Topic: Drag Bike / The Big 4 Express.

[dusterdude]

That's what I like about Harleys Don, put any carb in any condition on one, and it'll just run. I have no idea why Jap bikes are so finicky.

True

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[Don R]

 Now that I have carb adapters, I'll put the 29 smoothbores back on it.  The PO mentioned the old sudco rubbers split where the clamps went on. He did use worm gear type clamps so there is that, these new ones are urethane so we'll see how they work, they might be the last set available, Andrews is out and I can't find a Sudco dealer that lists them. I'm out of engine cover gaskets too, will probably order a batch from CycleX. Edit, I ordered the super side cover set foam covered metal core.
  It's difficult to read the Smoothbore 29's jets, looks like 110 main jet and 15? pilots. I could not find my magnifying glass.

[Don R]

    It runs, it's a little smokey but I oiled the cylinders so that's to be expected. The stock carb clamps bottom out just as they tighten, the wrap around clamps I got for the webers were too wide.
   The Gerex ignition box needed moved away from heat, I removed it and began to repair the "temporary" wiring. The wiring components are going back to their original locations and the Gerex back to the right rear side. I modified the battery box mount to fit a lawn tractor start relay and will use a blade fuse holder. The headlight is instant on now, I'll probably use a switch on it. The parking lamp in the headlight with an LED may reduce the amp load on the light flywheel.

[RAFster122s]

Congratulations Don!

[Don R]

 Thanks, I finally brought home a runner.
  This thing has some wiring issues. I'm deciding whether to replace the harness entirely or strip the tape and go wire by wire. I have a set of tall bars with controls on a K3 frame I put on the shelf a few years ago (the engine is in my K0) I may steal the controls off of it.
  I guess the big decision is turn signals and full controls or stay with the stripped-down configuration.

[Don R]

I spent an entire day just fixing the twisted splice wires. I ended up using an F battery box and a nice stock starter relay with an F + battery cable. I just stuck a K0 fuse box in it for now and soldered the ignition switch back in with only one set of splices. I re-connected the starter button wires, I hope the opposite ends are in the headlight bucket. My wiring harness and wiring device totes are in need of sorting and disassembly. 

[RAFster122s]

I hate wiring hacks! Glad you made progress. Winter project, go through and reorganize the restock the electrical and connector boxes...

[Don R]

 I spent the day going through parts and finding enough to build an early style right side switch assembly. Crazy. $40 will get a copy. I have wiring totes open and parts everywhere. I would trust the bike to start and ride, it's going to be in the 50's this week and if I get my work done this old Dad is going to give this rear tire a spin test. Even after a power wash it's barn mud brown.

[Alan F.]

You might want to set up a stationary camera for that outing. Sounds like good fun to watch.

[Medyo Bastos]

You might want to set up a stationary camera for that outing. Sounds like good fun to watch.

ditto


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[Don R]

 I built a right control from junk parts and put it on a stock 400f handlebar, it does not work with the 1/4 turn throttle. I ended up making a nut (was missing) to fit a different throttle cable housing with a kill button and although it works with the throttle, it uses a ground to kill the ignition not a 12v switch. No idea how that will play with the Gerex ignition box. It probably needs a relay to work. 
  I ended up using an aluminum switch panel that bolts to the handlebar mounts with a push button for start and a toggle for the low beam on it.
  Temporary at best but I need to test ride it while it's reasonably warm.
  Next up, a gas tank. I'll leave the filter on the fuel line, it's the adapter from 5.5mm to the 5/16 on the carb inlet and a safety for whatever might be in the tank I use.
  The moral of the story, high performance parts may not play well with stock parts. With drag cars I usually find one change cascades to 5 items before it all works.

[Don R]

 A stock 3 bolt steel chain guard is a no, the wide rear tire pushes it into the chain. L0L. I think I got a heavy-duty chrome one with the totes of stuff.
   I plan to eventually put the Lester mags on this bike and double disc the front but with late style forks, not the K1's. The existing rotors have a drill pattern that does not match side to side, so I'll pick my favorite and drill one to match it.

