Topic: Some questions or concerns about installing engine covers...

[cakey]

Just about to button up the covers on the engine rebuild and I am a bit confused about the correct process to get a good leak free install of covers such as rocker cover, stator cover etc...

In my previous experience just new gasket and clean surfaces normally suffice but reading posts on here and Hondamans book it looks like cover can be reinstalled using different forms of gasket sealant.

I have all new screw sets from David Silvers so they have the original look. As they are generally 6mm I think? I thought it would be a good idea to torque wrench each screw to 100 inch lbs. sound about right?

Would it be best to use 3 bond on the exhaust side of the rocker cover gasket or just rely on it not leaking with the new gasket? How about the rest of the cover gaskets should I use sealant on the bottom half of each gasket? I don't want to risk getting gasket goo in the oil galleries so I am concerned.

I would like to try and get it right to start with and other peoples experience would have a lot do do with my decision. Thanks

[Wobbly]

new gasket and clean surfaces normally suffice

Indeed they do.

[martin99]

I usually use blue Hylomar on those gaskets, just a thin smear on both sides for peace of mind. But that's just me.

Personally I wouldn't torque those case screws - 'snug plus a bit more' usually does it for me.

[dave500]

dont torque any 6mm screw or bolt,just nip them down then recheck them later.

[bjbuchanan]

Don't torque the 6mm's, you will just end up helicoiling everything. My valve cover gasket I put a thin swipe of permatex non hardening sealant on the outer edges of the gasket. I use a qtip to do it. Go very light, I only do it because my valvecover surfaces aren't perfect, little dents here and there

The other stuff don't put anything on, you really shouldn't have to

[cakey]

Thanks guys appreciate the response. The gist of it is do not torque the screws and maybe only a bit of sealant on the valve cover.

[Don R]

If you have a flat surface and a piece of fine wet or dry you can check the rocker cover for flatness by sanding it and looking at the marks. There is a metal gasket with a rubber coating, I may get one for my chromed cover, it's a notoriuos leaker.

[mick7504]

I've used this stuff before.
It's good on head gaskets as well prior to assembly.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/coppergasketcement

[Stev-o]

+1 - no sealant and don't torque the engine side covers. Make sure the surfaces are super clean and tighten the screws equally around the perimeter. 
Remember, the cases are soft aluminum, they can strip easily.

[fdbrat]

Use some anti seize too. It will save you a head ache latter on.

[lucky]

Gasket sealer like Hondabond or the original Gaskacinch or the other copy cat, Yamabond
on the engine side.

Then a light coat of  Vasaline on the cover side.
Then when you want to remove the cover it does not tear up the gasket.

[dave500]

some of the aftermarket gasket kits have those oring rubber gaskets that seem to thin and inconsistant in their diameter?ive had them that when placed in the groove they only just sit pround of the surface,too shallow and they leak,if that happens i discard the gasket and use gasket maker to replicate the o ring in the groove and let it cure for an hour,then install it,never a leak.

[cakey]

Have not come across any of them yet Dave but have been checking the specs with the callipers as I go along. It's been 2 days I thinks since I started the thread and I have not got one cover on yet. Been going two steps forward and once step back along the way.

Spent a lot of time researching the clutch spring base washers which I have since found out are non existent for my model.

Had the clutch pack in and out about four time to get it right. Each time I put it in I found I had forgotten something like the sharp edges on the steel plates etc. etc. etc.

On the last time I torqued up the clutch plate and realised I had forgotten to bend over the tab on the lock washer, took it off then re did it and broke the clutch pressure plate the second time around.

Off to the ally welders tomorrow to try and fix it.

Realised I forgot the little o ring under the shift pass for the oil gallery (when I reading a random post on the Hondaman clutch hub mods). So had to uninstall everything to out that little sucker.

I am going to get this thing done I swear.

Anyone had any luck welding the clutch pressure plate to fix it?

[mick7504]

Here's a new one on Ebay in Wagga Wagga for 100 bucks mate.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-PARTS-CB750-1968-1978-LIFT-PLATE-CLUTCH-/121235778185?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3a372a89

They snap like carrots when they're not drawn in evenly and also locate squarely on the lugs Rob.
How do I know you ask. 

[AJK]

Hi Cakey,

I use just a (real thin smear) of permatex non-hardening gasket goo. Some say dry (use nothing), others say use a thin smear of grease (makes it removable for future use). Chose a flavor.

Like everyone says, just snug, but if you have access to a baby torque wrench like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Torque-Wrench-Allen-Key-Tool-Socket-Set-Kit-/150765303513

then just set it to 6NM and let it click. 6NM is a nice setting, both gentle on the threads & leak free. You won't damage anything & it won't leak. This assumes hex bolts (not screws) of course.

