Author Topic: 1975 CB550 Winter 2013 Build (Read 20560 times)

KrautKoffin · « **Reply #25 on:** January 23, 2014, 03:41:49 PM »

Quote from: Chaser60 on January 22, 2014, 06:03:39 PM

Far from perfect but in pretty good shape overall. That is why i am not cutting any frame or original parts. Anything I am modifying, is bought off a wreck and I am keeping all the original parts so when I want to go back to original I can. This is a light modification with a high dose of polish, paint and safety items like suspension, bearings, brakes etc.

"Far from perfect" lol my 74 550 came in boxes, and all I started with was a frame. I would have killed for a bike in your condition.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 23, 2014, 05:18:09 PM »

ah yes...far from perfect, but it is also way far farther away from a basket of parts ! That said, I am happily bringing it forward. Great first project after I have been off the project grid for more than 30 years. Cheers !

Chaser60 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 29, 2014, 06:18:04 PM »

Well a big milestone. Tear down complete. Dropped this group of parts off to powder coat.
Give or take 2 weeks. Will have these back. Plan is black, with not overly high gloss. Trying to get close to original paint gloss. Will post pics when the parts are back.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 29, 2014, 06:27:29 PM »

During last week have also been dealing with a mess in the fuel tank. There is another thread in the SOHC /4 bikes section that details the process and before and afters. Its posted there because some members had helped me out with suggestions.

Here is the before

And here is after....Summary redkote liner by some PO. MEK to dissolve, the Works to de rust, warm water and baking soda to neutralize acids. Rinse then Acetone to absorb remaining water. Looks way mo' better. Thanks to all that have posted about the works and to others that helped me identify the original mess as red kote aged to badness.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 29, 2014, 06:38:45 PM »

Next up shock tear down...Well once again, Forum search function saved my ... Of course, i had already taken shocks off the bike, unbolted the top nut, drained the oil and THEN tried to take out the hex bolt at the bottom of fork. Lots of PB blaster. some heat and an hand held impact wrench and sure enough its loose, but of course as you all know, it is now spinning in the damper....So read about the broom handle trick...As a reformed wood worked, had lots of dowels around. Held in the end and bolt now free. New progressive springs and seals are to be ordered, but have lots of time polishing before re-assembly.

As you can guess, I was surprised when my insides didnt look like any of the diagrams in the manuals... PANIC setting in, but again, quick search here and seems the 550 fork damper changed to eliminate the long rod, but that little tid bit did not make it into the manuals. All good again.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #30 on:** January 29, 2014, 06:50:23 PM »

And while waiting for the tank to soak in nasty chems, took the rear wheel, tube, brakes and such off. Have new wheel bearings so this friggin thing is the next issue. I cant figure out exactly what is meant by drilling out the 4 stops. Will research this some more, but am having fear of drilling too big, too deep and destroying something vital. sorry this picture is blurred. I just cant picture what I am drilling and what I am not drilling.

Next steps here once I get this thing off and the bearings out is to decide how to clean up the hub, and spokes. I dont really want to unlace it, but I think that is going to be inevitable. Also need to figure out if brakes need done. They look ok, no scoring on drum inside, but does anyone know the thickness at which the shoes should be replaced and what are they when new so I can decide how much is worn?

Pasoren · « **Reply #31 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:10:32 PM »

...and you are drilling why? Just pulled my rear and front bearings using something like this: http://t.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

Heat it up first with a heat gun or similar. You have to remove the retainers first.

But, first of all (if you don't already have it) get the parts list and workshop manual!

WhyNot2 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:30:41 PM »

Watching......looks good so far.......loves them 550s, still looking for one myself.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 03, 2014, 06:12:01 AM »

Pasoren,

Thanks for tip. The drilling was for the 4 small indents that prevent the retainer from turning out. Once I finally got that free, I got the bearings out thanks again to tips here about moving the spacer over to get a lip for the end of a tool, plus a nice big hammer... Will post pics later of a DIY tool that did not work for the retainer torque.

The front retainer (with the seal) is pretty beat up from the process so will have to go on line later today to see about availability. Hopefully it is not some rare item made from that precious metal called unobtainium....I hate that stuff

calj737 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 03, 2014, 09:46:45 AM »

Bill - I may have my hub still that's free to you. I'm going with a GSXR front end on this build and won't be using it. I've cut the spokes out already, so it should be easy to rebuild. In fact, I'm pretty sure I've already pulled the bearings and retainer out.

PM for details.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 09, 2014, 06:13:21 PM »

Thanks Cal, Will follow up when I pick up the PC parts as discussed via PM.

Been a busy week, not able to do much real work on this project. However, did get the wheels unlaced. Will polish up the hubs and rims. Then will have to make decision on spokes. Spokes are in pretty good shape, but after spending all day messing with polishing other parts, not sure I am going to tackle 80 spokes.

Hubs are in good shape and I am sure will polish up well if I can get my technique refined. More on that later.

