Topic: Toustic's CB550F - A Swiss' first build

[Toustic]

So.... I got to do a couple of things

Shoutout a Stev-o for giving me the courage to just chisel and pound the hell out of that old bearing



This as deep as it will go


Looks right... but is it...



Alright.. here is the s**** part... For the life of me I can't get the swingarm back on the frame...
It obviously has clearance without the dust caps, but not so much that you can fit one on either side. I've tried and am now at a loss for methods.




Anyways, Hope you're having a fine Tuesday Gentlemen

[calj737]

You mY need to remove some paint or powder coat, whichever it is, on the inside of the swing arm bosses. Perhaps the thickness of that paint is preventing the dust caps? Or are your swing arm bushings not fully seated?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You mY need to remove some paint or powder coat, whichever it is, on the inside of the swing arm bosses. Perhaps the thickness of that paint is preventing the dust caps? Or are your swing arm bushings not fully seated?

I was thinking it might be the swingarm bushings having a slight gap.  You may want to use a rubber mallet with a 2x4 board on the opposite side.

[Toustic]

You mY need to remove some paint or powder coat, whichever it is, on the inside of the swing arm bosses. Perhaps the thickness of that paint is preventing the dust caps? Or are your swing arm bushings not fully seated?

I was thinking it might be the swingarm bushings having a slight gap.  You may want to use a rubber mallet with a 2x4 board on the opposite side.

Why Hello,

So, basically tried as if both were the issue.

Sanded the the swing arm bosses, and pounded in the bushing as deep as they would go.


It fit but it went with much difficulty, and it's worse when I put the bolt in... It basically stays up in the air in any position. I greased it good prior to but not moving well.

As I'm rebuilding the bike, I notice that the lock nuts from rear axle and wing arm were messed up bad, ordered some new ones.. Not much to do while I wait for a fork a shift drum pin to arrive in the mail to keep rebuilding the rest of the clutch.

In regards to rebuilding the top end of the engine, I have been looking around, and have come to the conclusion that the best option was for me to send it to CycleXchange, and have them perform the task, and installing their gear on it. This is gonna set me back a lot of cash but it will be a fine piece of the engine that won't lose its worth anytime soon.

I've put some stuff together to see how it would look and if I'm heading the right way:

37T JT rear sprocket is getting on (just bolted temporarily while bolts, oil seal arrive in the mail, and I pain the sprocket cover)
And I can't seem to find a 92X2 ring for the rear, cmsnl is out. Is that a big of an O-ring?


17T JT front sprocket installed


Getting familiar with the rear train


I'm ok with the stance - I wanted to wait for the bike to be put back together to this point to decide if I was happy with the seat's proportions, and design, and I gotta say, I'm half way there.




I do want the front fender on, because It will balance the chrome and black proportions, and let's be real. It rains out of the a** around here, so I don't need to get my bike and self muddy just cause it looks pretty cool bare haha.



Lastly, As I was tearing down the top cover to sand, prime and paint it, I realize that my flair for finding expensive parts that are broken to pieces is getting finer and finer...
I literally just unscrewed the bolt and the tach gear cap just fell apart. The tach gear was missing to begin with, and I don't know how long it has been since this last showed RPMs. Looks like a costly package to get from what I see online 



Trying to figure this out at the moment... trying to find out what my shopping list is, the old cables are damaged and rotten.


Anyways, hope you all had a fine weekend of riding for those who have an actual working motorcycle 

Cheers,
Sebastien

[rb550four]

  Your bike is looking good.
Last summer I ordered a tach cap from honda, it took weeks to get , old stock,came from another dealer on the west coast. It was like $45 for the part and another $30 for all the shipping ....and I was happy to get it.
   I don't know of any  substitute for it and availability for that item was poor then.

[calj737]

I have a gear for a 550 or a 500. Regrettably, my cap is also broken, but you are welcome to them. PM for arrangements if you're interested.

[Maurice]

Would JB weld work? It's not like it's a high-stress vital part. It looks like it could probably just hold with a bit of pressure? The gear inside is not the tightest fit and I doubt it'd want to spin the housing part much.

[strynboen]

there are oil and vibresions...so jb veld..or any glue..can not hold there.if a standart komponent cant hold..a" fixed "cant either.i tryed tig weld..but the casting are not "weldbare"abel...wiking english....

so i machined a new piese...aut of a block massive bronce/brazz...
it easyer to make a dummy to plug the hole..if rpm..meters not are used

the sentrum hole are 7 mm..so any mascinist can made one for you..but you need that drive vith teeth and a oilsealing..
that part to hold the cabel are a bit komplicated...so i make just a schrev(or 2) from side inn.to fix it..and fit a kontra to fixed it/or lockteit it

[MoMo]

Way better than stock strynboen, very nice...Larry

[Maurice]

There you go, easy

[Toustic]

Hi Guys,

First of all, I'm actually mind blown by how easy strynboen makes it sound. On a more realistic note, machinists ask for big bucks here when it's a one off, and I can't afford to get any kind of machining work done around these parts of the map. Best shot would be to have it made in the States and sent here.

