Topic: '77 CB550F Various Questions

[RodPlunger]

Hi All,
I will put a few questions in one spot, and see if you can help me.... And yes, I have used the "search" function.

I want to re-lace the wheels. The front I can find spokes for no problem, but the rear seems to be somewhat of a pickle. After finding this post
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=71439.140;wap2
I am under the impression that the 77's are a little unique. Has anyone found a set of SS or Cadmium spokes to fit a 1977 CB550F Rear Hub? Yes, I can buy OEM, but for $2+ a spoke, that is a little much. Plus, they are not SS or cadmium.

Tongued Washers... How do I remove/ work around/ properly bend the tongued washers that hold the rear sprocket to the wheel? I don't really want to trash them in the removal process. I have looked, but have not come across a decent answer. Most references are "when I finally figured out how to undo them" blah, blah, blah, that don't actually tell me how.

Carb question... I took the bike out for a spin the other day. It won't really rev above 5k and it really doesn't generate power up hills. I noticed that at about 3/4 throttle, it is still burning fairly well, but when I go past that, it starts to bog down. Now, I am new to all this, so frankly, I am a bit intimidated to start getting into the carbs. No, I have not removed them, and no, I have not cleaned them. I am just trying to get my head around what these symptoms might be indicating. And then, when I get enough courage, I will pull them out and get on cleaning them. I am running the stock airbox and have made no mods or changes to the intake system. What is making the bike run like this?

Rear Sets.... I am not much of a metal fabber. I would like to put some rear sets on, but they all seem to require me to build some form of bracket to mount them to. What is a good set of rear sets for the 550F that don't cost a small fortune? I am willing to put some money into these parts, but considering I spent $550 for the bike to begin with, I don't really want to spend $300+ on Raask which seem to be the only ones that offer a mounting plate with the kit. Or, what kind of solution did you come up with that did not involve welding, forging, or machining brackets? Any modern bike ebay finds that worked out?

Clip-Ons.... Now that I have your attention, and you have read this far. What clip ons do you like? This may be like asking you who your favorite child is, but I am just curious. The guys at http://www.twinlinemotorcycles.com/ recommend Woodcraft. It seems like there are lots of them out there, but I didn't know if there was a brand that stood out above the rest. 

Seattle People... Know of a good shop in Seattle area to powdercoat the rims? I want to go with a nice black rim, chrome spokes and polished hubs. I like the look, but was wondering who had good luck with somebody in my neck of the woods.

Thanks for any and all answers. -R

[LesterPiglet]

Tongued Washers... How do I remove/ work around/ properly bend the tongued washers that hold the rear sprocket to the wheel? I don't really want to trash them in the removal process. I have looked, but have not come across a decent answer. Most references are "when I finally figured out how to undo them" blah, blah, blah, that don't actually tell me how.

Hammer and chisel/screwdriver.

Carb question... I took the bike out for a spin the other day. It won't really rev above 5k and it really doesn't generate power up hills. I noticed that at about 3/4 throttle, it is still burning fairly well, but when I go past that, it starts to bog down. Now, I am new to all this, so frankly, I am a bit intimidated to start getting into the carbs. No, I have not removed them, and no, I have not cleaned them. I am just trying to get my head around what these symptoms might be indicating. And then, when I get enough courage, I will pull them out and get on cleaning them. I am running the stock airbox and have made no mods or changes to the intake system. What is making the bike run like this?

Working at carbs is not difficult. It's only a matter of removing the bowls, removing jets and emulsion tubes and cleaning, then reassembly.

[RodPlunger]

Buchanan on mentions 750 spokes. I ran into this issue with cb750supply.com as well. The fronts match, but the backs don't...

Yeah, I know I got a SCREAMING deal on the bike. Unfortunately I tend to always have this vision of turning sow's ears into silk purses. So, I am trying to reign myself in with costs. That said, I am willing to spend money on the right product.

