Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138525 times)

MickB · « **Reply #825 on:** September 18, 2015, 11:42:49 pm »

BJ thanks for your reply, attached are photos that show the exact state of play.

Trust you can advise which wrist to slash.

Photo shows wiring left over from left switch control.

With the right indicator working with power from the Br/ Dark Blue wire, What powers the left indicator? If I put the Br/ Dark Blue wire over to the Orange left plug the left indicator works and not the right. It's like I'm missing the left indicator power wire.

Is or should the power coming from Blue (shows as Light Blue on the photo) wire from the control switch?

When I use the left indicator the right indicator cons on instead, could that be caused by a bad earth?

bryanj · « **Reply #826 on:** September 19, 2015, 06:19:08 am »

Brown/blue has nothing to do with the indicators disconnect it and insulate it, same with qrange/white and blue/white.

Blue from switch should connect to a multi connector with:-

Front indicataor
Idiot light
loom to rear

Same for orange

Grey goes to grey from indicator can

That should work OK, perhaps the brown/blue went the the 'orrible buzzer?

MickB · « **Reply #827 on:** September 19, 2015, 04:22:21 pm »

Bingo! You beauty, it's a goer.

BJ your blood's worth bottling!

MickB · « **Reply #828 on:** September 19, 2015, 05:08:08 pm »

BJ I was just thinking about how simple the solution was, blue, orange and grey. Exactly the same as the book, now why didn't I think of that? Dur!

I think I'll cut and paste your solution to Tips and Tricks so some other Neanderthal can make life easier for himself.

bryanj · « **Reply #829 on:** September 20, 2015, 05:56:59 am »

No problem, it just takes a bit more thinking about when its different bikes, different countries and not in front of you!!

MickB · « **Reply #830 on:** September 21, 2015, 12:22:35 am »

Quote from: calj737 on September 12, 2015, 05:20:52 am

Mick - in the LH switch, you've got the L and R indicator wires backwards.

Turn L - Orange/White (dingy Yellow wire in your unit)
Turn R - Blue/White

The "Brown" wires are always carrying current, for instance, Br/Red is headlight power from the fuse.

Cal you came close but no cigar.

MickB · « **Reply #831 on:** September 24, 2015, 04:06:23 am »

Replaced the cheap rubbish Asian fork boots with genuine Honda, a big difference in rubber thickness.

Rubbish boots, theses boots split and perished just sitting on the forks without and riding.

New boots located with holes pointing down and facing the rear.

Peeled off all the lacquer (POR Lacquer is rubbish, loses the shine and makes the alloy dark) from the forks and polished again.

MickB · « **Reply #832 on:** September 25, 2015, 02:58:12 am »

Polished all the stainless bolt heads

Stainless before and after

Stainless on the left

MickB · « **Reply #833 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:41:41 pm »

Could someone please advise the ID and OD and length of #13 please. I think the OD is about 15mm.

Also are there any rubber cushions between the rabbit ears and the headlight to stop scratching of the headlight?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #834 on:** September 26, 2015, 07:55:24 pm »

Don't understand if you are referring to the fork ears as rabbit ears. The headlight housing or headlight bucket or the actual headlight?

There is a rubber cushioning washer between the headlight bucket and the fork ears. There is a member who sells neoprene washers and a points cover gasket for a few bucks.

MickB · « **Reply #835 on:** September 27, 2015, 01:34:38 am »

Thanks Raf, the schematic doesn't show a rubber between the headlight bucket and the fork ears, but now I'll but one in.

MickB · « **Reply #836 on:** September 27, 2015, 01:36:21 am »

someone please advise the ID and OD and length of #13 please. I think the OD is about 15mm?

Don't worry as Honda Australia have them in stock along with the headlight setting collars.

Headlight nearly finished, sand, repaint and clear.

Then finish the tappet spacing, points timing, idiot light holder, tank and side covers then press the button.

It's taken 2 years, it's been enjoyable and occasionally frustrating.

MickB · « **Reply #837 on:** September 29, 2015, 03:59:49 am »

Installed the new Clutch Adjuster from CSMNL, very well made and fit perfectly.

calj737 · « **Reply #838 on:** September 29, 2015, 04:13:44 am »

What on earth shall you do after you finish this thing up and have an empty garage, Mick? Might be time to start looking for thinnest project candidate

MickB · « **Reply #839 on:** September 29, 2015, 04:14:50 am »

42 pages on the iPhone and still going.

MickB · « **Reply #840 on:** September 29, 2015, 11:31:39 am »

Still wondering about "thinnest project candidate", are you referring to my girth or the amount of pages in the build?

Next project I'm thinking of a black 1973 850 Norton.

calj737 · « **Reply #841 on:** September 29, 2015, 11:37:09 am »

Ha! Typo. Meant to say "the next" project

bryanj · « **Reply #842 on:** September 29, 2015, 10:37:23 pm »

If you think this one was in any way difficult run away from the Norton screaming!!!

When they were a current bike and all parts available it was amazing how many mechanics went sick if one was booked in for work

MickB · « **Reply #843 on:** October 01, 2015, 01:40:47 am »

Thanks Bryan for bursting the balloon. But I'm thinking there's always Colorado Norton to do the build and they'd be quicker than me.

Else and I'm seriously thinking a 1974 CB750.

I did own one (first brand new bike), lost my licence on my CB750 after being chased by the cops, they never caught me on the bike, I was over the blood alcohol limit by a factor of 4, doing 110mph up the 35 mph main road, their car couldn't catch me. Big mistake was going to a house of a mate and with 20 bikes in the front yard they took a stab in the dark I might be there, engine was pinging as it cooled down. Ruined a good day.

MickB · « **Reply #844 on:** October 01, 2015, 01:44:06 am »

Points gaps done, tappet clearances done, painting - some success some fail.

Needs fixing

Fail

Needs redoing

MickB · « **Reply #845 on:** October 02, 2015, 12:57:49 am »

Repainted the cam end caps, back to metal and POR Metal ready, painting both have come up great, lacquer tomorrow.

All tappet inspection caps on

Idiot light redone

Headlight in and all electrics going! Hooray, big thanks to Cal and BryanJ.

Looks like the battery needs recharging.

bryanj · « **Reply #846 on:** October 02, 2015, 03:45:39 am »

At least YOU can control whether the lights are on or off, not like the later switches!!

MickB · « **Reply #847 on:** October 02, 2015, 03:52:21 am »

I'm glad after sticking all the wiring in the headlight it still all goes.

Unfortunately just found both forks are leaking, my 2nd part of the restoration after the frame, don't remember putting in crush washers (schematics say special washer - I presume it's a crush).

calj737 · « **Reply #848 on:** October 02, 2015, 04:36:54 am »

Leaking onto the axle? Yup, theres a crush washer required under there. It will be required to remove the front wheel to access the socket screw. And a refill of your fork oil. Since your oil is fresh and new, catch it in a very clean container and measure the volume lost, then replace that instead of guessing how much you've lost.

Copper or aluminum crush washer by the way-

RAFster122s · « **Reply #849 on:** October 02, 2015, 07:38:04 pm »

I hope the POR15 uou are using is the Chassis Black product and not the rust coating. The later has to be top coated to prevent UV breakdown. It isn't stable by itself.
David

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138525 times)