Secondly, I've disappeared for a while again. I don't give up, that's not happening, but I'm held back with parts, shipping, and finding the right people from a distance. Add to that the fact that the shop/local I was using is not for me to use anymore. It's a bit frustrating but it's what it is, and it's a good learning experience.

Back to the real business...

I still haven't figured out the tach gear cap matter, but I'f found the tach gear online at least.

I did however, despite struggling with the cylinder head question, found a way to move forward.

Big thanks to Ken at CycleExchange for hooking me up with an amazing work. He's a great dude, and know what he's talking about. I'm very happy to have pulled the trigger on it.

KPMI (std) Valves, Spring set, and valve job







Also had to order to break lines, because the stock ones were cut to the fiber.
Galfer it is... which I requested to come in a deep black at purchase because stainless steel lines are not allowed on bikes that are not factory-built with them (easier for cops to spot them in clear than black obviously), but somehow this ebayer manages to send me the standard clear ones. I'm just going to paint them... it'll give me the illusion I worked for it haha




Anyway, I'm back to working on the engine.


Put a little coper paste on the edge of the gasket

So, here I am thinking that I did it right.. till I realised the whole thing was backwards... Of course..



Anywho... I take it off, and redo it again... Cam timed, and feeling quite a bit of pride in my heart not going to lie.











YES SIR

I received a package today. The sender may recognise his creation now 
Yes, I am a man of my word, why do you ask?




Lastly, I'm trying to figure out the wiring on the Dyna coils. Not sure how to transfer the cables from the original coils to the new ones.



I'm not comfortable with many things at first, but electrical is definitely something I'm out of my comfort zone with. I looked all over the place and can't seem to find a schematic/diagram that I'd feel comfortable following. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

I know I'm not reinventing the wheel here, and getting much of the stuff done the easy way. But I do believe the reason why I do it is more important than the how I do it, and even if I end up with "one more" CB550, she sure as s*** will be my pride and joy..

....And let's face it, she's the only CB550 in town, so how hard is it to stand out at this point 

Thanks for your time guys.

Cheers,
SD

[calj737]

You need plug wires, the factory ones won't transfer easily unless you cut them and then add new boots to attach to the coils. Spend the $25 and buy new wires and save the headaches.

[Toustic]

I'm back from the virtually dead once again.

Hope all is swell for your all, and that you get to spin some rubber.

I've been struggling with making time for all things in my life, but still managed to show the 550 some love.

i've been held back by some parts sourcing. I guess I'll know better for next time but like (I assume) most of us, I also have to wait for paychecks to get parts, so, progress takes a kick in the groin.

I will post all pictures that I've been taking and make it look like I know what I'm doing.

Yours Humbly,
Toustic


I think I got this right...




Also my first time doing this


She's her heart back


Moving to a garage I found in town (5 mins walking from my apartment. With running water and power). And apparently I was too eager cause I forgot I hadn't taken out the clutch rod. Lost it during transport (2 weeks to get a "new" one).


There it is


I found an aluminium seat base


Don't really know where I'm going with this but we'll see...


Exhaust on, and did a bit of wiring. Don't know for sure I did all this right




I keep mocking it up to see if I should do certain things. Here is the 2nd front fender holder.


Time for the juice




Here is the the bike I've bought as a daily rider. 81 XV750, Runs perfect. I got it for 600$ from an old man who had 20+ bikes from the 20s to the 70s (mine being a friend's bike he was helping him sell), Nortons, Tritons, BSA's, all running and maintained. He had a trio of CX500 and told him I need first right of refusal on the sale. Anyways, that's her:





Back to my Honda4... I'm having this issue with the clutch plate. I did get the bolt tighter. and it actually turns the engine over, but as soon as I try to put on the clutch cover, and bolt it tight, it does this exact same thing.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/Toustic/media/20140523_205242_zpse4bbdf31.mp4.html



I have tried to close it back up anyways, and start the engine. I've had no success. I'm sure I've done a few things wrong, but not sure what, and considering this is my first, I'm not sure to have the skills to to put the finger on it. So yeah, it's been a big bummer.


http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/Toustic/media/20140615_170756_zps1c918d93.mp4.html

I pulled out the carbs. and the floats on 2 of them were dry. N°1 (from the left on the picture) was bone dry and N°3 was fairly dry.


