Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138534 times)

MickB · « **Reply #800 on:** August 27, 2015, 10:24:16 pm »

Cal I have full 12.8v at the small black solenoid wire on notch 1.

Unplugging the small black solenoid wire, from the harness side is the small black wire I have continuity to earth.

calj737 · « **Reply #801 on:** August 28, 2015, 06:17:13 am »

Quote from: MickB on August 27, 2015, 10:24:16 pm

Cal I have full 12.8v at the small black solenoid wire on notch 1.

Unplugging the small black solenoid wire, from the harness side is the small black wire I have continuity to earth.

You need continuity to earth on Y/R from the solenoid and the harness. It may be necessary to push the START button when testing on the harness side as the push button switch completes that earth circuit.

MickB · « **Reply #802 on:** August 28, 2015, 04:55:36 pm »

Ok, plugged headlight in some wires touched, headlight flashed on for a second and no power! Found blown fuse, things are moving ahead.

MickB · « **Reply #803 on:** August 28, 2015, 06:08:45 pm »

I have continuity on the Y/R from the solenoid to the starter button when the button is depressed

calj737 · « **Reply #804 on:** August 28, 2015, 07:29:15 pm »

Then pushing the start button should spin the starter. You've got power in BLK, and path to earth in Y/R, and shorting the terminals energizes the starter motor, you should be in business.

MickB · « **Reply #805 on:** August 28, 2015, 10:49:57 pm »

I've got the idiot lights working - oil pressure, neutral and indicator.

Right front indicator flashes, rear doesn't flash, I think the rear maybe an earth problem.

Left flasher switch lights up both R and L front indicators? I think it's an issue with the switch, because if I back the switch off a fraction the L front indicator works, rear flasher doesn't maybe earth?

Foot brake light works.

Still no luck with the starter button.

calj737 · « **Reply #806 on:** August 29, 2015, 04:09:03 am »

where the Y/R meets the solenoid, unplug it from the harness. Then test continuity (not to earth) between the harness end and the START button Y/R. To do this, you'll have to locate the connection in the headlight where the Y/R exits the bars. If you have continuity to there, then test from that connection to the inside of the switch itself.

To do that, you'll have to unscrew the housing and get your probe to the backside, inside of the switch itself. Likely when you pulled the wires through the bar you have dislodged the wire from the contact. (This will be tedious and irritating as a forewarning). This is not an unusual occurrence when working with 40 year old wires and switches.

MickB · « **Reply #807 on:** August 29, 2015, 04:21:04 am »

Brand new loom and switches

calj737 · « **Reply #808 on:** August 29, 2015, 04:27:30 am »

still need to verify from head light to switch. Brand new, but recently installed and now not working. So whats that worth?

MickB · « **Reply #809 on:** August 29, 2015, 02:34:27 pm »

I get continuity when I depress the starter button?

calj737 · « **Reply #810 on:** August 29, 2015, 03:40:37 pm »

Quote from: MickB on August 29, 2015, 02:34:27 pm

I get continuity when I depress the starter button?

Where are you testing this from? As described above? And at all connection points?

MickB · « **Reply #811 on:** August 31, 2015, 11:41:36 pm »

How do I insert a photo from a Mac? When I hit the Insert Image icon all I get is

??

Can anyone help?

Bootsey · « **Reply #812 on:** September 01, 2015, 02:34:56 am »

If you're doing it straight from the computer, not a hosting website, use the "attachments" bar under the text box.

calj737 · « **Reply #813 on:** September 01, 2015, 05:57:54 pm »

Mick - to recap our chat:

Meter set to Continuity.
Red probe from meter placed on male end of Y/R wire disconnected from solenoid.
Black probe on chassis ground (upper motor mount bolt)
Press START button
This should give you a tone or signal of continuity to EARTH

If this does not work;
Make a temporary jumper from G/R at RH switch to EARTH.
Then retest Y/R wire without pressing START
Tone? If no tone, press START and determine whether it takes the completed G/R to EARTH to give you a ground signal to the solenoid.

Here's the trick as I said on the phone, we want to be certain that a "permanent"" grounding of the G/R wire does not short circuit the START button and connect Y/R always. If G/R is permanent ground and pressing START, then gives you continuity on Y/R, you're golden!

MickB · « **Reply #814 on:** September 11, 2015, 07:08:04 pm »

Well back after moving bedroom furniture, ripping up carpet for 3 bedrooms, landing and stairs. Visitors over the weekend, carpet layers on Monday, work got in the way also!

Cal your suggestion worked, plugged the Gr/ R wire into earth, pressed starter and it spins over.