So, where do I buy the Raask rear sets. Most of the Loogle searches just show me what they are, but not a seller. Thanks....

[crazypj]

Buchanan's will be $2.50 a spoke for stainless, still too much for me.
Use an old knife to get the washers slightly open then use a chisel or screwdriver
How old is the air filter? could well be totally messed up, it isn't possible to clean them although many people still try
Low air flow could easily account for bogging around 5,000rpm (blocked pilot jets will be a problem starting and idling)
You are operating choke correctly? (it is all the way off?)

[crazypj]

Forgot to answer rear hub, I would look for a later one, the 77 was VERY prone to cracking the cast iron liner.
I ended up with a 500f rear hub and had a new brake lining fitted to the original (the spoke flanges are fine but  the liner was real thin)
Buchanan's spokes may be expensive but I won't mind paying for something that doesn't work harden and fail, they probably use 'proprietary' stainless 'mix'?
I don't remember seeing anything about 'design life' with the last set I used

[Bankerdanny]

I don't recall every reading that the '77 550F rear wheel is different from any other 550 rear wheel.

[LesterPiglet]

I don't recall every reading that the '77 550F rear wheel is different from any other 550 rear wheel.

Me either.

[strynboen]

f and k 550 modells have not same hub and breake plate..(.i got a vrong one from germen e bay.).my vas also cracked in the cast iron..think most 550 have this problem..in all years..mine bad  hub vas 1978 modell k3..

think the f hub are strongest...
one of the types are the old 500 type...but is it the F type??

[LesterPiglet]

A hundred years ago I heard of rear hubs cracking so I have a spare but I reckon it may have been early 500's they talked about... can't be sure.

[RodPlunger]

Hi All,
I will put a few questions in one spot, and see if you can help me.... And yes, I have used the "search" function.

I want to re-lace the wheels. The front I can find spokes for no problem, but the rear seems to be somewhat of a pickle. After finding this post
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=71439.140;wap2
I am under the impression that the 77's are a little unique. Has anyone found a set of SS or Cadmium spokes to fit a 1977 CB550F Rear Hub? Yes, I can buy OEM, but for $2+ a spoke, that is a little much. Plus, they are not SS or cadmium

I got the info about different hubs from the post listed above.

I don't recall every reading that the '77 550F rear wheel is different from any other 550 rear wheel.

Me either.

My bike is an F.

f and k 550 modells have not same hub and breake plate..(.i got a vrong one from germen e bay.).my vas also cracked in the cast iron..think most 550 have this problem..in all years..mine bad  hub vas 1978 modell k3..

think the f hub are strongest...
one of the types are the old 500 type...but is it the F type??

I guess I am still at a loss for finding a set of spokes that specifically say "1977 550F"... I will call Buchanan today and continue the search.

[LesterPiglet]

The rear wheels are same whether they are K or F. 

EDIT
I stand corrected.


http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k3-four-usa_model1015/partslist/F++11.html#results

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-usa_model468/partslist/F++11.html#results

[TwoTired]

What is making the bike run like this?

If the exhaust is not stock on the F model, almost certainly the carb jetting will now be too lean to achieve proper power above 2/3 throttle position.  (Your twist grip directly positions the carb slides.)  However, there would be clear indications in the spark plug deposits, which from reports, you haven't looked at yet.

Spark advancer could be stuck.   Point gap could be out of range.    Of course, carb condition(s) can be a factor as well.

In fact, you don't have any right to complain until AFTER the complete 3000 mile tune up check list has been addressed and completed.
I'd also add complete inspection and cleaning of the crankcase recirculation system.

[Duanob]

You can check out member BrandEn's build he is from Des Moines area and knows all the paint, powder coat, upholstery people in south King County.

here is one of his builds: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=103818.0

[bryanj]

As long as you use the hub and brake plate along with spacers from one bike you can interchange years. The difference appears to be the outer diameter of the brake plate and the recess it fits in