Topic: 1977 CB550 Wiring: how to bypass starter and magnetic switch?

[jorwesflow]

I am in the process of rewiring everything. I am basically done, but I just made the decision to bypass the starter and have the bike kick-only. This is for a few reasons:
- I have a 4-cell Antigravity battery that just can't handle cranking the starter—at least long term.
- I want to free up as much space in the custom battery/electrics tray I have, i.e. remove the starter magnetic switch and other unnecessary wiring.
- Removing the starter lightens the bike (negligible)
- Kicking the bike over gets mad ladies. That's why I'm 30 and never married...

So I've stared at the wiring diagram and just can't figure out what I'm allowed to remove here. Rather than go trial-error-mode on electronic stuff and fry something, I'd like to do it right the first time.

So here are my questions:

1. If I remove the magnetic switch, do I just join R and R/W together?

2. What about the two other wires coming from the mag switch? Y/R and G/R. Join them together as well? G/R runs to that tiny two-prong rectifier.. not sure what that one does.

3. Does this mean I can use a higher gauge wire on the battery—like 10-12—instead of the bulky 6?

Anything else I should think about on this?

[Bru-tom]

So here are my questions:

1. If I remove the magnetic switch, do I just join R and R/W together?

2. What about the two other wires coming from the mag switch? Y/R and G/R. Join them together as well? G/R runs to that tiny two-prong rectifier.. not sure what that one does.

3. Does this mean I can use a higher gauge wire on the battery—like 10-12—instead of the bulky 6?

i have just finished doing mine, i kept my magnetic starter switch and replaced the ancient regulator with something a quarter in size. my custom box is around 45mm deep and fits under my seat and you can just see it poking out below the frame. Here is a basic pic, it is more packed with stuff now, but if you remove the plugs it free's up a ton of space.



regarding the wire joining to eliminate the mag switch, it makes sense to me to just bypass is and connect the red and red/white together. the red/white comes from the rectifier and charges the battery. There is also a plain red that is also joined to the magnetic switch and goes to the ignition key switch.

the green/red are basically a safety circuit for the starter, you should be able to remove it too. I would bypass all green/red connections. they will not affect the operation of the ignition circuit. the only ones to effect the ign circuit is the black/white which comes from the kill switch.

The yellow/red the connection from the starter button. the other side of it comes from ign (black). i would try eliminate as much of the yellow/red and green/red.

[jorwesflow]

the green/red are basically a safety circuit for the starter, you should be able to remove it too. I would bypass all green/red connections. they will not affect the operation of the ignition circuit. the only ones to effect the ign circuit is the black/white which comes from the kill switch.

The yellow/red the connection from the starter button. the other side of it comes from ign (black). i would try eliminate as much of the yellow/red and green/red.

I don't want to eliminate LG/R so as to keep functionality of the Neutral indicator light. And LG/R is on of the wires that connects to that safety circuit... I think I can figure this out. I'm just running out of space in my box quick.

Where did you put your battery?

[Bru-tom]

yes, the light green/red does come from your neutral switch, you could run it directly to the neutral indicator as far as i understand. It is only another point to make sure is activated (bike must be in neutral) to be able to activate the starter.

the battery is something im undecided on. i want to use a lithium one as its size is a quarter of the original and much more powerful. so i have not made an enclosure as of yet. i will most likely fit it behind the motor, and below the swingarm once i do get one. but it needs to be one that can lay on its side due to obvious reasons

edit to add, the neutral switch is ground operated, so you will need a ign to complete the circuit to get the indicator to work. The indicator basically has a fixed positive (blk) and when the bike is in neutral, it sends the ground to the indicator globe to switch it on.

[jorwesflow]

edit to add, the neutral switch is ground operated, so you will need a ign to complete the circuit to get the indicator to work. The indicator basically has a fixed positive (blk) and when the bike is in neutral, it sends the ground to the indicator globe to switch it on.

Is the ground not taken care of by the neutral switch itself?

[Bru-tom]

yes, thats what i said. its got power to it and only when the neutral switch is in neutral does it complete the circuit.

[TwoTired]

1. If I remove the magnetic switch, do I just join R and R/W together?

Yes.  At the battery POS terminal.

2. What about the two other wires coming from the mag switch? Y/R and G/R. Join them together as well? [/quote]
No, insulate them so they can electrical touch nothing.

G/R runs to that tiny two-prong rectifier.. not sure what that one does.

It's function is part of starter safety operation.  It keeps the neutral lamp from coming on when the clutch lever is pulled in.

3. Does this mean I can use a higher gauge wire on the battery—like 10-12—instead of the bulky 6?

Yes, preferably 10.  But the real answer related is the total amperage load you will be placing on the battery and how much air is going pass over the wire to keep it and the insulation cool.