Oh, and since I have to get it registered, I have to put the stock gear back on till it's cleared, I can get the other seat prepped and upholstered in the meantime.


Anyways.. that is the update on my yo-yo affair with this bike

Ride safe,
Seb

[rb550four]

Good to see that you are back, I was wondering how you were doing with that machine. Looks good.
 What isn't it doing to make it start, besides the non  fuel flow to 2 carbs?  any other issues?

[Stev-o]

The no-fuel issue could be a wrong float setting.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I like the new aluminum seat choice. 

[Toustic]

Good to see that you are back, I was wondering how you were doing with that machine. Looks good.
 What isn't it doing to make it start, besides the non  fuel flow to 2 carbs?  any other issues?

@rb550four
@Stev-o

I'm very unsure as to why I'm off. Maybe I got the timing wrong on the points, Maybe I'm lacking a spark, and maybe something off with the carbs (the bike was starting before I took them off, and haven't touched them since besides draining the bowls - 8 months). I have replaced my dried up silicon fuel lines for on of these black rubber lines, therefore I'm not too sure it flows right.

I tried to look for a checklist, but not quite sure how to actually verify all this. How can I make sure my Coils/points/plugs setup is sound? I have a multimeter handy in case it can help my case.

How can I troubleshoot this myself...? I'm the proud kind, so I'd like to think I don't have to take the bike to a mechanic to watch it start for the first time. After all the hours and bills I've put in, I want that honor for my own selfish self (well... and Y'alls help of course, but just as rewarding).

@CB750 Cafe Racer Fan - Thank you. I thought it was fitting, tho I'm not completely sold on the shape. May bend and grind here and there to make it a little less "straight."

Trying to sketch color schemes that features the old, but while looking very clean and sleek...


Thanks in advance for your insight.

Best,
Seb

[Toustic]

Alright... So, I was wondering if I was getting a spark at all..

because she really feels like she should start 
So I was looking over all my pictures on my phone and saw that my coils / spark plug order is off. Could that be part of my problem?



I think I have a dead battery too. Been letting it sit too long it looks like... it doesn't take a charge and dies after only a few seconds trying to start... 

Anyways, I'd like to know if It might be it.

[Stev-o]

You need a fully charged battery for spark, 12+ volts. I cannot make out your plug wiring, but one coil goes to #1&4 and the other 2&3.
Confirm you are getting fuel flow out the the tank first, then work your way down.

[seanbarney41]

Alright... So, I was wondering if I was getting a spark at all..

because she really feels like she should start 
So I was looking over all my pictures on my phone and saw that my coils / spark plug order is off. Could that be part of my problem?



I think I have a dead battery too. Been letting it sit too long it looks like... it doesn't take a charge and dies after only a few seconds trying to start... 

Anyways, I'd like to know if It might be it.

looks like you have the rh coil wired to cylinder 3 and 4...it's not gonna start like that.  See Steve-O's post above.

[Tews19]

I really like the seat. Where did you get it?

[Toustic]

I really like the seat. Where did you get it?

For you and those intersted:

http://www.bedlamwerks.com/


So. It appears that my battery was dead the whole time. Thought it was just low on charge, but it doesn't take one. After 36hrs charging, it doesn't go above 12.1V and displays as blinking/empty.

In hopes that's the problem I actually have, I'm gonna try and get my hands on a new battery.

And I'm still having the same issue with the clutch. It slips and won't turn the engine over. The kick doesn't engage and just spins freely.
Anybody has a useful tip in regards to the tightening of the clutch plate bolts?

Also, I'm not getting a neutral switch light.

That's the story of my failing so far.

[Tews19]

Hey Toustic, I was looking at your cam alignment. I recently went through this too. I noticed your cam notch looks to be in the right space but your advancer is showing it on fire. If I recall correctly the members here told me it needs to be on T.... I could be wrong but that's how I aligned mine. I have yet to start mine though.

[Toustic]

Hello,

I'm gonna lose it...

I do feel like my cam timing is spot on, with the notch at 3 o'clock, and on the T.

I got a new battery, all the juice it needs but I'm not getting a spark. I have unscrewed the spark plug, shoved it in the cap, and held the thread against my cylinder head.. I'm not seeing it. I'm assuming that I should see a spark, regardless of timing, and regardless of my points correct?

Since I'm not getting a spark, I'm just wondering where the F*%& I went wrong. I genuinely though I had done it all right.

Those of you who are patient enough to take on this case, thank you in advance.

Best,
Seb

[strynboen]

do you have 12 volt posetiv+ at the coil...vhen the key are turnded on..then it vil kick..vhen you take a small schrevdriver and open the platin ..it kicks vhen it opens....it are a simpel test ..so try to thange the viring at the coil..and do the knicker trix...
it must work..if there are power on the coils...