Topic: 12v into on switch 10v coming out / Alternator wire question

[zeech]

Trying to debug the power problems with my CL350. After ripping out all wiring except what's necessary for the bike to run, I'm getting 12v hot fused from the battery to the key in, but when it's turned on and I measure it, I'm only getting 10v out 

Does this mean the switch is bad? Or is there something else that could be sucking the volts away?

The wiring from the previous owner is so bad it's terrifying. I'll be rewiring it all from scratch, but trying to get it working better first. Thanks for any help.


Now a question about alternator wires... the white wire from the alternator used to go to the headlight switch (which I've removed for always on) and the headlight didn't seem like it wanted to stay on when riding, do I need to keep this white wire run up there? I also have an extra yellow wire from the alternator that ran to the switch as well, but I'm not sure what it did. What are those 2 wires supposed to be wired to if I've removed the switch?

[Don R]

It sounds like a little resistance in the switch. Some can be taken apart, cleaned up and re-assembled. New harnesses are available for the bigger bikes, I wonder about yours?

 Possibly adding a relay could help.

[calj737]

Zeech - sounds like the switch is the problem. Can you take it apart and clean it?

Before rewriting, consider running the MotoGadget M-unit. Very nice, very elegant, and super simple. Costs about $300 but if it solves electrical issues, gremlins, PO hacks! well worth it to me in my book. Everything connects at front to a "concentrator" then a single wire to rear located controller. Done.

[brewsky]

How much are you getting "in" when the switch is turned on?

[raymond10078]

How much are you getting "in" when the switch is turned on?

+1.  The load itself could be pulling the battery output voltage down (if the battery is weak, the load is too high, or a high resistance connection elsewhere in the circuit) - and the switch could be fine.

[zeech]

How much are you getting "in" when the switch is turned on?

12v+

I'm still tracking down bad wiring etc. Random question... the white wire from the alternator used to go to the headlight switch (which I've removed for always on) and the headlight didn't seem like it wanted to stay on when riding, do I need to keep this white wire run up there? I also have an extra yellow wire from the alternator that ran to the switch as well, but I'm not sure what it did. Can't I just run the headlight off the battery after the ignition switch?

[zeech]

Still looking for clarity on alternator wires. Thanks!

[raymond10078]

The white wire from the alternator provides extra power to the system when the headlight was on.  That's why is routed to the switch.  Switch on, the white was connected to the yellow - more power to the electrical system.  Switch off, less power.  It is a system with two output power levels.

If you are going to an "always on" headlight, then no, you don't need the white or yellow wires going to the front of the bike.  The yellow wire connects to both the regulator and the rectifier.  All you need to do is to tie the yellow and white wires together at some convenient point.  That way, you'll have the both power outputs on with your always on headlight.

[zeech]

Great, thanks for the explanation on those kandrtech.

So I just need to wire the now extra white and yellow together back by the reg/rect and I should be good to go?

[raymond10078]

All you need to do is to tie the yellow and white wires together at some convenient point.

Yes.