Front rim has light rust on inside. It will clean up fine. Rear is worse, but will try to clean that up too. Will prime inside with rustoleum primer before assembly. Have seen a few threads on that here.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 09, 2014, 06:29:26 PM »

Spent a good part of day polishing. My first attempt at this. Read a lot of good tips here and also on the caswell plating website. That said, what a freaking mess polishing creates. I wore goggles and face mask, but rest of my face looked like pictures I have seen of men coming out of coal mines ! I had hung tarps in my shop to keep dirt contained, but wow...

Any of you have any tips on how you keep yourself reasonably clean, I am all ears...

Anyways, most of my parts are not deeply pitted, so only used wet n dry paper on a few. Basic method was

Light sand with 400 or 600 only if needed,
Black compound on sisal wheel
Wipe down part or wash any residual black off the part
Brown compound on spiral sewn wheel
wipe down part or wash any residual brown off the part
White compound on loose cotton wheel.
Finish with mothers aluminum polish

Below are a few parts. They are significantly improved, but not quite the mirror finish that I have seen some of you all acheive.

Front fork lowers came out better

As I said, this is my first attempt at this, so if anyone has ideas how to improve the results, I would love to hear them.

Plan to polish the hubs and a few bits on the engine, so lots of opportunity to get better...(and filthy)

Chaser60 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 09, 2014, 06:39:28 PM »

So how many miles do sprockets and chains typically last? I have no idea how old these are, but bike has about 8300 miles so I guess, that should be the max on these. It looks to me like the 17 tooth has some wear and should be replaced. The rear looks ok to me, but is hard to see in these pics. Is it ok to replace only 1 of the 3 components (chain being the third obviously), or is this best to replace front, rear and chain as a set?

KrautKoffin · « **Reply #38 on:** February 10, 2014, 10:43:29 PM »

If you replace one you'll prematurely wear it, replace all three and save yourself the hassle of doing it later.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 27, 2014, 05:19:01 PM »

been away from this for a long while. Too much going on. But great news, picked up all the powder coated parts last week, so now I need to get going on engine paint and polishing, so I can start the re-assembly. PC looks great and really helped clean it all up, especially the smaller parts.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 27, 2014, 05:30:33 PM »

Also heard from the guy doing my seat. He is done and has pics for me.

here is a picture of the reshaped seat pan and green foam mock up that I sent him

here is the finished product. I am a long ways and a lot of work from being ready to get it on the bike, but glad it is done and on its way back.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #41 on:** February 27, 2014, 08:09:29 PM »

The seat looks good!!

Chaser60 · « **Reply #42 on:** March 06, 2014, 03:03:54 PM »

I am all jacked up today. Painter called and tins are done. So of course I dropped everything and ran out to get them.

Here is the tank before...Rusted under seat line and several smaller dents on other side along top edge

And the after...

The front fender is one that I found damaged on ebay and I shortened it front and back before sending out to paint.

So of course I couldn't wait to try it on with the seat. Color is a deep red pearl and does not really show that way in the pics

I had thought that by time I got frame parts back from powder, the seat back from cushion/cover fabrication and the tins back from paint, I would be ready to start build. Sadly, I have so much work left, but wow do these make me want to get er DONE...

calj737 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 06, 2014, 03:26:02 PM »

That's great looking paint, Bill! Beautiful compliment to the black PC work.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #44 on:** March 06, 2014, 04:36:18 PM »

The paint and body work look solid. I like the reshaped seat, too!

Chaser60 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 30, 2014, 05:35:27 PM »

Its almost time to start putting this thing back together. Polishing about done, parts bagged and tagged and done soaking in Evapo Rust ( this stuff has almost replaced vodka as my favorite liquid ).

Chaser60 · « **Reply #46 on:** March 30, 2014, 05:39:17 PM »

Drilled the rotor today and installed the all balls wheel bearings in the rear hub.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 30, 2014, 05:44:35 PM »

Also pressed in the rear shock bushings. Thanks to Hondaman advice to point out to press them from Inside to Out since the hole in swing arm is slightly tapered. I just reversed the process I used to get them out. 1 bolt, 2 different size sockets and be sure to tape the socket that will touch the beautiful new powder coat.

Chaser60 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 30, 2014, 05:57:10 PM »

And to officially kick off the rebuild, I also re-attached the VIN tag to the frame. I used these drive rivets. An old thread here identified them. They worked perfectly. I also used double sided carpet tape on the back of the vin tag so it is stuck down to the frame in addition to the rivets.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91654a077/=bg3npl

Part Number: 91654A077
Nail Type: Easy-Drive
Easy-Drive Nail Type: For Sheet Metal, Plastic, and Plywood
Material: 18-8 Stainless Steel
Finish/Coating: Plain
Decimal Size: .100"
Number Size: No. 2
Head Type: Oval
Shank Type: Spiral
Head Diameter: .162"
Head Height: .069"
Recommended Hole Size (Drill No.): .086" (44)
Length: 1/4"
Box Quantity: 100
Specifications Met: Not Rated
Note: Length is measured from under the head.

streak09 · « **Reply #49 on:** March 31, 2014, 01:35:06 PM »

You are moving along! The powdercoat, paint, and polishing looks great!

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Author Topic: 1975 CB550 Winter 2013 Build (Read 20560 times)