Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 158363 times)

MickB · « **Reply #650 on:** June 11, 2015, 01:28:41 AM »

I've started the wrapping process.

bryanj · « **Reply #651 on:** June 11, 2015, 09:10:46 AM »

Personaly I would get everything working first just in case there is a bad connection somewhere

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #652 on:** June 11, 2015, 11:00:22 AM »

Quote from: MickB on June 11, 2015, 12:00:00 AM

Is this correct?
It looks like yours OTP.

I'll take a look at mine for you when I get home from work and post a picture for you Mick.

MickB · « **Reply #653 on:** June 11, 2015, 12:54:49 PM »

BJ thanks that's a good idea, but I checked I had continuity (power went from one end of the wire to the other) in all the wires prior to wrapping.
I hope it's still working after wrapping.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #654 on:** June 11, 2015, 03:41:52 PM »

Here you go Mick, pictured left on the solenoid is the connection coming off the starter. On the right side is the positive lead to the battery as well as the fuses connection. I think I wrote that backwards yesterday when I posted pictures (sorry it was right after I woke up) but yours appears to be correct to me. I'll go back and add an edit to my post from yesterday morning.

MickB · « **Reply #655 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:58:40 PM »

I reckon you're spot on OTP.

MickB · « **Reply #656 on:** June 12, 2015, 12:47:03 AM »

Does it matter which wire goes on the flasher unit? Black and grey.

Tomorrow electrics on the bike.

bryanj · « **Reply #657 on:** June 12, 2015, 03:27:57 PM »

I does but you wont damage anything if they are wrong, just wont work

MickB · « **Reply #658 on:** June 12, 2015, 03:29:16 PM »

Too easy. Thanks.

MickB · « **Reply #659 on:** June 12, 2015, 09:24:07 PM »

Electrics in place and battery hooked up.

I wanted to trial the starter motor which I know is fine (had it spin before under power) - nuttin, not a cracker!

Could the solenoid be shot?

I've pulled the starter out and I can't get it to spin even when I connect it straight to the battery! Going to see if it works on an emergency battery pack designed for jump starts.

I'm positive all the wiring is correct as I followed each colour to its corresponding colour and where they meet at the connectors on the plate.

Any advice?

BJ looks like I should've left the amalgamating wrap off as you suggested.

bryanj · « **Reply #660 on:** June 14, 2015, 01:52:20 AM »

Does the solenoid "Click" when you push the button?

Instead of taking the starter out just put the jump pack to ground(neg) and the starter wire at solenoid(pos)

If starter spins then and solenoid clicks could be bad connector bar inside

MickB · « **Reply #661 on:** June 14, 2015, 03:30:44 AM »

Hey BJ I think it's a bad earth but I've pulled the starter just to check it's working properly (it was when I restored it), I'll know more in the next few days.

MickB · « **Reply #662 on:** June 15, 2015, 01:24:02 AM »

Good news the starter is in good condition and works fine, next check on the earth and the solenoid.

bryanj · « **Reply #663 on:** June 15, 2015, 02:15:09 AM »

The starter need to ground via the big wire at the engine plate ---thats why you need to take the paint off, the loom grounds via a small ring terminal up by the coil mounts so you need to remove paint there as well

MickB · « **Reply #664 on:** June 15, 2015, 02:18:51 AM »

Thanks BJ, I remember taking the paint off prior to the engine install and also where it grounds at the coils.
I'll remove the engine mount and coil area again and double check to ensure a good contact.

bryanj · « **Reply #665 on:** June 16, 2015, 01:18:33 AM »

You have a multimeter just do a resistance check

MickB · « **Reply #666 on:** June 16, 2015, 01:21:09 AM »

Good idea, I just bought a new (better, multimeter about an hour ago) I'll look on YouTube to see how to do the test. The old meter didn't do continuity with a buzzer.

I also bought a larger connector for the earth lead from the battery to frame, the old one was too small.

bryanj · « **Reply #667 on:** June 16, 2015, 11:00:53 PM »

If you set your meter to measure volts on the 20 volt scale and put the black lead on the battery negative then the red lead to the battery pos to get a base reading you can then check at all the positive connections (dont forget to turn ign on after you checked at switch input) this will tell you if you have a bad connection as you shoild not loose more than 0.5 volt (and that is a lot) at any point.

To check your grounds get the base voltage and then leave the red on the pos terminal anf put the black to the ground cable then engine case, agin there should not be a lot of difference.

You can also do resistance checks BUT NOT with a battery in circuit or your meter may go bloie

MickB · « **Reply #668 on:** June 18, 2015, 02:48:33 AM »

BJ really appreciate the multimeter lesson.

MickB · « **Reply #669 on:** June 21, 2015, 11:50:56 AM »

Didn't have much time over the week end, however solenoid all good bridged the terminals and the starter mirror spun the engine. Had the 2 red wires on the wrong solenoid post, but no power to the loom. I'll have to check the wiring connections as there's no power except to the solenoid.
Finished the ground wire to the engine mount.
Pictures later.

MickB · « **Reply #670 on:** June 24, 2015, 12:59:43 AM »

Question: What is the gauge of the red wire going from the solenoid to the fuse? Also what is the gauge (I think it's 3-4mm) for the rest of the loom?

I'm thinking of totally rewiring the entire plate.

MickB · « **Reply #671 on:** June 24, 2015, 04:36:09 PM »

Pressssure, time is the issue, currently only getting a half day a week to work on it.
I think I'd be better off rewiring the plate as I have no power going to the loom.
Considering I've put new wiring through the whole bike it makes sense to rewire the plate to me.

I've done a continuity test on the plate and all good. I'll plug it in again and do some more tests.

MickB · « **Reply #672 on:** June 25, 2015, 06:27:42 PM »

Replaced some of the male and female connectors, tested continuity on all connections all test ok.

All wrapped up all continuity tests ok.

MickB · « **Reply #673 on:** August 08, 2015, 02:42:57 AM »

Well after being busy for the last 1 ½ months I'm back. Had another 3 hours today trying to make the 4 into 2 exhaust fit with no luck. Not a huge fan of 4 into 1 exhausts but I found this on eBay in Oz and its stainless, it seems like a good deal and anyway I just bought it.

So hopefully get back on track.

MickB · « **Reply #674 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:04:27 AM »

Hey Cal, I think the 4 into 2 I bought may have come from a 350 or 400, I was told it would fit a 500. Buyer beware.

The price is fantastic, stainless steel! Compare it to chrome.

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 158363 times)