Author Topic: wrestling with the starter switch  (Read 1392 times)

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Manny

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wrestling with the starter switch
« on: August 27, 2006, 07:23:55 PM »
So I've narrowed the starter problem down to the switch. I went to remove it and see if it can be fixed and....I can't get it out of the control housing. The housing seems to be held on by two things - the throttle cables and the ignition switch wiring passing into the handlebar. BTW it's a '76 CB400F, red - the fastest color!

I can't find any directions for removing it (in the FAQ, Honda manual, or the Haynes manual) other than: "Disconnect the throttle cables A and B from the carburetor cable stay," from the Honda service manual. I looked at where the cables hook onto the carbs and can't see how to disconnect them as they are a "round peg in a round hole" with an opening smaller than the peg. I can't slide the peg sideways because the cable is in the way, and I can't lift the cable perpendicular to the hole (to allow me to slide the peg out) because it is too tight in the groove.

I'm sure there has to be a better way to get this thing off than to remove the tank and get dirty with the throttle cables at the carbs...
...but I just can't figure it out. Maybe it'll be obvious once I'm over my head cold, but in case it's not do you guys have any helpful suggestions?

I found the switch listed by a Honda dealer for $100 USD and am not able to pay that much for it. Any suggestions or alternate sources?

Oh, and the clear plastic switch cover inside the control housing is broken. I tried to remove it to attempt to get to the switch inside the housing and found that with age it had turned yellow and broken. Is this important?

Thanks alot, and here is a gratuitous 1976 CB400F pic:

Offline Roach Carver

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2006, 07:33:46 PM »
On a 750 I take off the tank and remove the tension on the cables with the adjustment nut. then remove the cables from the carbs. this will give some slack. once that is done you undo the cables from the throttle tube. this should give adequate slack to work on the switch. That is if it is like my 750. ;)

Manny

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2006, 07:41:30 PM »
That sounds about right. I hesitate on that method because 1) readjusting the throttle cables sounds like a pain and, 2) we just filled the tank and I don't want to hold it up with one hand while I mess with the silly cables with the other. I guess that's probably the best method though.  :'(

Offline Roach Carver

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2006, 07:44:15 PM »
undo the fuel line and take the tank off. You will go nuts trying to work under it. the cables are not that bad.

Manny

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2006, 07:58:39 PM »
I do all the work on the back porch so the house fills up with gas fumes if I do that. Guess I'll just have to buckle down and do it. After closing up the house, and getting over my cold.

Thanks.

Offline flatblack

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2006, 08:28:16 PM »
Manny:

I have the same bike; same color, too.  Replacing the right side switch was one of the first things I had to do to it once I got it home.  Bite the bullet and remove the tank. Even full, it's not hard.

1. Raise the bike onto the centerstand. Turn off the petcock; remove the fuel line from the petcock. A little fuel will drop out of the line. Not much.

2. Open the seat. Standing on the left of the bike, grab the rear tab of the tank with your right hand and pull it up a bit. With your left hand, grab the front of the tank and wiggle the tank left and right a bit, apply rearward pressure. It will come off the front rubber mounts.

3. Pull it up and back to clear the triple tree. Using both hands, firmly grab the tank and pull it free of the rear mounting rubber. Put it in a safe place.

4. With two 10mm open end wrenches, loosen the locknuts on the throttle cables above the carb rack. Remember which cable (top or bottom) has the half-moon tab on it (I forget). It's important to get tham back the same way, and at the same adjustment.

5. Once the cable ends are free from their mounts, gently push them toward the front of the bike. This will give you the slack you need.

It would also be a good idea to get some slack in the wiring. Thusly:

With the tank off, look on the left side of the frame, just behind the forks and slightly below and in front of the coils. There's a junction of two or three wire bundles. The smaller diameter of the two, leading from the forks, is the bundle connected to the right switch. Don't unplug anything; just "unarrange" the bundles so you have some slack in the wiring.

With all of that done (it sounds a lot worse than it is -- at least the second time you do it...) you should have plenty of slack at the throttle to do your magic. Using a can of spray lube with a tube on it to aim some lubricant into the handlebar where the wire bundle enters at the throttle and where it exits at the handlebar mounts can make this a lot easier.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse, except for the tank: Lower the tank's front onto the front rubber mounts first, then gently push it home. With your left hand, raise the rear tab; with your right, stretch the rear rubber mount over the tab.

Reinstall the fuel line, turn on the petcock and go ride.

HTH...

fb
'76 CB400F
'78 CB750K
'04 CBR600F4i
'76 Yamaha RD400C
'79 Yamaha RD400F Daytona Special
'84 Yamaha RZ350
Dirt bikes?  Sure...

Manny

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Re: wrestling with the starter switch
« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2006, 08:48:16 AM »
flatblack - you rock! Thanks.