

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #500 on:** January 24, 2015, 04:22:34 PM »

I spent today trying to reconfigure my rear brake rod so that it pulls the rear drum brake lever instead of pushing it. I'm using Tarrozi rearsets for the 550. They have an inner arm on the Tarrozi spindle which connects to the brake rod. I had this inner arm in down position because with the CMR box swingarm, it would not clear when in the up position. So when the brake foot lever is depressed down, turning the spindle clockwise (when viewing from the right side of the bike), it forces the brake rod backwards - a pushing action. Of course, this is not an optimal situation and somewhat unsafe given the tendency of the thin diameter brake rod to bend. The pic below shows the relative position of the inner arm attached to the brake rod. There are 2 outer arms - one is for the rearset linkage, the other for the wire spring to activate the brake switch (the lower, smaller outside arm. The inner arm connected to the rod is in the down position. You can see as the taller outside arm is pushed forward by depressing the foot lever, the brake rod is "pushed" back.

To make the inner arm fit vertically and clear the swingarm, I had to cut off the brake stop (which I also discovered was interferring with the swingarm down movement) and I then ground off about 3/8" of the inside of the frame tube which houses the brake spindle. This allows the inner arm to be vertical next to the swingarm so when the foot lever is depressed it "pulls" the brake rod forward. It barely clears the side of the swingarm with the brake rod attached.

At this location of the swingarm, the swingarm box tubes are widening, and the inner arm will still hit the side of the swingarm if there is too much range of motion. It's tight.

Like everything else, you clear up one issue and two others pop up. Since the frame tube housing is now shorter, I need to machine a spacer between the outisde of the tube and the outer Tarrozi spindle. Not a big deal, really. Also, the elimination of the brake stop means that the return spring may now cause the foot lever to ride too high. I won't know until everything is reassembled. If so, I will need to rig up some alternative stop. At least now the brake rod pulls the drum brake lever forward as it was designed.

Cheers.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #501 on:** January 24, 2015, 09:18:44 PM »

After re-assembly of the rear brake spindle and rod, you can see how close it is to the swingarm. It clears, but just barely, and I have enough range of motion after taking out a lot of slack by using the rear adjuster nut on the end of the brake rod. (Ignore the grinding dust - haven't cleaned up yet).

And I re-installed the Mac outlet pipe and Cone muffler. These pics show max tuck. It doesn't look so bad in the photos (it's worse than it appears), but I would still be concerned about a hard lean to the right. I have to say that I am not a big fan of the Mac 4-1, but it had to do in a pinch. When I dry fit the old Kerkers without the interferring stock oil filter housing, the Kerkers tucked more up underneath the bike and looked like they were made for the 550.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #502 on:** January 24, 2015, 09:45:28 PM »

The new angle of attack on the Cone megaphone is perfect.
Now we need a full profile pic.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #503 on:** March 09, 2015, 10:56:56 AM »

Break-in update. My plan was to go through about 5 heat cycles before changing the oil. I'm using Maxima 10w/30 break-in oil formulated with high zinc concentration. For break-in, I am pulling fairly hard out of uphill turns in 2nd, 3rd and 4th on 10-15 mile canyon rides. Yesterday, the 4th session was the strongest as far as increasing the RPMs. Back at the shop, the bike was leaking oil profusely. At first I thought the drain plug had loosened, but it was coming from the bottom left side of the sprocket cover. I have not inspected yet, but I am pretty sure it's the oil pump. I installed all new rubber o-ring gaskets (the cover, the seat for the oil pump into the case, and the 2 small ones. There were no leaks up to this point in time.

I drained the oil, then changed out the filter. Tonight I will remove the sprocket cover and see if I can locate the exact cause of the leak. The oil drain plug magnet really works...you can see the before and after cleaning. (sorry for poor cell phone pics). The oil had a cloudy, slightly tan tint to it. I will be re-filling the case with a Maxima 10w/40 semi-syn oil.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #504 on:** March 09, 2015, 11:36:47 AM »

Looks like the Ti Pro-Bolt. I didn't know they made one that fits the CBs.

Bummer on the leak, Kevin. Hope its a sidecover gasket issue.

flatlander · « **Reply #505 on:** March 09, 2015, 11:45:38 AM »

amazing to see all that stuff on the magnetic plug. you might just have convinced me to get one!
bummer about the incontinence. hope you can fix it soon.

calj737 · « **Reply #506 on:** March 09, 2015, 11:58:55 AM »

Don - no gasket on that side cover. If it's not his oil pump leaking, then it's either the oil pressure switch, or worse, the primary shaft seal

Kev - don't let Gov. moonbeam see that picture! He will certainly tax you for environmental contamination

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #507 on:** March 09, 2015, 12:49:38 PM »

Thanks for concern. I'm betting it's something to do with the oil pump. But it's as if something "blew" because it went from nothing to quite a bit. I put some stress on the engine yesterday beyond what I have.

Otherwise, the bike is STRONG and pulls nicely.

