Topic: Quickest N/A CB750 Honda Gary Pena's Record Runs....in the 8's!

[dragracer]

K, taking all y'all up,I can only ride one at a time! Frank, thanks your help is going to be key. Might need to come visit,we could check bars Ive got and maybe pickup one of the club foots, and checkout chassis so far!  Jon,you on! Hopefully........SAM will be on Samauto! Yes, 2014 looks to be a much better year! K, Bill
Bill,

I assumed you were going to use the chassis Gary built for you. The backhalf includes the arm so that club foot you mentioned isn't needed unless you plan to build another bike using a stock chassis. You got a full chromemoly chassis- hot dog!!!! We're going to have some fun now. I would suggest you get Gary to make bars specifically for this chassis. I don't recall seeing wheelie bar mounts welded to the chassis in the attached picture.

What type body work were you intending to use on this chassis?? It seems you've still got a lot of fabrication and welding needed to be done. In particular a way to mount an inner fender and attachments points at the rear to support the body, a place to mount electronics, a battery box. Well, a lot to do still.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Yes, going to use my Pena chassis. Clubfoots both came with bars,but more sensible to let Gary make them,may still have some. I'll post some more pics in an hour or so of chassis(frame) so far, Bill
Going to try to get his old bodywork(got some pcs) or get him to make me some. I know he's still got the tank!

[dragracer]

Yes, going to use my Pena chassis. Clubfoots both came with bars,but more sensible to let Gary make them,may still have some. I'll post some more pics in an hour or so of chassis(frame) so far, Bill
Going to try to get his old bodywork(got some pcs) or get him to make me some. I know he's still got the tank!

I hope i didn't sound like a smart azz or "know it all" in that post. Its just that i've built a few bikes from scratch so i know there can be a  ton of things that need to be considered to make one complete and usable. It would have been best if Gary had welded on the wheelie bar mounts and then fabricated the bars specifically for your chassis. I'm sure with his experience it would be a breeze for him to fix you up without the chassis and send you the tabs to mount the bars  on the chassis also. Just putting some things out there for you to consider.

[jweeks]

    If I am following the Pena chassis situation correctly, the chassis is intended for a big cc Hondamatic motor.  Wheelie bars are more for the clutch CB750 versions. I have wheelie bars on my Athanis chassised Hondamatic for the power wheelies that the bike does going down the track. Much less stress on them than a 1.30 60' launch with a clutch version. The only reason that mine wheelies at all is the powerband of the 1180cc motor which doesn't use the DP295 cam. I've got a Webcam regrind that has big torque around 7k which pops the front wheel up. It hits the wheelie bar that I've set low, and immediately goes back down to two wheels (in low gear only).
     Perhaps someone could ask RC about his Hondamatic setup back in the day. It's still the quickest one that I know of. Bill will have more challenges holding the motor on the starting line with big multiple calipers on the rear brakes. With high 1.7's as the 60' goal for launching it, the front end shouldn't be heading up much at 6 grand. Probably will need the bars, but as a safety blow-over prevention device.

[dragracer]

    If I am following the Pena chassis situation correctly, the chassis is intended for a big cc Hondamatic motor.  Wheelie bars are more for the clutch CB750 versions. I have wheelie bars on my Athanis chassised Hondamatic for the power wheelies that the bike does going down the track. Much less stress on them than a 1.30 60' launch with a clutch version. The only reason that mine wheelies at all is the powerband of the 1180cc motor which doesn't use the DP295 cam. I've got a Webcam regrind that has big torque around 7k which pops the front wheel up. It hits the wheelie bar that I've set low, and immediately goes back down to two wheels (in low gear only).
     Perhaps someone could ask RC about his Hondamatic setup back in the day. It's still the quickest one that I know of. Bill will have more challenges holding the motor on the starting line with big multiple calipers on the rear brakes. With high 1.7's as the 60' goal for launching it, the front end shouldn't be heading up much at 6 grand. Probably will need the bars, but as a safety blow-over prevention device.

Jon,

I got a recent understanding that Bill now intends to use this chassis with Gary Pena's old stroker motor instead of the Hondamatic. The chassis was designed to use either the Matic or a regular SOHC motor so Bill would not be locked in to either.

Okay Mr. Bill, enlighten us on the present intended use of this chassis cause i am now very confused.

