Topic: retore/touch up over winter

[calj737]

I've been re-reading this thread, and a thought just popped into my head; you say you arent getting any braking because travel is too limited. Have you also adjusted the brake rod arm (connects at rear wheel, spring tensioned on the rod that connects to the actuator) to test that you have brakes?

To do this, raise the rear wheel (center stand, lift, wheel chock) and spin the wheel. Then manually move the brake arm at the rear wheel. This should stop the wheel. Please confirm this portion is working, then we can continue on the travel/pipe conflict.

*the reason I'm asking! you should get some braking pretty quickly with the arm! even though there's conflict. The nut at the rear of your pic actually prevents the arm from being pulled too far back by the return spring. The should be a limiter farther forward to prevent over-travel, perhaps in front of the lower engine hangar bolt? Or your return spring (coil wrapped around the arm and pinned to frame) will return the arm to de-brake, if you will. That's where the limiter nut comes in...

[cb550fnewb]

I've been re-reading this thread, and a thought just popped into my head; you say you arent getting any braking because travel is too limited. Have you also adjusted the brake rod arm (connects at rear wheel, spring tensioned on the rod that connects to the actuator) to test that you have brakes?

To do this, raise the rear wheel (center stand, lift, wheel chock) and spin the wheel. Then manually move the brake arm at the rear wheel. This should stop the wheel. Please confirm this portion is working, then we can continue on the travel/pipe conflict.

*the reason I'm asking! you should get some braking pretty quickly with the arm! even though there's conflict. The nut at the rear of your pic actually prevents the arm from being pulled too far back by the return spring. The should be a limiter farther forward to prevent over-travel, perhaps in front of the lower engine hangar bolt? Or your return spring (coil wrapped around the arm and pinned to frame) will return the arm to de-brake, if you will. That's where the limiter nut comes in...

did this tire stops fine on stand, but can easily turn it by hand when pressed all the way down until hits exhaust. And if bike is rolling has very little to no braking affect. Tested it rolling it with my feet so only like 2 to 5 mph had no affect.  If I tighten it anymore then the brake drags until it wears down and ends up same as before, nothing. 

I messed with on my ride today.

[cb550fnewb]

ok moved petal out 3/4"on actuator.

This Puts it right on the edge of the actuator. And gives me enough clearance to miss exhaust. and will press down about 2" and locks tire up fine.

here's photo to make sure I understood.


(removed cannibalizing another pedal thinking about it definitely weaker than lengthening spline)

[brooze72]

So calj's idea will work, extension on the inner spline end of the arm & switch the foot pad to the inner side of the pedal.  Problem solved!

[cb550fnewb]

So calj's idea will work, extension on the inner spline end of the arm & switch the foot pad to the inner side of the pedal.  Problem solved!

Took spline out and looks like a spacer will be best bet.  Think 3/4" will give me the enough for proper braking.

[calj737]

Yeah, just to be clear, I'd weld a spacer to the end of the spline that sits outside the actuator housing. This leaves the machined surfaces in tact. Then, the arm operates in the same way, just in a new horizontal plane outside the exhaust.

I think this will require modifying the toe tab. Certainly you want that element directly in front of your foot for optimum safety and control. Double-check that with the arm moved outboard, will the tab still be wide enough (once cut and re-welded on its right edge) to reside in front of the peg.

If all this will work, I'll dig through my spares and see about fab'ing one up for you. (I just hope my eldest son didn't throw them away last weekend while we cleaned up the most recent teardown...)

[cb550fnewb]

Yeah, just to be clear, I'd weld a spacer to the end of the spline that sits outside the actuator housing. This leaves the machined surfaces in tact. Then, the arm operates in the same way, just in a new horizontal plane outside the exhaust.

I think this will require modifying the toe tab. Certainly you want that element directly in front of your foot for optimum safety and control. Double-check that with the arm moved outboard, will the tab still be wide enough (once cut and re-welded on its right edge) to reside in front of the peg.

If all this will work, I'll dig through my spares and see about fab'ing one up for you. (I just hope my eldest son didn't throw them away last weekend while we cleaned up the most recent teardown...)

Okay, when i move pedal 3/4" on the actuator, it moves the toe pad exact same amount 3/4" (makes since, right)  so to get to its original position it needs moved 3/4".

But (there's always a but) when i move it out the pedal it is more centered on my foot.  With my large feet (size 13 in the boots I normally wear for riding),  the original position feels to far in.  When I move it out, it feels like i have a better pedal control and more natural.

So not sure if the toe pad needs modified.

Curious, how you will modify the spacer to except the pedal? (I am confident that you have a pretty good Idea, already)

[calj737]

My initial thoughts (without looking at the arm) are to cut the arm from the cylinder and then weld it to the outside edge essentially.

While I'm at it, I Could flatten the arm, thereby lengthening it a bit to better fit your foot. Still pulling the pad inboard to avoid any conflict while riding (concerned about width and scraping should you get too sporty!). Thoughts?

[cb550fnewb]

ok looked at it that will give me the right distance out but would definitely need to be straighten to make it longer because how it sits now pretty far back on my foot.

A idea (similar to cutting pedal and welding to outside edge) is to cut a share pedal off the part that hooks to the actuator and weld my pedal to it after trimming it to 3/4" (take out side off so bolt would still lineup) I wouldn't lose length this way. Downfall is one pedal gets complete destroyed to be used on the other.

Not a welder and not sure which one would be easier and/or stronger.

here's photo I made on paint to give an image

[calj737]

Located one of my spares. Is your arm offset like this one? Picture is from bottom.

[cb550fnewb]

nope mines straight until the upward bend then slowly angles out.

Looks that makes an easier solution.

[calj737]

PM me your address. I'll send this out and you can try it. If it needs further mods, send it back and we can adapt it. This way, your original stays in tact should you restore the exhaust pipes to stock units.

[cb550fnewb]

ok its on its way.

Thanks for all the help!

[cb550fnewb]

got helicoils today and fixed threads for my exhaust studs. It worked perfectly, just a little price for the little coils.

I just got to wait for Moab's honda shop to get my studs and nuts in to finish it up.  Hoping the new brace rings I bought will seal up again.

[cb550fnewb]

If you want to "restore" the tank's original paint, you can carefully wet sand it. Start with 1000-1200 paper. Then go to 2000. Then buff with a good quality polish. I've done a dozen or so this way.

I always wipe the tank down with Denatured Alcohol first to remove any contaminants. Then, I use a clay bar to clean the clear coat (only the green metallic areas of your tank are clear coated, the black is not).

Then I go to the paper steps. Be very careful over the black, only use the 2000 stage there, just a very light scuff that the buffing will remove.

This won't remove the deep scratch, but it will soften it, and the rest of your tank will gleam!

Here's a sunrise orange I did for someone recently that was in the same or worse condition as yours.

Calj737,
 
Any recommendation on what polish to go with. I finally found some 2000 gr sand paper and detailing clay, but not sure best polish to use on paint.  Hopefully, I will get some good results. 

thanks

[calj737]

If you have a good buffer, you can really use Meguiars Sratch-X or Mothers Ultmate Compund. Follow either with a good Carnuba wax. If you are doing it manually, then Sratch-X with a clean microfiber or if you can find one, a small foam detailing pad.