I set the idle screw for proper idle RPM after warm up and then leave it there.
I also don't believe in a stationary idle period. None of my 550's have ever needed that. Suit up for ride, gas and choke on full, about 1/8 throttle and start. Adjust twist grip for about 2000 RPM and the choke gets positioned where I can drive off without the engine stumbling under power. Since I drive with my hand on the throttle all the time, I can keep the engine operating no problem. While driving, I can reach down as needed to bump the choke toward off as the needed to allow higher RPMs while driving. The engine warms up much faster when it makes motive power. So it takes about 2 stop lights or about about 1-2 miles when the choke can be fully off and the idle knob setting is right where it should be. Kinda depends on just how cold it is outside.
The 77 and 78 550Ks are even easier with their choke knob. Just pull the knob out all the way and start it. Push in enough to keep it from racing too high and drive off with it positioned where the engine doesn't stumble when power is needed. The idle is coupled to the choke position, with a "fast idle" cam. It took some reiterative tweaks to the fast idle screw to get the choke and idle bump speed to allow easy cold driving. But, once properly coordinated, cold driving is no big deal and you won't have to worry about holding the twist grip for extra RPM, not that it's really and great hardship.
That typifies how the stock bike configuration works. Of course, customization mods can aberrate normal behavior.