Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138536 times)

MickB · « **Reply #775 on:** August 14, 2015, 04:45:35 am »

Yes all are going to be repainted.

MickB · « **Reply #776 on:** August 14, 2015, 09:33:28 pm »

One more job completed. The seat strap!, the strap reminds me of my school days, many and frequently by a sadistic bunch of frustrated non Christian brothers.

Question.

I think this is the problem why I have no power the the rest of the bike, the red wrap wire should be on the other solenoid post, shouldn't it?

calj737 · « **Reply #777 on:** August 15, 2015, 04:16:28 am »

If I am interpreting the picture correctly, the red wrap wire is on the starter motor post, which is only activated when the electric start is depressed. The solenoid being a relay, that power feed is interrupted until the contact is made. So if you have dependency on electrical functions of that wire without the solenoid involved, best to move it to the other side. Also, wired that way, it will only get power while the electric start button is being depressed.

MickB · « **Reply #778 on:** August 15, 2015, 02:34:20 pm »

Cal thanks but I don't understand your answer, looking at the photo the post on the right goes to the battery + terminal and the left to the starter, if I connect them left and right posts the starter spins.

Btw the fuse is ok.

All this is as a result of Ivan the Ace Mechanic not coming, he got caught up with a major problem on his customer's car.

I'm thinking the rest of the bike isn't getting power unless I move the red wrapped wire to the post where the battery wire is connected.

Btw I moved the red wire, still not working with the starter button, but either the tail or the brake light stays on (obviously to much tension on the switch), I turn the key and the idiot light flash on for a second. I must be on the right path if power is in the loom. I put a meter on the red wire where the ignition switch plugs in and I've got 12.97 volts at the plug.

The yellow/red from the solenoid
goes to the starter button which must be the connection between the left and right posts I presume, what's the black wire for?

Could the rectifier or regulator (tested ok prior to installation) be shot?

calj737 · « **Reply #779 on:** August 15, 2015, 06:26:05 pm »

Black wire at solenoid is power to the "relay". The Y/R is the ground on that switch coming from the handlebar.

You did the right thing in moving the red-wrap over, I tried to explain that. I'll try better next time.

At your key switch, you get 12.97 on RED, but what do you get on the back of the switch on BLK, BRN, and BR/WHT? These are the "switched" circuits and feed all the devices, components and lighting on your bike. If you're not getting power, I suspect the problem is at the key switch.

DH · « **Reply #780 on:** August 15, 2015, 06:49:58 pm »

Red wire= fused wire that supplies 12v. to the key switch
Black wire= Gets 12v when keyswitch is turned ON
Yel/red wire= goes to start button, where it gets grounded if the start button is pressed. This the wire that
activates the starter relay internally. when the relay is activated by this wire, it has the same effect as jumping the big terminals on the outside of the relay with a screwdriver.
Red/white wire= feeds 12v. to rectifier assy. It should always have 12v., regardless of keyswitch position, on or off.

viewing the relay as if it were a clock, and the small black wire comes out of the relay housing at the 6 o clock position, the LARGE relay terminal that connects the BATTERY + cable, red fused 12v, and red/wht going to rectifier, WILL BE ON THE RIGHT.
The STARTER CABLE mounts by itself on the LEFT.

Someone verify this please.....Ya .beat me cal

MickB · « **Reply #781 on:** August 16, 2015, 04:41:22 am »

Thanks that makes it clearer, your explanation was ok I just don't get electrics and the jargon.

MickB · « **Reply #782 on:** August 16, 2015, 11:26:55 am »

Thanks DH

MickB · « **Reply #783 on:** August 20, 2015, 12:56:26 am »

Still no luck with starter, horn works on accessory, brake light on with ignition on.

This is the starter button wires, where does green/red go? Wiring diagram stayed to earth?

MickB · « **Reply #784 on:** August 20, 2015, 01:13:55 am »

Found red wire pulled out of pin, power now to ignition.

calj737 · « **Reply #785 on:** August 20, 2015, 04:28:03 am »

Gr/Red is your Neutral switch coming from under left side crankcase cover.

calj737 · « **Reply #786 on:** August 20, 2015, 07:25:50 pm »

Mick - after our chat, I looked back through the diagrams. The right hand START switch you have is, I believe, a 550 model. If you look at the attached file, page 3, you'll see only that 550 model uses the Gr/R to the START switch. It is still your Neutral switch wire, but, on your bike, you may struggle to find a proper tie in to the factory harness if your harness is indeed a 500.

http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb500/service_manual/HSM500550_11.pdf

It's still not an explanation of your power issues, but just so you know its origin while you attempt to locate the other end of it.

MickB · « **Reply #787 on:** August 20, 2015, 11:17:28 pm »

Does anyone know how to wire a 550 the control switch to work with a 500? Same for the LH side.

Or, am I better getting the correct RH Control Switch?

I feel the later, but the first one'll be cheaper.

calj737 · « **Reply #788 on:** August 21, 2015, 04:05:56 am »

You don't need to swap the RH switch, just know that the Gr/Red wire from it gets abandoned and doesn't connect to the harness.

MickB · « **Reply #789 on:** August 21, 2015, 04:25:03 am »

After looking at the 500 and 550 wiring diagrams I'll go the correct control (Z1 had one on eBay). The problem is the starter button isn't grounding and it's a bit beyond me. I can just manage connecting the correct coloured wires together.

