Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138475 times)

ricvicious · « **Reply #450 on:** November 08, 2014, 05:49:18 am »

Super impressed with this build MickB! Can't wait to see the final product. I just picked up a 71' 500 and am looking to restore it to an (almost) original state. Most of the bike is in tact with the exception of the exhaust. Maybe I'll get lucky and find one that won't cost me an arm and a leg. Either way, just wanted to say how impressed I am with this project. Consider me subscribed!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #451 on:** November 08, 2014, 06:39:35 am »

Great job on the seat. Everything looks so factory fresh.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #452 on:** November 08, 2014, 06:42:54 am »

Mick,

The level of work here is producing a concourse restoration. Amazing job!

Are you building this purely as a showpiece or to ride it, too.

MickB · « **Reply #453 on:** November 08, 2014, 11:35:53 am »

Thank you gentlemen for your comments and encouragement. It's still a fair way off. I don't think it's concourse, if it was that I'd be getting more professionals to do work, but I'm doing it on the cheap.

I'm pleased however after getting a pile of parts its staring to come together.
I'm a amateur at this, if you look closely you can see the paint was done by a plodder, however in the overall its not looking too bad.
Cb750 I'm going to ride it,

Ricv good luck with your 500,

Cal I had no idea about dimples on the bottom fork cap, but I knew about dimples on the bottom.

calj737 · « **Reply #454 on:** November 08, 2014, 12:06:49 pm »

Courtesy of SohRon's build:

MickB · « **Reply #455 on:** November 08, 2014, 02:44:39 pm »

Thanks Cal, yes thanks I also referred to SohRon's "the Oracle" (only mention his name in hushed tones) build (many many times over the months) yesterday, but dimples I'll look closer. I also have been given the incorrect dust seal for the front wheel, so need a correct one.
The guards are/ have been at the chromers for months, they needed a lot of metal work and when they came back to him he was disgusted at the sloppy workmanship and sent them back.
They took off the wiring tunnel on the back guard to fix a dint and then re welded the tunnel back again, these will be the most expensive parts on the bike, it would have been cheaper to get replicas from David Silver, but too late now.
I'm told I should have them back in a few weeks, after this I'm happy to wait and not rush Ultimate Shine as he's done a fantastic job.

MickB · « **Reply #456 on:** November 12, 2014, 07:54:06 pm »

Does this look right?

bryanj · « **Reply #457 on:** November 12, 2014, 11:53:52 pm »

Looks like it has been undone previously then retightened and re staked

MickB · « **Reply #458 on:** November 13, 2014, 01:59:39 am »

Thanks man

MickB · « **Reply #459 on:** November 15, 2014, 11:11:20 am »

Got the barrels and head on after much difficulty getting the cam chain onto the cog.

Next finish with the selectors and clutch.

To hot to work 109 in the shade on Friday afternoon.

Saturday picked up the front axle and the 2 caliper bolt heads after chroming at Ultimate Shine, looks great. A mate turned up and helped me get the brake lines installed, I'd bought a new hard line from the calipers and that needed a bit of easing in to make it fit neatly into the join where the rubber grommet goes in its little cradle.

Bootsey · « **Reply #460 on:** November 15, 2014, 02:37:28 pm »

Coming along nicely Mick!

MickB · « **Reply #461 on:** November 15, 2014, 03:08:58 pm »

Thanks mate

MickB · « **Reply #462 on:** November 16, 2014, 09:29:27 pm »

Question. What stops the speedo gear on the front wheel from turning. The book says the torque for the front axle nut is 33 - 40lbs. If you tighten it to that point the speedo gearbox locks up?

bryanj · « **Reply #463 on:** November 17, 2014, 12:13:00 am »

If the speedo gearbox locke solid when the nut is tight something is put together wrong or the gearbox is knackered

MickB · « **Reply #464 on:** November 17, 2014, 12:22:35 am »

Thanks Bryan but I fully reco'd the speedo gearbox it works perfectly.

It all fits perfectly, to me the wheel spins ok and the speedo cogs turn ok.

calj737 · « **Reply #465 on:** November 17, 2014, 04:54:03 am »

The portion of the wheel hub the speedo "locks to" and the gear itself allow the axle to spin upon the bearings and thus the speedo doesn't actually rotate. Everything around it does, except the axle of course.

MickB · « **Reply #466 on:** November 17, 2014, 07:56:08 am »

Thanks Cal, Basically the speedo box outer casing just locks onto the fork, as I have done. The two inner teeth lock onto the gearbox retainer.
The speedo cable is spinning perfectly.

The axle nut is really just nipped up and the whole thing is locked in place by the collars at the base of the forks as shown in the photo.

My original question was when the axle nut was tightened to the torque spec it locked the speedo gear up tight against the retainers on the wheel.

calj737 · « **Reply #467 on:** November 17, 2014, 12:47:53 pm »

Yes, but the bearings inside tracks the hub rotation, and should not interfere with the wheel spinning. Are we declaring the same thing? Or am I missing your point??

MickB · « **Reply #468 on:** November 17, 2014, 02:23:26 pm »

I think we're saying the same thing, but I'll put a video clip on to show what I mean.

bryanj · « **Reply #469 on:** November 18, 2014, 07:22:01 am »

The steel part in the gearbox should touch the bearing inner so that the spindle, bearing inners and gearbox work as all one unit whilst the gears in the gearbox and the wheel hub etc spin round. If the gearbox outer is locking to the hub there is a problem, possibly with bearing spacers

MickB · « **Reply #470 on:** November 18, 2014, 09:44:55 am »

I'll pull the wheel off again and make sure. Thanks Bryan

MickB · « **Reply #471 on:** November 20, 2014, 08:55:49 pm »

Selectors in place, looks ok, can someone confirm.

MickB · « **Reply #472 on:** November 21, 2014, 01:54:44 am »

Clutch on and cover.

Neutral switch installed, is it correct? Looks ok to me.

All this in 105°F/ 41.5°C, sweating like a dog.

Ordered the seal and O ring for the tachometer drive, still available must be used in plenty of other Hondas.

MickB · « **Reply #473 on:** November 26, 2014, 12:50:10 pm »

Went to put the cam cover on only to find 2 threads are stripped, I'd never thought to check them before assembly, heli coil today.

Here's a quick look at the cover on and I thought I had to break up the silver with some black highlights.

Note the exhaust stud not been re- zinced, it stands out like the proverbials. I think I'll get it re-zinced if I can't find some chromed acorn nuts to cover its unsightly self.

calj737 · « **Reply #474 on:** November 26, 2014, 01:50:59 pm »

Those studs will barely show, but I'd use stainless or new zinc nuts and washers. Threat the studs with a little penetrating oil, a wire brush, then some AntiSieze. Good to go...

Just remember to install your exhaust gaskets

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138475 times)