Topic: retore/touch up over winter

[cb550fnewb]

Tank looks too nice to get a paint job, are there any rust and dings/dents?

But the newly painted side covers won't match the old tank.  I did this once and regretted it. 
Could keep that tank and buy another to paint....

side covers is a big reason for painting tank. Also plus going through the process to find a good painter for the covers in rural Utah, I feel like I will just end up getting the tank done to match. (unless I go the mail route)

Don't think I would buy another tank.  How much value will the tank/bike lose by being re-painted?
 
This is a decision well into the future, earliest being next winter and is the last thing on my to do list. Seat cover/trim and tank trim/filling in pin stripping will improve it a bit (maybe enough to convince me not to have it painter) The tank emblems I just painted and make the tank look 10 times better.

[calj737]

If you want to "restore" the tank's original paint, you can carefully wet sand it. Start with 1000-1200 paper. Then go to 2000. Then buff with a good quality polish. I've done a dozen or so this way.

I always wipe the tank down with Denatured Alcohol first to remove any contaminants. Then, I use a clay bar to clean the clear coat (only the green metallic areas of your tank are clear coated, the black is not).

Then I go to the paper steps. Be very careful over the black, only use the 2000 stage there, just a very light scuff that the buffing will remove.

This won't remove the deep scratch, but it will soften it, and the rest of your tank will gleam!

Here's a sunrise orange I did for someone recently that was in the same or worse condition as yours.

[cb550fnewb]

If you want to "restore" the tank's original paint, you can carefully wet sand it. Start with 1000-1200 paper. Then go to 2000. Then buff with a good quality polish. I've done a dozen or so this way.

I always wipe the tank down with Denatured Alcohol first to remove any contaminants. Then, I use a clay bar to clean the clear coat (only the green metallic areas of your tank are clear coated, the black is not).

Then I go to the paper steps. Be very careful over the black, only use the 2000 stage there, just a very light scuff that the buffing will remove.

This won't remove the deep scratch, but it will soften it, and the rest of your tank will gleam!

Here's a sunrise orange I did for someone recently that was in the same or worse condition as yours.

thanks for the tip i will give it a shot.

i will have to order some 2000 gr sand paper. no one in town has it when I was looking for it to polish chrome up.

[cb550fnewb]

any one got any tips on painting these up.  I tried this summer with latex paint (they are fiberglass) this summer and they looked good until about a week later after painting, I went for a drive and the paint got a bunch of ripples from the wind i believe (it was 90 F out that week so they had plenty of time and warmth to dry so i think the paint was cured fully)

Any ideas on paint I should use. I will probably sand the paint down a little and am looking for something in a rattle can, just not sure what I should go with yet.  Big thing is durable because to get under seat, I have to take one lid off and put it over the other lid or the ground.  They are about the age of the bike and all cracks have been sealed with two part epoxy on my first attempt to paint them.

No putting them back on is not an option. I use them a lot, even have a 4 piece fly and spinning reel that fits in them perfectly. 
Also any tips on getting my new side covers to match tank (going to get some quotes on painting after I try what calj737 suggested on the tank)

[calj737]

Two things: the prep and the paint are your issues. Paint needs a good scratch coat to bond to. Nothing less than 400 grit when you spray your topcoat. Also, I would not use Latex paint. It won't tolerate the vibration and flex in fiberglass or plastics. Use a proper automotive paint, whether from a can or through a gun.

Sand that case back with 180 grit to remove everything you put on, and get into the original surface. Then, 320 grit to prep for a Primer. LIGHT coats of primer, 3 possibly. Then a 400 grit, light scuffing. Then 2-3 coats of your color. Use a Base Coat tack cloth between coats.

Then finish with 2 coats of Clear coat. Don't sand your top cost, you'll need all the protection!

[cb550fnewb]

cosmetic paint work will wait 'til summer when its a little warmer to help paint set better and quicker

Wednesday, weather depending, I am going to take bike out for a ride and see if i forgot anything.  I will take some pics.  Its 40 here in southern Utah so a little chilly but ice free and warm enough for a test ride.

