Another shop, 6 or 7 years ago… From there the fire spread, with black clouds billowing. Someone called the fire dept and the whole shop came out to watch. The reefer was toast. I got an ass chewing but I kept my job, and someone else was set to take the rest of the reefers off.
You REALLY NEED to find another type of work. The boss is a relative, no doubt.
No he wasn't. He wasn't happy about it, but he didn't fire me. the company I work for now, a lot of the management has a hard-on for getting people in trouble. I've never worked any place that tries as hard as these people to fire you.
What I was alluding to is that if YOU are a perpetual screw up, YOU should be fired!
Eventually, YOU are going to kill someone! Please find some other job that YOU can do safely/competently.
Eric
I post two stories and that makes me a perpetual screw up?
Add this to your "MJL is a dangerous lunatic" file. ..
Many years ago, probably around my early 20s, I borrowed my mom's car to go bowling. The bowling alley was part of a golf course, and located behind some other businesses. As I drove into the parking lot I went through a large puddle and the car stopped. I got out and pushed it to dry asphalt, then called someone for help. (The car was a mid 90's Cavalier.) The car would not crank over, so when tools showed up I pulled the plugs and sure enough the cylinders were full of water. I dried the plugs off as best as I could, then had a friend crank the engine over while I stood and watched for the water to empty. The water did come out, in jets that sprayed me in the face. I didnt think it would shoot that far. Plugs went back in and the car did start up.
Had a semi truck come in the shop one day. I dont remember what all it needed but one of the things was the courtesy light in the driver's door wasn't working right. It would come on for about ten seconds and then go out, then it would be several minutes before it would come on again. I took the inner panel off to check connections and found that one of the wires was broken. It made just enough contact to light the bulb, but the heat at the break would soften the insulation and since it was unsupported it would sag a bit and break the connection. I have also seen apparently good connections be corroded enough to do the same thing, crimes not crimped well, etc.
Yeah, wiring! Eesh...
About 3 weeks ago, I decided to remove my old Lincoln's fuel pump (it has 365,000 miles on it, now) because the PO had pulled it out to "replace a seal" me said (?),and when he put it back in, bent the bejeebers out of the fuel level indicator arm. Well, without any bejeebers in it, the car would run completely out of gas when the gauge showed 3/8 tank full. And, when it was full, the display (digital) turned into two tiny flashing bars at the top and bottom of the "range" of little dash marks that are supposed to be 1/20 tank increments (I think...).
So, I pulled it out, discovered first that the rubber O-ring seal was so expanded b ethanol that it was almost 1" larger now, once it escaped the hole.
Grumble...
Then I got the assembly out, soaking me in gas while I lay under the Lincol (we call it the 'Lincol" since the "n" is missing from the logo) because the pull-out method scoops out about 1/4 cup of fuel with it, and dumps it directly on you while you're under the car. Nice design! I'll bet those design guys are still chuckling... I re-bent the bejeebers back into the float arm so it looked like the picture on the Internet, but had to wait 4 days for the big O-ring to shrink back down to its normal size so I could put it all back together. Ethanol does this to our float bowl O-rings, too, but that's another day's topic...
Got it all together, drove to the gas station, filled it all the way back up, drove it home. Next day, went out to drive to the store, engine cranks, won't start. The 20 amp (!) fuel pump fuse is blown. Hmm. Installed a new one, started the car, quits. The fuel pump fuse is blown. Longer Hmmm... Measured the circuit with a meter, yep it is shorted. Wierd.
Go in the house, have some lunch. Come back out, jack up the car, pull off the plug to the pump, measure the circuit: OK. Measure the pump: also OK.
Huh?
Plug them back together, go to the front, check from there. Circuit measures normal (2.4 ohms). Now I am running out of 'hmms". Put in a new fuse and a fuel pressure gage for a check, switch the key on a couple times, get full pressure. Take the gage off, start the car, runs 3 seconds and dies. Fuse is blown.
Hmm changes to WTH...
Spend the rest of the day pumping the gas back out of the full tank, put some in the other cars until I am out of room, still more than 1/2 tank, have to wait until I burn some off, like Thursday.
...OK, it's Thursday, get the rest of the gas out, now it's dark. Go and pick up the special-order Lincol fuel pump at the auto parts store.
..Now it's today. I pull out the pump again, most of the gas misses me this time. That's a good start! While getting ready to install the new pump, I notice the (+) wire connector is pressed up against the float arm pot's bracket. Somehow, the pump has raised itself about 1/2" and the connector has pressed it's heat-shrinked stub against the metal, but it has cut through the heat shrink tubing. Holding the pump assembly straight up makes it short out: tilting it a little opens the circuit. OK, that explains the intermittent DEAD SHORT problem. So, I bend the whole contact over so it can't touch it anymore.
Each time I installed a new fuse (3 times), it would cause an arc to the ground for this 12 volt connector, inside the gas tank full of gas. So here's the big question:
Why am I still here?