Topic: Valve adjustment seems backwards...? UPDATE 3: Crank now stuck!

[AJK]

Hi Zeech,

Sorry to hear about the bent valve misfortune, but that is good news that you have a good bearing on where things are at now. Next go around you will be better at it and will have a sharper eye on all the detail. Take your time and do it right, check everything 3 times and don't precede if you have any doubts of your previous steps.

Let us know how you get on.

[zeech]

Will do. I'm still confused how it happened as I set ally valves, checked twice, cycled manually a few times to make sure everything looked good and fluid, which it was, then turned it on where it was running great, then after turning it off for 30 mins and back on to ride this happens right during acceleration.

So either the valve was messed up before and I didn't catch it, or the timing slipped. Seems like the former to me. Anyway, live and learn.

Turns out I have small cracks on the valves guides too. Not a massive deal but should be fixed. I heard people just getting new heads but that's no guarantee the next won't be bad either.

[Duanob]

Anybody that did not use a manual or conferred with this forum probably does not know about using rubber bands to hold the lifters out of the way. A PO probably did that, that's what happened to mine. As soon as I replaced the headgasket with my rebuilt head, new seals, guides, and valves, all the smoking went away.

[zeech]

Duanob: How much did it cost you to have the old guides pressed out and news ones pressed in?

[Duanob]

Duanob: How much did it cost you to have the old guides pressed out and news ones pressed in?

I got four used exhaust guides and valves from a member here. I think $50 delivered. Hard to believe how expensive these parts are! Especially new. Luckily the two wrecked valves and guides were both on the exhaust side. After that it was $180 to recondition the head at a reputable shop, cleaned, cut seats, lap valves to match, installed new seals, etc. I think it was worth the money, the bike runs like a well oiled japanese watch for about two years now.

FWIW about the confusion on the cam timing diagram: the lobes in the diagram are for the #1 cylinder and the notch is on the  #4 end of the motor. It took me a bit to figure that one out but if you read the paragraph it makes sense.

[zeech]

Okay thanks. About 6 of my guides have hairline or larger cracks. Ideally I'd get them fixed haha...

Used valves are very hard to come by, but I did just pick up an entire head for $30, all valves included! The head is messed up but all valves and springs should be good.

[Duanob]

Okay thanks. About 6 of my guides have hairline or larger cracks. Ideally I'd get them fixed haha...

Used valves are very hard to come by, but I did just pick up an entire head for $30, all valves included! The head is messed up but all valves and springs should be good.

Count yourself lucky you've got decent parts. 6 cracked guides is not good. You will be burning more oil than gasoline! If you feel confident in doing the work yourself then this will be good experience for you. I wanted to get my bike on the road so I went the machine shop route. plus I was tired of buying more and more tools just for a one time job. Good luck, keep the prize in mind; getting this thing on the road 

[zeech]

Well I've pretty much hit rock bottom.

Replaced the entire exhaust valve assembly on #1, readjusted all valves, everything was looking great, engine would cycle manually over and over very smoothly. Then when I went to start her up, same flipping thing happened, it cycled a few times then "clunk" everything stop instantly. It has to be another bent valve from hitting #1.

I don't get it and am at a complete loss, don't know why it's doing this when everything seems perfect and adjusted by the manual. I'm obviously doing something wrong.

Probably going to have to take it somewhere now. Merry flipping Christmas to me.

[dave500]

can you post a clear picture of the 1/4 t mark aligned and of the notch on the camshaft end?the standard way is with the 1/4 t mark setup the notch should face forward and horizontal or in plane with the head surface,it can also be set facing rearwards and horizontal aswell and be fine,get us a picture before you take it apart again,youll bend valves if the is set up wrongly.

[Red Good]

What motor is this ?

[zeech]

CB550 engine.

You know what fellas, seems I spoke too soon! Just the entire head off and tried to cycle the engine manually and it gets stuck a bit before coming to the 1.4..... I never had this problem before. Engine was cycling smoothly and now this. Ideas for how the crank could be stuck?

[dave500]

with the head off hold the cam chain up with say a socket extension bar through it and pull a little tension on it,now carefully rock the crankback and forth being sure the chain hasnt got bunched up down around the crank sprocket,the engine should turn over fully in any direction,be sure its not in gear.

maybe drop the pan to be sure the tensioner is located correctly in its little well,not like this one which is misscued.

[zeech]

Pretty sure this bolt that holds the crank down isn't  supposed to look like this...!!!!!! Holy. Hell.




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[dave500]

thats a bigend bolt lost its nut,drop the pan and find it,bummer man!

[zeech]

No nut in the drain pan, though it does look like a sluice box....... Also looks like the thin metal strips in the crank shaft are shot too.

Is this thing even worth it anymore.







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[zeech]

Bigend bolt.




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[dave500]

the nut will be around the forward section of the cases perhaps?better split that case open,wasnt torqued up maybe?

[goldarrow]

Bummer.

[AJK]

Hi Zeech,

Its always worth it man. When you get it back together it will give you lots of joy, so keep that in mind. You have a classic piece of machinery.

What you are experiencing is just life. Some days you are the bird, other days you are the statue.

Keep at it man, put it temporarily aside if it all gets too much, then come back to it when your ready. You'll be right. We've all been there. Everythings repairable.