Jon, your bike sounds like it makes a lot of power once it gets past the 60' mark. What is the best 60' you've done so far?? I bet a similarly built hand clutch motor would really fly in a good chassis. Oh, and its sad Todd sold out all his chassis equipment. The guy was a true craftsman and it narrows down choices for the racers. A friend of mine bought one of the last ones he did and that bike seems to handle like a Caddy.

[jweeks]

1.79 best 60'; 6.80's @ 100 in the 1/8th; 10.80's @124 in the quarter. Have clutch pack slippage issue with high gear shift. Easy to get more power. Hard to hold it on the starting line. Bill's going to have about 30 more horses than I currently have. I have a bracket bike. Bill's looking for a record holder. Neither of Bill's motors will be making lots of passes without a lot of upkeep.

[dragracer]

1.79 best 60'; 6.80's @ 100 in the 1/8th; 10.80's @124 in the quarter. Have clutch pack slippage issue with high gear shift. Easy to get more power. Hard to hold it on the starting line. Bill's going to have about 30 more horses than I currently have. I have a bracket bike. Bill's looking for a record holder. Neither of Bill's motors will be making lots of passes without a lot of upkeep.

I'm impressed with the 1/8th mile time and mph based on the not so quick 60'. That motor is really turning on once it launches.

Yeap, the bigger the motor, the bigger your problems become in the long run but it sure is fun while you're doing it. Until the tear down starts.  Lol.

[bear]

Yeap, the bigger the motor, the bigger your problems become in the long run but it sure is fun while you're doing it. Until the tear down starts.  Lol.

Our two Hy-Vo's are good for 100hrs @ 124rwhp.
Things start to get a bit tricky past the 130 mark.
Getting the horse power is one thing, balancing it with driveline reliability is the challenge for us.

Cheers,
Brian

[Bill/BentON Racing]

100 hours, that I can handle! OK,gotta finish work, but more news and pics tonight!
Hint; if you had two engines....... Be nice to have..........! No way, yes it's going to happen! Bill

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Where it's at rt now,...for big engine Automatic!,Rear wheel will be the DID 350x18 Gold anodized laced to 76F hub and disc

Fiberglass tank,also main down tube can be used for fluid,air etc.

Tracy Body....? No it's going on an 77-78F frame one day!

This shouts out "Pena"!
so,just got off phone with Gary...we going to take the chassis he was building for himself,and stick the old record setting engine in it and make it look like this with fresh paint ...Ancient Warrior II to debut in Indy if at all possible! Going back to Gary's in May! Bill(lucky dog)

[dragracer]

Where it's at rt now,...for big engine Automatic!,Rear wheel will be the DID 350x18 Gold anodized laced to 76F hub and disc

Fiberglass tank,also main down tube can be used for fluid,air etc.

Tracy Body....? No it's going on an 77-78F frame one day!

This shouts out "Pena"!
so,just got off phone with Gary...we going to take the chassis he was building for himself,and stick the old record setting engine in it and make it look like this with fresh paint ...Ancient Warrior II to debut in Indy if at all possible! Going back to Gary's in May! Bill(lucky dog)

I like this idea a lot better for you Bill. Hopefully you can get Gary to come to Indy. We got a lot of testing to do before that time my friend. I'm on board as usual.

[scottly]

Hey Billy, post some pics of the stealth fiberglass gas tanks.

[754]

Purple anodized rim would be classic Pena..

[madmtnmotors]

Hey Billy, post some pics of the stealth fiberglass gas tanks.

You talking about the black tank with the red/orange/yellow stripe?  If so, you're looking at a NOS Tracy body. Saw it up close and personal over Thanksgiving weekend when I was passing through Atlanta. Had to stop in and say "HEY" to Bill and got to see the "Batcave" in person.  That Tracy body is pristine, except I might have left some drool running down the sides of it! There is also an interesting story behind that particular Tracy body... I'll let Bill fill everyone in on that! 

[jweeks]

Just so that I'm not totally confused...(?) The automatic chassis and Gary's chassis are two different chassis?!

The big motor 'matic needs a small slick to keep the tire attached to the track. For a 7" small slick (now trimmed to 5.5" tread width from the manufacturer), around a 5 to 5.5" wide 18" rim is needed. To launch that, the biggest diameter rear rotor that you can put on it helps a lot. The stock rotor will probably not do well with 130 r.w. horses trying to move the rear wheel off of the starting line.

Yes, burnouts to heat and clean off the slick will be expected.

