Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145138 times)

MickB · « **Reply #825 on:** March 27, 2016, 05:30:46 PM »

I found the The Keihin carb model numbers Theyare 069A. Cal your chart says these are for a '75-'77 550 with 98/38 jets. I've jetted them 100/40, will they work ok or do I need to raise or drop the needles.

Or should I replace the jets with the 98/38 jet?

I'm running a stock air filter with oil filled foam filter (Uni) with 4/1 Delkevic exhaust with full baffles.

What jetting should I use? If I take out the baffles should I change the jets?

I've also a set of 4 627Bs, should I use them instead?

Any help would be much appreciated.

MickB · « **Reply #826 on:** March 27, 2016, 06:14:22 PM »

Thanks for the advise, no main jets in the others only idle jets 40s.

627Bs are pretty clean though.

MickB · « **Reply #827 on:** March 27, 2016, 06:26:43 PM »

I've also got another problem - electrical!

Idiot lights go on, can't get the starter to spin the engine, horn barely makes a sound, no lights or indicators.
I'm wondering if the battery is shot? I've had to recharge it many times. It's showing 12.9 volts.

Has the battery been sitting too long, shows voltage but under load dies in bum.

BTW I didn't have this problem until I've let it sit for 4 months!

MickB · « **Reply #828 on:** March 27, 2016, 07:31:07 PM »

It sometimes takes a while for the cogs to whir and the brain to engage.

I pulled the battery out of the ZZR and everything works fine.

A new battery is needed.

MickB · « **Reply #829 on:** March 28, 2016, 01:08:36 AM »

Good news filled the carbies with petrol, no leaks.

MickB · « **Reply #830 on:** March 29, 2016, 02:20:28 AM »

Well mr sarcastic, I think if I have these questions going through my little brain others may have the same questions running through their little brains also and it maybe of assistance. Most of us are amateurs at this and are bumbling our way through and hoping for some help from some of the brains trusts to help with practical advise.

But I do love intelligent conversations.

BTW I'm sitting thinking if I need to check the spacers between the wheel bearings and if the spokes need retuning.

MickB · « **Reply #831 on:** March 29, 2016, 05:24:08 AM »

Who's sensitive now, my last rave was firmly tongue in cheek.
I still enjoy an intelligent conversation though.

bryanj · « **Reply #832 on:** March 30, 2016, 09:52:31 PM »

Talking to yourself is fine, arguing with yourself is questionable, loosing the argument means a call for the men in the white coats.

PS first sign of madness is hair on the knuckles

Second sign is looking for it

MickB · « **Reply #833 on:** March 30, 2016, 11:20:02 PM »

Feels more like banging you head against a brick wall, it feels good when I stop.

MickB · « **Reply #834 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:11:14 PM »

Bled the front brake and its not releasing and it's keeping the wheel from turning.

I've undone the 2 bolts keeping the brake line connected and tried applying the brake and the piston is not grabbing and when I push the piston back it goes back easily. So I don't think it's the piston.

Could the brake pads need filing back a wee bit? It's all I can think of to fix it.

Or should I remove the nylon washer from behind the pad? Is the nylon washer causing it to be a bit proud?

Any suggestions.

Stev-o · « **Reply #835 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:14:59 PM »

Hey Mick....New pads? Some are painted on the side (on the metal) and are too tight a fit.
I've used a wire wheel to remove the paint.

MickB · « **Reply #836 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:38:18 PM »

Thanks Stev-o.

They're new pads I'd already sanded off the paint as the photo shows, only paint now is on the backside of the pad.

The only thing that makes sense to me is the floating pad is too thick.

Or is the aftermarket piston too long?

MickB · « **Reply #837 on:** March 31, 2016, 11:57:48 PM »

What is the depth of the chrome trim around the seat?
Does someone know?

bryanj · « **Reply #838 on:** April 01, 2016, 09:44:46 PM »

the brake problem is almost certainly the tiny hole in the master cylinder blocked, been discussed many times on the forum

riverfever · « **Reply #839 on:** April 02, 2016, 08:20:40 AM »

These are the same symptoms mine had when I rebuilt the caliper and had issues with the piston not retracting.

MickB · « **Reply #840 on:** April 02, 2016, 02:44:24 PM »

Thanks guys.

It's a brand new master cylinder, new woven brake lines, and I'm positive all return holes in the brake housing were clear when I rebuilt it.

I filed down the pads a bit more and it's freed up a lot. Brakes are now working and releasing fine, however.......

When I move the bike and lean it over to the left its harder to push, when it returns to vertical it's becomes easy again? Somethings not right.

Any ideas? Bearings?

BTW I spent yesterday polishing the whole bike, each spoke and nipple, chrome and alloy getting ready for riding.

Just waiting on getting some more zinc plating on the choke lever, I forgot to get plated originally. So had to pull them apart to get it out.

I'm really motivated to get it running quickly.

Any day now.

bryanj · « **Reply #841 on:** April 03, 2016, 09:09:36 AM »

Wheel bearings have been known to give the problem you state

MickB · « **Reply #842 on:** April 03, 2016, 03:53:00 PM »

BJ are saying the bearings are incorrectly installed, have they been damaged when I installed or do I have one not seated correctly?

bryanj · « **Reply #843 on:** April 03, 2016, 10:54:26 PM »

If the are new then either damaged on install or spacers/clamps not correct, is ther any play sideways at the rim with bike on centre stand and front elevated.

One other part that siezes up is the pivot pin on the caliper swinging arm

MickB · « **Reply #844 on:** April 04, 2016, 02:45:55 PM »

Thanks, I'll check out all suggestions, my hunch is the bearings and the internal spacer.

MickB · « **Reply #845 on:** April 08, 2016, 07:14:32 PM »

Still to check out the front end. But I got back some zinced parts for the carbies.

The schematic doesn't show anything but is there a felt washer behind the spring in where the choke lever goes into the carby body? There's a little recess in the carby body

What is the Special washer #14?

MickB · « **Reply #846 on:** April 12, 2016, 07:20:51 PM »

Anyone regarding the carby question?

MickB · « **Reply #847 on:** April 13, 2016, 05:24:21 PM »

Can someone chime in regarding the carby question regarding #14 special washer and are there other washers in the recesses?

I'm holding off putting the carbs back on until I'm sure of the correct way, the schematic is unclear to me.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #848 on:** April 13, 2016, 07:34:02 PM »

If it is a felt seal then it is a heavy felt, not upholstery or run of the mill felt. McMaster Carr carries a hard felt and Iam sure you can probably find it elsewhere if Honda cannot source the felt seal. It is often used on carb shafts through the body and it is usually greased to seal and block dirt from getting into the joint causing carb body wear. They can often have a very thin aluminum or steel washer over them.
BUT, I don't know if this washer is felt or other material. I have not needed to tear my carbs apart to that level.

A direct PM to Harrisluv can yield an answer. He rebuilds them for others. Let him know the carb body # you are dealing with...

Often specific questions like this can be answered directly by posting a question in a new thread. Sometimes you miss a reply on a thread and sohc4 forum doesn't notify you about an update but once. Until you visit that thread again, then the notify is reset...

MickB · « **Reply #849 on:** April 13, 2016, 08:11:14 PM »

Thanks RAF, I'm thinking of using an O ring in place of the felt washer.

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145138 times)