When tightening bolts, torquing down, go in a cris-cross pattern on the alternator & gear cover. On the rocker gasket, follow a similar pattern style to that of a head gasket. I.e. So the gasket is pushed from the inside to outer edges. <--  -->
 So start from the middle and work outwards, like you would a head gasket. Try and torque evenly to apply equal pressure on all bolts/screws (this minimises chance of leaks).

PS: Use a little wax and grease remover on all metal surfaces and clean up with a razor or wet'n'dry if necessary so everythings flush.

[cakey]

Got the clutch plate ally welded and repaired today along with the broken fin on my oil filter cover. The clutch plate went on fine this time and I breathed a sigh of relief

Got the clutch cover and rocker covers on sing the copper gasket spray. Great stuff

All new screws and just synced them up. I had all the head  6mm threads helicoils so nice and strong.

Won't be long now and I can get it in the frame. Appreciate all the advice so far.

When installing transmission  and stator covers is there any tricks to running the wiring or anything before I start and also if I put the covers on can I install the starter motor afterwards. Do I have to remove cam chain tensioner to fit the starter again it does not seam to fit in without possibly doing this?

[cakey]

Went to install the generator cover and thought something was odd with the case on the generator where the big hole is. A search on CSMNL shows there being a oil path plug and o ring in that area. Does anyone have a picture of one? Is it rubber or metal? There was never one there. I have gone through my baggies of stuf and found nothing. Honda said they are discontinued, does anyone have a source for them? Can you use them second hand.

Also while I was looking at the starter pics on CSMNL I realised I missed the new oil seal on the gear behind the rotor so I need to take the rotor off to change it. Hondamans book says to use the front wheel axle but I am sure it does not fit and is too small does anyone have the thread size?

Sorry for all the questions.

[cakey]

Yep here is a picture of when I removed the cover and there definitely is no plug. Is this ven possible or would the motor destroy itself?

Also rear axle did not work to pull the rotor either so after the thread size if possible so I can go grab a bolt.

[mick7504]

You'll need that plug to block off the oil gallery mate.
It looks like a small pulley to accommodate an o ring.

Here's a "hi tech"drawing to give you a bit of an idea with some sizes to work with but check the depth of the hole in the engine case first to make sure that the plug sits flush and not proud when it's installed.

A piece of round aluminium bar with an o ring groove cut into the centre should do the trick. (With an o ring fitted)

[Dream750]

Another option would be to try and locate a new or used plug.
 
Honda Part numbers from diagram:
 
#4, o-ring, size: 11 x 2.5, 91309-035-000
 
#5, plug, 15336-300-010

[cakey]

Another option would be to try and locate a new or used plug.
 
Honda Part numbers from diagram:
 
#4, o-ring, size: 11 x 2.5, 91309-035-000
 
#5, plug, 15336-300-010

Oring is easy enough to get but Honda have said that the part is no longer available. I need to check CSMNL and see if available.

You'll need that plug to block off the oil gallery mate.
It looks like a small pulley to accommodate an o ring.

Here's a "hi tech"drawing to give you a bit of an idea with some sizes to work with but check the depth of the hole in the engine case first to make sure that the plug sits flush and not proud when it's installed.

A piece of round aluminium bar with an o ring groove cut into the centre should do the trick. (With an o ring fitted)

Thanks for the dimensions Mick it gives me something to use as a worst case.

In my bike so far this is the first I have seen a part like this and to be honest I don't really get it. The opposite side on the cover has a recessed hole as well so why would they not use a dowel and an oring? Why would they block it off but still have the opposite hole in the cover? Am I missing something obvious here?

[cakey]

By the way on my searching I have found M20x1.5 as the thread size for the rotor puller. Hopefully correct as I will try the bolt shop tomorrow.

A few places mentioned using rear axle but it just does not fit and sounds like a bad idea and could cause damage anyway.

[Wobbly]

By the way on my searching I have found M20x1.5 as the thread size for the rotor puller. Hopefully correct as I will try the bolt shop tomorrow.

A few places mentioned using rear axle but it just does not fit and sounds like a bad idea and could cause damage anyway.

You can get the rotor puller from Honda, part # 07933-3000000.

[Wobbly]

Look here for the plug (about $ 5):

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k7-four-usa_model14395/plug-oil-path_15336300010/

[cakey]

Look here for the plug (about $ 5):

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k7-four-usa_model14395/plug-oil-path_15336300010/

The $5 is fine but the $45 delivery is a joke. I need to find another source.