Topic: APE Air Filters

[KrautKoffin]

I know there are a ton of people on here that hate the idea of running pods, but my bike came with pods already.  Has anyone ran these on a 77 cb750? I'm running stock PD carbs and a 4-1 kirker and want to make sure my jetting is good. I read that one way to run pods correctly was to restrict some air flow using tape, which will help keep it off the lean side. Anyone have any tips?

Thanks,
Jordan

[thirsty 1]

One thing before you start jetting. Be sure you've done a complete tune up ie: valves, timing, cam chain tension, plugs, electrical tip top. I've done circles because I didn't make sure I had all else in good shape.

[KrautKoffin]

One thing before you start jetting. Be sure you've done a complete tune up ie: valves, timing, cam chain tension, plugs, electrical tip top. I've done circles because I didn't make sure I had all else in good shape.

Thanks for the tip!

[bjbuchanan]

The tape thing is usually a bandaid to restrict air while you are working to get an airbox. Did it to a friends kz

I still recommend getting an airbox because it is a lot less tuning work and effort and there really isn't the supposed huge power increase. If you go with pods say something like 42 pilot, 120(+) main, richer needle clip. The accelerator pump will change your pilot jet needs tho. The necessary jets will probably cost a little more than an airbox setup

[BobbyR]

Some get Pods working well, but it is a lot of work as was said.

[Terry in Australia]

The PD carbs were used so that they would pass ever increasingly more restrictive EPA tests, so they were super lean at idle, with accellerator pumps fitted to help mid-range accelleration. To make 'em work with pods, you need to run big jets.

If your bike is running fine with pods already fitted, then someone's done you a favor and already sorted the jetting. If it's jetted too lean it'll be a #$%* to start, if it's jetted too rich it'll start easy but run like crap when warmed up. Take it for a ride and do a plug chop, if the color's right, your jetting is fine.

Don't fcuk around with tape, set it up properly. Cheers, Terry.

[KrautKoffin]

The PD carbs were used so that they would pass ever increasingly more restrictive EPA tests, so they were super lean at idle, with accellerator pumps fitted to help mid-range accelleration. To make 'em work with pods, you need to run big jets.

If your bike is running fine with pods already fitted, then someone's done you a favor and already sorted the jetting. If it's jetted too lean it'll be a #$%* to start, if it's jetted too rich it'll start easy but run like crap when warmed up. Take it for a ride and do a plug chop, if the color's right, your jetting is fine.

Don't fcuk around with tape, set it up properly. Cheers, Terry.

The PO didn't jet it correctly and it's a pain in the dick to start and idle, so I'll be rejetting ASAP.  Thanks for the tips!

[bjbuchanan]

They never rejet

[martin99]

Lucky will be along soon for sure

I run my '77F with S&B pods and Marshall 4 into 1. You can get them to work very well, but I agree it's a lot of facking about.

I have gone up to 125 mains, and raised the needles one clip position. IMS screws one and a quarter turns out.  If your carbs are PD41s they will have adjustable needles, which makes life just that little bit easier.  Haven't messed with the slows yet, I'm quite happy with how it runs anyway and not convinced the small gain would justify the expense of new slows. It idles very smoothly with no hang.

Thirsty is right on the button there - everything needs to be in good shape to get the best result from running pods, they seem to be a lot less forgiving than the stock airbox.

[Terry in Australia]

They never rejet

Those bastaards!