Only thing left is waiting for some m6 helicoils to arrive so I can fix exhaust stud. Despite heat, chemicals and ez out. I ended up drilling out the broken stud which later turned into 2 studs when reinstalling exhaust.  Exhaust currently doesn't sound like it is leaking so test drive will hopefully go good.  Luckily the studs are the 2 on the outside of 1 & 4 so I can easily get to them.

Thanks for all help got a month left to touch up anything before i take a month trip to ohio then a month in the southern california area then when i get back to utah it will be time to get the bike out and start riding.

[calj737]

In the future, get a Stud puller to remove studs. Double-nutting can work, but Stud Pullers always work. Use ample heat too while unscrewing them.

[cb550fnewb]

one broke off recessed about 1/4" other i use a double nut and heat it up and it snapped the same way. Heat and EZ outs could not budge either. In the future, I will pick u a stud puller at the beginning. Instead of trying to save money which ends up costing more in the long run.

Almost took it out today but after a fight with the spring on the kickstand  (I forgot to put back on) the sun began to set at 45 degrees turned to 30 real quick.

tomorrow hopefully

[cb550fnewb]

went for a short ride which end up being a 70 mile ride to Moab.  Bike ran great.  Was amazed how syncing the carbs completely changed the power.  I knew it was idling better but acceleration was like a different bike all together. 

Did find one issue. Which was there before but seems worse now.  My rear brake pedal (not sure if that the motorcycle term for it) hits my 4 into 2 exhaust. It is adjust up as high as possible and I only get about a 1/2" before it bottoms out so the brake doesn't really do anything. I don't think I have enough travel available for braking.

Any tips on rear brake pedal.  photos attached (muffler hits swing arm in back stopping me from moving it in any more)

No pictures from ride my phone died on me.

[brooze72]

Well if luck is on your side, you could move the pedal upwards on the spline so it is closer to the bottom of the foot peg. If this works & there is enough travel to engage the brakes, you would then probably need to bend the brake pedal straighter to return the foot actuator portion to a more level/lower state. If this doesn't work, you'll then be into modifying or replacing the exhaust or maybe mounting rearsets & all that encompasses.  Neither are inexpensive options.  Maybe others might have a different solution too.  Good luck.

[cb550fnewb]

Well if luck is on your side, you could move the pedal upwards on the spline so it is closer to the bottom of the foot peg. If this works & there is enough travel to engage the brakes, you would then probably need to bend the brake pedal straighter to return the foot actuator portion to a more level/lower state. If this doesn't work, you'll then be into modifying or replacing the exhaust or maybe mounting rearsets & all that encompasses.  Neither are inexpensive options.  Maybe others might have a different solution too.  Good luck.

I moved it all the way up so I'm not lucky.  Bending pedal could work.  But I think I will be need to bend more (upward) right before it hit the exhaust. I dont think I can gain anything bending it straighter.

I will definitely attempt heating it up and bending it before I even think about buying a different exhaust.

Wait and see if anyone else has another ideas before I try to bend it :/

[brooze72]

Yes, that could be an option  for a custom bend, thinking it would also have to be almost a "U" shape under the pedal to get higher on the spline. Before bending anything take some measuremenst of available space between the foot peg & exhaust then try & calculate if it is enough travel for full brake application.

[calj737]

Before you bend it, I have at least 1 spare, maybe 2. I think another option would be to cut the arm length, shortening and straightening it, leaving you with the foot tab, and allowing the spline.

If you want to use some spare wire or something simple, test fit a few ideas. If you come up with something, let me know. I could cut, re-weld and then send one along to you to try. Hate to see you hash up a stock piece if I have spares that could suffice.

[brooze72]

Nice offer calj, are you thinking to put the pedal behind the footpeg with the shortening idea? I agree with trying to mock up something before commiting the steel.

