Topic: CB500 Cold Start

[sammermpc]

I was hoping some of the old-timers could explain the mysteries of 'starting' to me. I've got a '72 CB500 which, since a hard-rain this summer (I think), has been pretty tough to start cold. For awhile, it seemed like a bad battery -- but I got a new one and keep it on the tender. It holds charge.

I've gone through most of the 3k maintenance -- the main remaining item is to check the points -- I'm saving the carbs for last.

I guess my main question, is, what's the basic plan of attack for resolving cold start issues? I know it's one of the most common issues on these forums, but I was hoping someone could give me an overview, as I'm not sure what factors specifically effect starting. Do valve clearances matter? Points timing? It also doesn't kick easily -- I've seen some people talking about kicking 30+ times. I'm always worried I'll be busting something -- should I not be?

My bike's got stock airbox, replaced the filter, adjusted the valves, camchain, cleaned up the electric and starter solenoid (haven't checked the starter switch, which it could be iffy). Haven't touched the carbs.

[Stev-o]

It's quite possible that your slow jets are clogged. 

Also check that your choke is functioning properly. 

My 550 like full choke and no throttle when doing cold start up. 

What is your procedure?

[LesterPiglet]

What do you mean it doesn't kick easily? Do you need to really stamp on the kicker to turn the engine or is it just hard to get it running?

(My)Starting Procedure for Honda CB550

[CB500_k2]

This works for my rather cold blooded CB 500.  1. Gas on. 2. choke on full, 3. shut off spark with kill switch, 4. open throttle full and allow bike to crank for about 5 seconds to get gas into cylinders, 5. reconnect ignition with kill switch, 6. open throttle a bit, not full open, 6. start machine.

[Clasico]

......

I've gone through most of the 3k maintenance -- the main remaining item is to check the points -- I'm saving the carbs for last......

Check the points, plugs and timing, if they are not well adjusted the spark might not be good enough!

My cold start procedure
- full choke
- 1/8 gas
- push starter

Good luck

[Chachi]

What plugs are you using? Maybe check gap and put fresh ones in and check resistor cap connections, etc.

I only had one other bike to compare it to, but my 500 was more difficult to start cold than my dad's 68 450 twin. It was especially more difficult in the winter or if I had let it sit for more than a week.

I would do this...
-Fuel on
-Choke on
-Key on
-With kill switch off, kick a few times with a little throttle
-Then kill switch on, start normal - electric or kick
-If really cold or had been sitting for a while, I'd nurse the choke level for up to a minute if needed, but then off

I would always be geared up and ready to go. Once it was started I would just ride off and let the first few minutes of riding out of the neighborhood warm the bike up before I hit the road. I didn't use the throttle lock and typically by the first stop light or so it would be warmed up and idling fine. When the weather was warmer and the bike wouldn't sit as long, it was not as difficult to start, but even often in warm weather I'd have to use choke to get it started. It was way different than the 450 twin. That thing always starts right up quick. No process, no nursing.

[Chachi]

Basically same thing CB500_k2 said already.

[bjatwood]

Yup, kick her a few time with the gas and choke on to 'prime" it. Then use the starter and Vroom, you go. But, I will say below 30 degrees things to and will get a bit sketchy as far as light off... So I shoot for 40 degree garage temp as a minimum for a cold start...

[LesterPiglet]

I live in the dampest conditions. Nothing stops my bike starting. Somedays it needs more choke but it would never need 20 kicks (if I had a kicker). As long as the battery is fully charged my bike starts real quick
.
If you have never cleaned the carbs thoroughly before, do it now, or do it over again later.
I cannot stress this point enough as it's really a pain removing those carbs over and over.
The carbs aren't a big deal, just time consuming.

Get new pugs/filters/oil/points. Time those points....adjust yer tappets. Sync yer carbs.
My bike is standard airbox  with a Motad 4/1 zorst.

[TwoTired]

I was hoping some of the old-timers could explain the mysteries of 'starting' to me. I've got a '72 CB500 which, since a hard-rain this summer (I think), has been pretty tough to start cold. ...

I've gone through most of the 3k maintenance -- the main remaining item is to check the points -- ...

If there is water under the points cover, it interferes with point operation.  The stock cork cover gasket is one time compression use at best.  One made from neoprene is reusable and seals better.  I made my first one over 20 years ago, and it still keeps the point compartment dry in the rain to this day.  Need spark to start.  Poor spark = poor starting.

Having said that, I don't feel anyone has a right to complain about engine start/run issues, until the entire 3K tune up schedule is completed.  Just sayin...

[riverfever]

I had similar issues with my 500 and also wanted to put off carbs until the last possible moment. While I'm sure that the 3,000 mile tune up helped, I noticed a huge improvement after I rebuilt the carbs. I'm amazed it ran at all.

[sammermpc]

Thanks for the thoughts -- yes, I haven't dealt with the plugs or timing. I haven't done it before and it was running & starting fairly well until recently -- but I've been reading up on it and I'll give it a shot this weekend. That'll at least take one thing off the list if it doesn't solve the matter. I've got new plugs and plug caps in the mail, per recommendations on other threads.

I have adjusted the valves and I didn't notice it wet beneath the points cover, but I'll take another look.

By 'hard' to start, I mean that it doesn't start without a whole lot of effort, a ton of kicks, and a fresh battery, and a bit of magic dust -- the engine turns over easily.

I actually haven't gotten it going in about three weeks, so I am worried that it'll just get harder from here on out.

[Mo]

Lest I start an oil debacle, I find that 5-15w helps start in the winter. The lower viscosity in the oil makes it easier for the engine to turn over when cold cold cold...