After testing continuity the rear blinker mount (bought from Z1) doesn't ground. I removed the earth and ran it through the blinker stem and fixed it to the bulb housing screw, now I have earth.

I now have the horn, brake, rear light, starter working, the R blinker working and 3 idiot lights working correctly. But when I switch the L blinker on the R blinker comes on???

Left switch

I also still have 5 wires coming from the L switch control I can't find where to plug into? Br/W, Br/R (is this power or earth?), light blue, light Blue/ W and a dirty Yellow or is it orange?

Hi/ Lo beam switch, light green on right is horn.

Indicator switch

Condition of wires found in a NEW switch.

Wires from L switch control

calj737 · « **Reply #815 on:** September 12, 2015, 05:20:52 am »

Mick - in the LH switch, you've got the L and R indicator wires backwards.

Turn L - Orange/White (dingy Yellow wire in your unit)
Turn R - Blue/White

The "Brown" wires are always carrying current, for instance, Br/Red is headlight power from the fuse.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #816 on:** September 12, 2015, 05:49:36 am »

Quote from: MickB on September 11, 2015, 07:08:04 pm

I now have the horn, brake, rear light, starter working, the R blinker working and 3 idiot lights working correctly. But when I switch the L blinker on the R blinker comes on???

Mick,
I just thought of the reason for this. Could it be that it's because you're in Australia and the southern hemisphere that everything works upside down/backwards?

MickB · « **Reply #817 on:** September 13, 2015, 02:56:54 pm »

Thanks for the correct way, and the obvious upside down theory, why didn't I think of that!
That's why Jared Hayne and the 49'ers is turning them inside out with his unorthodox upside down style.

MickB · « **Reply #818 on:** September 16, 2015, 11:12:55 pm »

Good news is I have the headlight Lo/ Hi (including Hi beam idiot light)and taillight all working correctly.

Quote from: calj737 on September 12, 2015, 05:20:52 am

Mick - in the LH switch, you've got the L and R indicator wires backwards.

Turn L - Orange/White (dingy Yellow wire in your unit)
Turn R - Blue/White

The "Brown" wires are always carrying current, for instance, Br/Red is headlight power from the fuse.

Cal I see in the paper I've incorrectly written the L and R wiring colours, I've put them down on the wrong side, they are correct eg Orange is on the left side etc.

New clutch adjuster from CMSNL, 3 days from Holland!

MickB · « **Reply #819 on:** September 16, 2015, 11:55:48 pm »

Indicators aargh!

This is the flasher unit with only 2 spades, the wiring diagram shows 3 spades? Could this be the problem? If I take the Br/ Dark Blue wire and move it over to the Left Orange side the left indicator works fine,

But if I use the R Light Blue indicator switch the Left indicator goes and visa versa if I move the Br/ Dark Blue to the R side the

bryanj · « **Reply #820 on:** September 17, 2015, 09:42:48 am »

2 ire flasher just don't use the green wire, common on US 3 wire seems to be European model, the blue/white and orange/white are for the front running lights used in US along with twin filament bulbs and fittings if you have only single wire type just don't connect them

RAFster122s · « **Reply #821 on:** September 17, 2015, 01:39:42 pm »

Front markers from factory used two wires with ground through the metal body of flasher assembly/stalk/fork ears/forks/frame for ground path.
Aftermarket need the ground wire to function properly, normally.
The rears were usually just a turn signal so, they are one wire with ground in same manner as front.
David

MickB · « **Reply #822 on:** September 17, 2015, 04:21:39 pm »

Thanks boys but I think the issue is with having a 550 control. The 500 had only 3 wires coming from the indicator switch Grey, Orange and Sky Blue whereas the control I have has 6 wires (as best I can see) for the indicator and this is where in stumped.

Some wires I presume need to be either joined or discarded.

BJ any ideas? You mentioned a way to get a 550 switch work with the 500.

MickB · « **Reply #823 on:** September 17, 2015, 11:30:02 pm »

I put an earth wire in the front left indicator to take away the problem in case it was caused by a bad earth, it didn't work.

I turn on the left indicator and the right one comes on?!

I presume there must be a cross over in the wiring occurring somewhere to cause this?

I have 5 wires left from the LH Control. Could there be a cross over occurring in the switch itself?

Do some wires in the switch need to be cut out in order to replicate the 500 switch which only had 3 wires.

Any thoughts?

I'm stumped!

bryanj · « **Reply #824 on:** September 18, 2015, 01:36:40 pm »

The blue/white and the orange/white you leave unconnected, you should then have a grey, orange and blue, Orange to an indicator doubler in headlamp same with orange, grey is from flasher relay.

what is the sixth colour?

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138534 times)