[cb550fnewb]

okay here's more picture and ideas.  Calj737 I am going to have to send you my bike as a gift with all the help you have offered.

The first one shows where a am losing all my travel.  Looks like I can only gain a 1/4 by bending the right side (in picture) upward just right of red line. Then I will hit the nut my finger is pointing at in second.   (not sure why in the last 30 years no one thought they might need brake.  I know in 1980 this exhaust was on the bike when my father-in-law bought it.)

I think the only way to get it to work without modifying my exhaust   is to make it so the  pedal can come down next to the exhaust. Most-likely but cutting and welding a U in the horizontal plane.  I am playing on photoshop to see if i can show what i mean. Since I am not sure I can understand what I typed. Then if you think that it should work I will mock something up with some measurements.

but here's pictures   

[cb550fnewb]

Nice offer calj, are you thinking to put the pedal behind the footpeg with the shortening idea? I agree with trying to mock up something before commiting the steel.

rear might look better but how can switch the brake around to make pushing down braking? Can i just spin the rod (where the hole in the pedal slips over, not sure what to call it) 180 degrees

[calj737]

This isn't a unique problem. The problem with flattening the arm further, you'll end up lengthening it, making the natural foot position awkward.

To keep the overall length equal, a shorter arm is needed. A slower arc beneath the foot peg may provide enough clearance too. Another option is an arm that is offset outboard of the pipe, then the toe tab is reversed (picture it welded on right edge looking down, hanging inboard). Make sense?

[calj737]

For clarity: the brake a pedal arm hangs on an actuator (that's the splined piece that passes thru the frame). Whatever mods are made, the brake pedal MUST be pushed down to work safely.

I can't get a clear look at the nut from your pic. Can you take a larger pic of that? My bike is custom on the brakes and rear sets, so I don't have live example in front of me, and it's damn cold outside where my manual is!

[brooze72]

You sure don't seem to have enough room under there to make a normal pedal work.  Calj's idea to bend it away (outwards) from the exhaust then back towards the peg with the pad welded on the opposite side is a good possibility I was also thinking about, he posted faster  .

[cb550fnewb]

ok here's closer view

If I pull bolt for adjusting pedal up and down. It hits the nut on left and metal braket that the bolt was in at the same time. I gain about a 1/4" but still no braking.  I had the bolt out earlier and didn't help so put it back in for safe keeping.

The two points of contact seem to limit anyway I bend the pedal up or down to gain any thing. No matter what I will have a 3/4" of open space between pedal and nut.  I believe I will have to come out to miss exhausted and/or nut.  Or move pedal to rear for heel.

[calj737]

Sorry, Brooze. I type as fast as you think...

Heel Braking is a No-Go! You'll end up @ss over tea kettle in an emergency stop.

How about some rear sets? Eliminates the 2 pedal issue? There is another option, don't recall which years this works on though, switch your foot pegs left-to-right. I seem to recall this raises the peg a bit and allows the arm to be raised to avoid conflict with the exhaust.

[cb550fnewb]

here what I am thinking. I need to come out about >1/2" to clear exhaust

its crude (made on paint)  but to give idea hard to get a picture directly from the top

[calj737]

Try this, let's extend the overall length of the spline cover. That will move the lever portion outboard. Then, the arm will run along the exhaust, but the toe portion will be welded toward the inboard side of the arm. Does that make sense?

[cb550fnewb]

Try this, let's extend the overall length of the spline cover. That will move the lever portion outboard. Then, the arm will run along the exhaust, but the toe portion will be welded toward the inboard side of the arm. Does that make sense?

Think I know what you mean.  If i can get it to move out that will be what I need.

[brooze72]

Try this, let's extend the overall length of the spline cover. That will move the lever portion outboard. Then, the arm will run along the exhaust, but the toe portion will be welded toward the inboard side of the arm. Does that make sense?

Yep, extension on the spline should help a lot of clearance issues, hopefully.  Maybe cut off an old one to weld to inner side of the original.