I had on the Ikon 12.56" shocks and the rear tire was hitting the bottom of the seat pan once in a while, but enough where it spun off a nut bolting the m-unit on the pan under the seat. I went to the Ikon made for the 750s, which is 13.35" eye-to-eye. My front forks are TNKs which are 570mm (about 5mm longer than stock). I can actually feel the ride height difference and hope I'm not reducing the trail by too much. By my math calcs, the trail is reduced by about 6mm using the taller Ikons - but I am no longer rubbing over the big bumps. Doesn't seem like a lot but if my calcs are correct, the trail is now sitting around 97-98mm. Also, since my front wheel went to a 100/90 (664mm dia.) and my rear to a 120/90 (674 dia.), I believe that the bigger 120/90 on the rear is not affecting trail. The tire dias. are about the same as stock, I believe.

In doing a search for the stock trail for a '78 550, I see 4.1", 102.5mm and 105mm. Does anyone know the exact figure?

Cheers.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #508 on:** March 09, 2015, 01:09:32 PM »

Cal, what hydrocarbon spill? My CB is water cooled and I only use spring water from the Alps. Besides, that is where a concrete driveway is soon to be poured.

calj737 · « **Reply #509 on:** March 09, 2015, 01:21:31 PM »

Did you replaced hem ri art oil seal when cases were apart? If so, did it have the "lip"? I ordered a set that listed it as an OEM kit and it did not have the lip. Had to re-order true Honda parts... Sounds like this might be a possible culprit...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #510 on:** March 09, 2015, 02:24:41 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 09, 2015, 11:58:55 AM

Don - no gasket on that side cover. If it's not his oil pump leaking, then it's either the oil pressure switch, or worse, the primary shaft seal

Kev - don't let Gov. moonbeam see that picture! He will certainly tax you for environmental contamination

Oops. I must have read that wrong. Yep. Hopefully, it's not the primary shaft seal.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #511 on:** March 09, 2015, 02:56:20 PM »

Yes...replaced every seal, o-ring and gasket....with the lip for shaft.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #512 on:** March 09, 2015, 04:52:26 PM »

Turns out it the shifter rod seal under the sprocket cover. One side of the seal popped out. I can only get a thin blade screwdriver to push it back in. Then the other side popped out as I tried. So I used 2 blades, one holding the seal in place and the other to push. The seal is back in but I am not confident. After refilling the case with new oil, its forming a tiny pool of oil at the lower edge of the seal. I dry it up and slowly a tiny pool forms again. Havent started her up yet or work the shifter. Worried it might pop out of place.

Suggestions?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #513 on:** March 09, 2015, 05:39:24 PM »

PVC pipe and a mallet.

calj737 · « **Reply #514 on:** March 09, 2015, 05:48:59 PM »

That's one that needs a lip there... I love you too much to be the one who tells you what's coming...

MickB · « **Reply #515 on:** March 09, 2015, 05:54:28 PM »

Cal could Danielle slide the lipped seal in place with the help of a feeler gauge used gently to ensure the lip gets inserted ok?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #516 on:** March 09, 2015, 05:56:22 PM »

Don...beat you to it. Great minds...1/2 PVC seated it but not 100% integrity.

Cal...so who has one with fish lips and can it be pressed in from the outside?

What about Hondabond or Aviation sealant after draing oil (again) and cleaning mating surface? I can pull the shifter rod thru from the other side.

bwaller · « **Reply #517 on:** March 09, 2015, 07:49:01 PM »

That seal has changed dimensions but never had a lip. It's too bloody narrow. You can cut a piece of PVC just long enough to keep the seal in place inside the cover. Bad news is you need to replace the thing. With the area clean & dry rub a little RTV on the OD of the seal and tap in in place with your pvc piece.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #518 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:50:05 AM »

In searching for these seals, I found a 24x13.8x5mm and a 24x14x5mm. I remember thinking how easily the seal went into the case and slid over the shifter rod. It now leaks very slightly around the OD but worried it will pop off again while riding. Maybe I have the 14 ID and its not applying enough pressure against the case where it seals.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #519 on:** March 10, 2015, 07:02:01 PM »

I swear, these old bikes are frustrating at times. After tapping in the seal with 1/2 PVC and filling with oil, I starter her up intently watching for any leaks, thinking if it does then to try a new seal with RTV per Brent. On the third or fourth rev after starting, a large amount of oil shot out to the left all over my shoes and socks. I immediately thought the primary shaft seal or oil pump blew out. No...I used a chrome spin on oil filter from 4into1 or Vintage CB750 (cant remember). The rubber sealing gasket blew out. It was on hand tight as I always do. I had no idea there was that much pressure built up inside the filter. Oil is everywhere.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #520 on:** March 10, 2015, 07:52:22 PM »

The shakedown period sucks!

calj737 · « **Reply #521 on:** March 10, 2015, 07:53:21 PM »

Kind of like birthing a baby; its messy at the start with all the "fluids" coming from unknown orifices...

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #522 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:09:41 PM »

Yes it does! And apt analogy. I still love it. Last ride I was smiling ear to ear.

Riceman · « **Reply #523 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:20:10 PM »

Is it possible to get too much oil pressure ?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #524 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:23:26 PM »

Riceman, I have no idea. Just saying, I have never heard of any oil filter seal blowing out. Maybe it was defective??

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Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 90802 times)