Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138542 times)

MickB · « **Reply #625 on:** March 02, 2015, 06:06:02 pm »

DH thanks mate, I have the stator harness also with the 9 pins, as said I'm unsure of the best course, first prize would be the male and female 9 pin blade style plug, that's my preference but I can't find a replacement plug that size.

MickB · « **Reply #626 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:08:52 pm »

I do however have all the plugs for pins and I think it would be better if it was all the same. It's become clear - all pins.
The '73 had pins, why didn't I check this first? My engine number is CB500E- 2…, so it would've been released in Oz in '73.

MickB · « **Reply #627 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:16:46 pm »

Another issue, the clutch adjuster still has the old ball bearing in it and I can't get it out as the opening is very very slightly burred. Do I need to get it out, I do have a new ball?
The ball is trapped but the opening in the adjuster doesn't interfere with the clutch rod, there's plenty of room for it.

Also how much grease should I put around the adjuster where it slides into the case?

bryanj · « **Reply #628 on:** March 03, 2015, 04:09:11 am »

If the ball is loose enough to turn its OK and as to grease quantity LOTS. If the engine number starts with a 2 it should have blade type connectors

MickB · « **Reply #629 on:** March 03, 2015, 05:03:57 pm »

Quote from: MickB on March 02, 2015, 10:08:52 pm

The '73 had pins, why didn't I check this first? My engine number is CB500E- 2…, so it would've been released in Oz in '73.

BJ my engine starts with 2 but was probably registered here in Oz in '73, what about the Workshop picture? It's confusing.

bryanj · « **Reply #630 on:** March 04, 2015, 12:24:30 am »

Don't believe the pictures in parts books, they use the same one for years and just change the numbers

MickB · « **Reply #631 on:** March 04, 2015, 02:31:08 am »

They sure fooled me.

MickB · « **Reply #632 on:** March 06, 2015, 08:36:03 pm »

Just a question is the cam notch facing (backwards -towards the carbies), in the right direction? Particularly for timing and when I do the tappets.

Bootsey · « **Reply #633 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:22:31 pm »

Hey Mick,
Doesn't matter which way the notch faces, as long as the marking on the advancer is lined up with the slot in the case & the notch is parallel to the head.
Rotate the crank 360 & the notch should face forward and be parallel, and again the notch & advancer markings should be lined up.
Then to do the valve clearances, you need to use a table in the manual to figure out which tappets to do when.

Good info & explanation here
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=140288.msg1589150#msg1589150

MickB · « **Reply #634 on:** March 06, 2015, 11:53:41 pm »

Thanks Bootsey, I thought that was the case after reading your build.

MickB · « **Reply #635 on:** March 08, 2015, 10:38:42 pm »

Peeled off all the POR Lacquer which dulled the covers down, pulled off the clutch and checked the plates, all plates are in spec and reinstalled with the correct orientation of the corks, and installed the clutch rod, and - drum roll -all gears were found easily, clutch is working well.

Gear lever looks a little low, will readjust after sitting on the bike and the cover needs re polishing to get my greasy hand prints off.

The side stand looks like it should sit in further, it's not bent.

calj737 · « **Reply #636 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:31:08 am »

Looks like you're missing the grease fitting on the left side cover, Mick?

MickB · « **Reply #637 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:33:19 am »

Cal, well picked, you must get a magnifying glass out and check out the photo, yes I have to get a push in one not a screw in one.

calj737 · « **Reply #638 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:34:48 am »

I have a shooter's eye; look small, see small

Besides, your efforts deserves all the attention to the small details you've undertaken to achieve such a beauty!

MickB · « **Reply #639 on:** March 09, 2015, 11:09:39 am »

Dead Eye Dick.

calj737 · « **Reply #640 on:** March 09, 2015, 12:00:00 pm »

Just Mr Dick to you...

MickB · « **Reply #641 on:** March 09, 2015, 02:58:24 pm »

I remember you spotting a tank at the rear of a photo and asking about it, and none of us saw it, we only saw the object of the discussion.

MickB · « **Reply #642 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:04:41 pm »

Question. I can't see on my frame anywhere on the neck where an ID Plate was riveted only the frame number stamped into the neck.

Did the frame have an ID Plate?

My frame's serial number starts with CB500 1….

What do you reckon, have the serial numbers been tampered with? They look a bit dodgy to me, however, I did buy it from a reputable dealer.

calj737 · « **Reply #643 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:16:21 pm »

Looks original. Vin plate should have been on right side opposite the stamp.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #644 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:33:04 pm »

The 550 and 750 VIN plates are riveted in place by 2 holes on the right side of the frame. I'm not sure if the 500s use rivets to fasten in the VIN plate.

MickB · « **Reply #645 on:** March 09, 2015, 06:00:43 pm »

Cal just on that seal on the 550, I don't think it was lipped on my 500 as I remember, however it wasn't OEM. The lip doesn't show on CSMNL

Should I be concerned?

calj737 · « **Reply #646 on:** March 09, 2015, 08:01:46 pm »

It is lipped on the 500/550. I just put one on my 500 motor. If it's in place already, let it be, otherwise you're splitting the cases to replace it.

My machinist pointed out my inferior OEM one and advised me to replace it before we did final assembly. Now, my 500 motor is a fire breather so for a stock, gentleman's ride, may not be an issue.

As for Kev's circumstance, I think his seal blew due to the same reason: HiPo goodies under the skin. Brent came along to say that seal isn't lipped, but that's not the same one (his is shift shaft, I was referring to primary shaft behind sprocket).

MickB · « **Reply #647 on:** March 09, 2015, 08:32:01 pm »

Thanks Cal, BTW would it be able to be replaced using a feeler gauge to help the lip into place?

calj737 · « **Reply #648 on:** March 10, 2015, 04:38:56 am »

The shift shaft doesn't have a lip according to Brent, so if not, then a gentle tucking in with feelers would work. Seems he also recommend a dab of RTV and a super clean surface.

The primary shaft with a lip requires a split of the cases.

bryanj · « **Reply #649 on:** March 10, 2015, 08:53:22 am »

That frame number stamping looks genuine to me and was originaly BUILT in April 1971. Only US bikes at that time had vin plates so if it has been imported from elswhere there will be no holes for the rivets. Replica vin plates can be obtain from a man in France and are very good if you think you need one PM me and i will send you an Ebay Link

The shifter seal has no lip and is just pushed in--carefully so as not to damage it on the splines

The output shaft seal also does not have a lip BUT is so tight in the cases the only safe was of fitting is with cases split.

The only lipped seal on the 500 is the crank seal behind the point and that cannot be fitted without splitting cases

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138542 times)