Thanks Johnie, I wasn't sure about replating, but replacement parts were just awful looking so I caved and started looking for a local guy too. Few miles west of Chicago, there's a guy named Mike at Calco Plating, who made me an offer I couldn't refuse despite the cost. Basically $1200 for everything chrome on the bike (except the pipes and rims), down to washers. Mind you, this deal is basically you get what you pay. I will post some pix when I do the unpacking and compare. I tore open the fenders and treated the underside with an Eastwood coating, and at least on the outer surface, they look good as new. He taped up the underside so they didn't get plated, but the tank ate away a lot of rust, so I used the undercoating to fully stop it where it is.
Edit: everything but the pipes and rims.