   The turbo bike's 18x3.5" DID rear rim has one newer bearing and a missing and cross threaded bearing retainer, a few of the cush rubbers are in the loose parts box, I'll probably just save the rim and lace it to a different hub. I still haven't determined a proper drag tire for it. There's a 750A front rim ready to use on the shelf. It will go single disc for drag racing. Maybe even a 550 brake since I have the caliper and bracket.
   I got a lot of raw material but most of it needs a rebuild.

[Medyo Bastos]

What size tire is that?


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[Don R]

What size tire is that?

 The sidewall says 3.50x18, Goodyear road racing slick, across the slick clearly measures almost 6". I read something about race tires sized by the rim they can go on. I've always wondered about the tires that seem bigger than their numbers.

  From what I've seen I realize to take nothing for granted that it's all there or able to be used as is. I got it for an awesome price and am pleased with the purchase but like I told the seller everything is a project. What a great batch of raw material though.

[Don R]

 I want to put an oiled up crank in an old block with a starter and spin the type 2 ARD mag, the crank drive needs the support so it can spin and not grind or tweak the belt. I want to re-build components until I have enough for the turbo bike to be ready to assemble.
 

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Don, is there any chance you can send a pic of the belt for the MK2 ARD? I bought one that I thought would fit, but it didn't, so if the Gates belt has the part number visible, I'd like to know what it is? Thanks mate!

[Don R]

Here it is Terry, I think the 466 at the right is just a lot number.

[Don R]

 Come on CycleX and post office, I need those gaskets. It's going to be 50* and I want to abuse an 836 without oil on my tires.

[dusterdude]

150xl025 is the number

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[Don R]

 I agree, he got the wrong ones once, so I think he wanted to interpret the numbers himself from a pic. I couldn't figure out how to send it in a PM so I posted it here.

[dusterdude]

And they're cheap,iirc,i found them in texaa for like 3 or 4 dollars each

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[Don R]

 I was told the goldwing belts are in short supply, I hope it has caught up by now, a friend was riding a gl on old belts.
 My gaskets didn't arrive yet, shame on me for not ordering sooner. Often the parts guys in Wi. will use speedy delivery, we have one of their trucks based here in town in Il. and he gets stuff here PDQ.
  This time it went post office. It's been warm and mostly dry yesterday and today. Tomorrow, I'm hitting it hard so when I get the gaskets the bike will be ready to rock. Then it's sell some stuff time.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks guys, I'll order a couple from Motion Pro, they had them cheap. I just ordered 4 new K&N pods for the 33mm smoothbore carbs on my Z1-B from Amazon for cheap as I'd remembered that I used two of the Ebay cheapie pods on my Suzuki T500 build, and need to get the Z1 on the road ASAP as it's the 50th anniversary of the Z1 in 2022, so lots of Z1 events to ride to here. I hope all your stuff arrives pronto Don, I want to see that bike making some noise.    

[Terry in Australia]

Ooher, speaking of gates timing belts for Goldwings, how often do they need to be changed? My Valkyrie has only done a tad over 20K miles in 23 years, and although I have a pretty complete service history, I don't see a belt change? My 1994 XLH Sportster has only done 7000 miles in 27 years and is still running it's original drive belt without any obvious issues? Are the Goldwing engines "Interference" or Non-Interference"? My old 1995 Subaru with it's 2.2 litre boxer engine is "Non Interference", whereas the beastly little twin turbo 2 litre engine in my 2002 Liberty (Legacy in the US) GT twin turbo is "Interference".

[Don R]

 I know more about 4 cyl goldwings but they are interference for sure. The GL guys all say if you are in doubt, change them out. I dated the inside of my covers and put a sticker in the shelter area. The corresponding gates belts are way cheaper than Honda and are often the same thing. My 78 had scary idler bearings so I rebuilt them with subaru parts. (Article in naked goldwings)
 I got mine for a cool hundred, sold my 79 for a grand and spent every penny on this 78. It's a lot prettier and I know a little of its history. It's the 20 year sleeper in "other bikes"  When the wind is behind me, I think I can hear a bearing in the wing going shhhhhhhhhhhhh. It seems to go with engine rpm, not bike speed.

  I let the 836 make noise on the lift but it spewed about a quart of oil. Lol. I topped it off with some very old oil from a metal can. It's going to get a flush anyway so the 80% fresh Rotella will have to cover the protection until the change.