Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 144799 times)

MickB · « **Reply #125 on:** May 16, 2014, 04:30:37 AM »

Dave thanks for reply, no I didn't mix them up they were in a re sealable plastic bag (remember when I bought the bike, it came in pieces). I'll get them out and clean them and put some photos on, get plastiguage and give it a go.

MickB · « **Reply #126 on:** May 17, 2014, 01:17:16 AM »

Dave probably hard to tell from a photo but here are the bearings with some close ups.

To me some look like they've never been used, but I don't really know.

What do you think?

dave500 · « **Reply #127 on:** May 17, 2014, 01:55:20 AM »

the surface of this type of bearing is actually designed to let foreign debris embed into it!i cant really tell without seeing those in person but if the motor was running fine itll all be ok so long as each shell goes back to where it came from,ive done plenty of these engines and re run all the shells,ive also bought new shells as a matter of course in other motors,i always linish the crank journals with the old 600 wet/dry and shoe string trick like trying to start a fire?wrap enough paper around the journal to overlap then wind a boot lace around and around leaving two long ends to zig zag the paper around back and forth,soaked in kero or engine oil,be sure to wash everything like new.i don't have a photo of a crank being done but this should give you the idea,just spin it around a dozen times to sort of deglaze the journal.

MickB · « **Reply #128 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:00:58 AM »

Thanks again Dave, the tip on the 600 wet and dry is of great help. The crank has been checked over (by Heads Plus)) and the journals are right in spec ( size is shown in the photo).

Unfortunately the bearing shells were all loose in a bag (I have no idea which she'll goes with which journal).

I'll have Ivan (best mechanic in Sydney) have a look at them.

dave500 · « **Reply #129 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:03:46 AM »

if they are mixed up replace them,or try and sort them out by wear marks(youll get two or three correct?)get that water of that journal right now!

MickB · « **Reply #130 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:24:43 AM »

Thanks Dave, the water was there 8 months ago and was dealt with then, I was hosing all the crud off the parts and then dried and oiled.

I think new bearing shells are the order of the day, off to David Silver's.

On another note after cleaning and prep work I got a lot of painting of parts done today, pegs, battery frame, seat, ignition surround, engine mounts and others parts.

Seat before paint

Lacquered 2 coats front and rear hubs with POR Glisten.

Felt like I really make some progress today

dave500 · « **Reply #131 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:39:11 AM »

I number with a sharpie(or a skin head?)bearing shells on the back cylinder # and upper or lower,theyll allways re run ok unless there was a problem before hand you knew about?,they should be floating on a cushion of hot oil?plain bearings don't touch the crank when running more or less,roller type cranks that run low splash pressure or two strokes have an actual physical contact type bearing.

MickB · « **Reply #132 on:** May 17, 2014, 05:23:55 AM »

Thanks Dave you've been a real help

Regards

Mick

bryanj · « **Reply #133 on:** May 22, 2014, 01:40:29 AM »

Ones that look like the 2nd individual pic down are too dirty and marked to use, top pic AOK

With a used crank,rods and cases its fine to fit a full set of the tightest tolerance you can find (black was it when all were available) then just run it in properly for 2-3 000 with a couple of oil changes.

honda's original idea was to build them as if they had been run in so all the motor needed was a short bedding in period.

Kawasaki caught a cold when people ran in the first Z1000 too much and they ended up reboring under warantee as the bores glazed meaning high oil consumption--should just have said keep it below the speed limit (70mph in UK) till you hit 4th gear!!!

MickB · « **Reply #134 on:** May 23, 2014, 01:26:36 AM »

Thanks Bryan but I'm not sure some are ice and shiney. I'm going to get a mechanic mate to advise me, he's been a Mercedes mechanic for 30+ years.

Today got a fair bit done -

Painted:-

2nd top coat on a stack of bits

From this

And this

To this

And this

1st coat on top triple tree, tachometer mount and idiot dash

2 hours on stripping tank - no dints under paint - you flaming beauty!

More tomorrow.

dave500 · « **Reply #135 on:** May 23, 2014, 02:26:37 AM »

you can reuse those old shells,those discoloured marks wont matter,they aint gouged/scored or otherwise ruined,or just replace them all,thats what your benz man will say anyway?if I was pulling the 308 out of my HQ I rebuilt in about 92 id be replacing the shells though!good work on that seat base and tank.

MickB · « **Reply #136 on:** May 23, 2014, 02:44:21 PM »

Ok Dave, I'll number each bearing shell and photo each and send to you and give me your advice. I have no experience with bearings.

It'll save a stack of dough, David Silver wants around $150.

MickB · « **Reply #137 on:** May 23, 2014, 03:18:59 PM »

My painted wind chime

dave500 · « **Reply #138 on:** May 23, 2014, 09:10:31 PM »

modern art?

Stev-o · « **Reply #139 on:** May 24, 2014, 07:49:31 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on May 23, 2014, 09:10:31 PM

modern art?

I'd buy that. How much?

MickB · « **Reply #140 on:** May 25, 2014, 04:03:17 AM »

I was too quick to jump, I thought I was going well stripping the tank. I thought there were no dints, I've now found about 4 - 5 small dints and 1 large dint complete with 3 small holes filled with bog!

MickB · « **Reply #141 on:** May 25, 2014, 11:50:17 AM »

Cal great minds think alike.

rtbmrgl · « **Reply #142 on:** May 29, 2014, 05:30:46 PM »

Quote from: MickB on May 25, 2014, 04:03:17 AM

I was too quick to jump, I thought I was going well stripping the tank. I thought there were no dints, I've now found about 4 - 5 small dints and 1 large dint complete with 3 small holes filled with bog!

I discovered the same thing on my tank, knock the bondo out, drilled a hole and popped the dent out then brazed the hole.
My new neighbor was a little concerned when they found out I was going to weld on a gas tank.
Told him not to worry, I planned on welding the tank between our driveway so i didn't blow up my garage, heck don't want to damage my new tool box.

MickB · « **Reply #143 on:** June 02, 2014, 05:45:59 AM »

Some just don't understand priorities.

MickB · « **Reply #144 on:** June 02, 2014, 05:50:41 AM »

Tank is at metal fabricators bronzing the holes and he says he can get all the dints out - wait and see.

Tonight I just finished laceing front and back wheels, another step forward.

Pulled oil pumps apart, next clean them and reassemble.

Feeling motivated, bought a helmet so I can ride my daughter's Kwaka ZZR250.

Photos tomorrow. Now bedtime

MickB · « **Reply #145 on:** June 03, 2014, 01:25:51 AM »

Where exactly do I measured the oil pump cams. Can someone please advise where I'm meant to insert the .14 feeler gauge. The manual says replace the oil pump if more than .14, but doesn't advise where to measure.

I presume it's as the inner lobe goes past the outer lobe at their respective highest points (see photo)

MickB · « **Reply #146 on:** June 03, 2014, 01:31:41 AM »

In the photo the inner lobe is at about 6 o'clock and about to pass the rise of the outer lobe.

Is it at that point where the measurement takes place?

dave500 · « **Reply #147 on:** June 03, 2014, 01:48:41 AM »

no,more like the position at 9 oclock,even if its a little worn they still pump plenty.

MickB · « **Reply #148 on:** June 03, 2014, 11:55:05 AM »

Thanks Dave I tried there and I couldn't get a .14 feeler gauge in there.

dave500 · « **Reply #149 on:** June 03, 2014, 12:33:29 PM »

.35mm or .013 inches,sounds like yours is tight enough.

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 144799 times)