Make sure you are testing two HT leads off the same coil (1 & 4) or (2 & 3). If they are still open circuit, remove the spark plug caps and test directly into the metal core of the HT leads.
Kev
So...
I was testing the electrical and what now, because let's face it, what else am I supposed to do?
Turns out that I'm getting a 16K+ reading when putting the probes straight into the HT leads on both coils as well as a 4.8 OHMS reading on each, just nothing at the spark plug dust cap.
The problem I have with that, is that I'm not getting any reading at the B/W splice terminal of the wiring harness (subsequently the one from the off/run/off switch), regardless if the switch is on off or run (or off):
But I'm getting a reading at the coils' grounds:
As well as at the actual point's wiring:
So I think my problem lies here:
But since both screws are completely eaten, I can't disassemble the switch.
I've been looking up way to tell if you're stuck on the off position, but can't seem to find anything that's more CB specific (3 position switch), somehow most videos and instructions are based on ATVs and MX bikes... More recently a leaf blower owner was apparently very eager to find out what was wrong with his spark.
Anyways, that's another episode of my bike still at a standstill in the spark department.
Best,
Seb
ps: Sometimes the actual switch housing gets very hot after the ignition has been on for a little bit or when trying to crank it over a few times. Too much resistance? Corrosion?