I can put the 550 RH control (unused) on eBay.

I know I have a 550 LH control but the wiring's straight forward, indicators, horn and hi/Lo beam.

Another 1st timer mistake.

I checked the wiring loom and it is a 500 loom.

calj737 · « **Reply #790 on:** August 21, 2015, 04:39:42 am »

The Y/R wire from the START button is the "ground" signal sent to the solenoid. At the solenoid, you should have a thin BLK also, that's the power to that "relay" when the Y/R is pressed, it completes the circuit of power (BLK-power, Y/R-earth) this lets the juice flow from the stud that connects to the battery POS (right side stud) to the Starter motor (left side stud).

If you have confirmed that the solenoid turns the starter motor, then you can easily test the START button. From the solenoid, disconnect the Y/R from the harness, and touch the bare end (male bullet connector) to frame ground (Key ON please). This should spin the starter motor (be sure bike is in NEUTRAL). If this activates the Starter, then somewhere between the switch housing and the solenoid the Y/R is incomplete.

At the housing, the end of the Y/R should have continuity to Ground with the housing fully installed. Meter set to "continuity" touch either probe end to the bare wire, and the other probe to the chassis. Get a tone? If so, move along through the harness repeating the trace of this Y/R wire. When you stop getting a tone, you'll know where along the path that the Y/R is disconnected or broken.

You can also perform a similar test on BLK. But this time you set your meter to 12v and ONLY the RED probe these the BLK wire. With Key ON, RED probe to BLK wire, Black probe to GROUND, do you get 12v? Check each connection after the headlight, at the solenoid, the BLK/WHT wire for the ignition coils, and so on.

Repeat this step (voltage) on Br/WHT. Br/WHT gets 12v from the key switch when turned 1 position and it feeds your auxiliary lighting functions.

You stated earlier that the Horn worked, but only in position 2 (aux or parking). It should also work in position 1 ( position 0 being OFF). If not, you have a wonky key switch I'm afraid.

Take your time reading through this, complete each step, then proceed patiently to the next. As long as your meter is set to 12vdc, you must only use the RED probe on the colored wire, and the BLACK probe on GROUND or solid GREEN.

MickB · « **Reply #791 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:06:50 pm »

The key to first notch I have power to the black wire at the ignition plug, coils have power, horn works, 2nd notch no power? Is the ignition switch faulty? It's brand new.

I ground the y/r wire from the solenoid and starter doesn't turn. If I short the posts the starter turns.

MickB · « **Reply #792 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:27:53 pm »

I think I also have a 550 LH Control Switch as the colours don't match the 500 colours. However I should be able to make them work by matching up where they're supposed to go I presume?

Here's the LH Control Switch

These are wires from the LH switch.

From the right here do the LtB, Br/B, R/Br, Y and Gr/W go?

These are plugged in, the left indicator is Y/W going into Orange and I have continuity , right indicator is B/W going into blue and I have continuity.

bryanj · « **Reply #793 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:46:01 pm »

I don't get on here much any more so i will help if i can and mail me direct on blj@blj.org.uk(never reply using reply key as i have several puters and the.org address goes to all)

On the RH switch check with your mutimeter if the yellow/red and green/red connect when the button is pushed. Also id there a lights on/off on it

On the LH swith check if there is just one or two wires to the horn button and what collour wire go to the dip switch.

With that info i can get both to work with the loom you have

MickB · « **Reply #794 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:51:27 pm »

BJ thanks for chiming in, yes, lights on/ off is on the switch. Do I use the 12V or continuity?

I'm wondering if I should join the G/R wires from the push button and the clutch together?

MickB · « **Reply #795 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:53:56 pm »

Push button Y/R and G/R show continuity.

MickB · « **Reply #796 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:29:05 pm »

Just noticed the fork boots have split (must've bought cheap rubbish), I've ordered new ones and'll drop the forks out to replace the boots. Any tips on correct fitting of boots apart from holes down and seams facing E/W?

calj737 · « **Reply #797 on:** August 27, 2015, 04:27:37 am »

Boots like to be supple when installing them. I use a small flat blade to pry them over the fork lower and then spin them onto the interlock notch. Keep the holes to the rear too, not just down.

calj737 · « **Reply #798 on:** August 27, 2015, 04:37:21 am »

Quote from: MickB on August 26, 2015, 08:06:50 pm

The key to first notch I have power to the black wire at the ignition plug, coils have power, horn works, 2nd notch no power? Is the ignition switch faulty? It's brand new.

You're BLK wire won't have power in position 2, but the BR and BR/WHT will. "Notch 2" is for roadside lighting should you need to have the tailight and indicators burning for safety.

Quote

I ground the y/r wire from the solenoid and starter doesn't turn. If I short the posts the starter turns.

Can you confirm how you did this?
Also, just to. Be clear:
At the solenoid, with the key in NOTCH 1, Can you please use your meter and determine the voltage at the small BLK wire that's adjacent to the Y/R?
And, with your meter set to "Continuity", determine if the bullet connect on the harness side has a path to chassis ground?

I'm looking at pictures from page 30 on your build, reply #734.

MickB · « **Reply #799 on:** August 27, 2015, 09:36:04 pm »

Cal I used a screwdriver across the solenoid posts.

News:

Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138536 times)

DH