If you start with Sam's bike rear brake, you can learn more about the limits. High 11's are the limit for small 18" street tires with no burnouts. You're looking to go at least 1.5 seconds quicker. Start with the right sized parts. It's less expensive...

[dragracer]

Just so that I'm not totally confused...(?) The automatic chassis and Gary's chassis are two different chassis?!

The big motor 'matic needs a small slick to keep the tire attached to the track. For a 7" small slick (now trimmed to 5.5" tread width from the manufacturer), around a 5 to 5.5" wide 18" rim is needed. To launch that, the biggest diameter rear rotor that you can put on it helps a lot. The stock rotor will probably not do well with 130 r.w. horses trying to move the rear wheel off of the starting line.

Yes, burnouts to heat and clean off the slick will be expected.

If you start with Sam's bike rear brake, you can learn more about the limits. High 11's are the limit for small 18" street tires with no burnouts. You're looking to go at least 1.5 seconds quicker. Start with the right sized parts. It's less expensive...

Good advice Jon. I was going to comment on that narrow rim as well and the limitations of an 18" street tire. You covered all the bases.

[TurboD]

Very cool project, I can't wait to see it. (In Indy??)

I am confused about the rear wheel/tire? I understand if it is to be period correct, but now days I would not consider anything but using a 17 inch wheel. There are a number of choices both street tire and slick to provide any goal you have, going 18 will very much limit the options. That said however, I have gotten a 18 x 2.5 wheel and a $50 Cheng Shin 130 tire to run high 9's with 1.55 60 foot times.

Edit.. After looking at the Warrior bike, a mid 90's Suzuki GSXR straight spoke 17 wheel would make a nice replica. I've picked up 2 lately for around $100.

[joe p]

I have a 18X3.50 rim on my drag bike that I got off a 1984 Honda Interceptor. I put a 5.5 drag slick on it and ran 1.45 60' and low 10 with no problems.

[jweeks]

     The hondamatic is a bracket bike. Nobody runs a 3.5 rim and an 18" street tire on a 10 second bracket bike and expects to win especially without clutch launch tricks.
     If you're keeping with spoke rear wheels, you stay with an 18" rim. I haven't seen 17" wide rear spoke rims available. Yes you can put a 5.5 slick on a narrow rim. You'll wear out the center of the tire prematurely. I don't think that period correct enters into this build.
     For the record setting Pena motor/chassis combination, yes that matters. Just my opinion.

[joe p]

I guess I missed the street tire part. I plan on running a 5.5 X 18 M/T on my Pro ET bracket bike.

[Tintop]

Central Wheel Components in the UK can supply a Morad alloy 17"/40 spoke in 4.25", 5", or 5.5".  Not inexpensive though.
http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/rims/morad_rim/morad_rim.html

[TurboD]

Here is what I had in mind when I suggested a 17 "spoke" wheel, it is 5.5 wide and uses a 20mm axle for easy mounting. Put a Shinko Hook Up tire on and your traction problems are solved.

[dragracer]

Here is what I had in mind when I suggested a 17 "spoke" wheel, it is 5.5 wide and uses a 20mm axle for easy mounting. Put a Shinko Hook Up tire on and your traction problems are solved.

I still have the 4.5" wide Buchanan( Sun) rear wheel with the 5.5" slick I took off my F model. I have gotten low 1.40 sixty foot times on my no bar bike with that set up. If i can't get my F model to  hook with the Shinko Hookup tire i intend to mount next month, that rim might be available to Bill with some horse trading. At least he would have disc brake capabilities. The option TurboD seems the most economically feasible for use of either a 7" slick or a sticky 17" street tire on the same rim for versatility. In fact Bil could use the entire stock GSXR brake set up just as shown by Turbo and then add extra caliper if needed. No way in heck i would waste my time trying to search for an 18" sticky street tire these days- there aren't any that i'm aware of. I drove my self crazy buying and trying different 18" street tires for the F model  over the years so i could run street ET with it but not one hooked at the extended wheelbase i'm running- i finally gave up and put the light weight 17" PM Chicane wheel on the bike to expand my choice of sticky tires. 

[dusterdude]

Turbod,is that a cbr wheel,i put one on mine,looks real nice


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[TurboD]

It is from a 88-92 GSXR 750/1100, some GSXR 600's used the same wheel. The later (newer) models have a larger axle, making it harder to mount them.