Author Topic: fmctm1sw '83 GL650 Interstate (Read 17568 times)

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #25 on:** July 16, 2014, 07:38:14 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 16, 2014, 07:01:26 PM

That's a Nice bike fmctm1sw, I had an 82' Silverwing but like Larry said I really wanted that extra 150cc's. Who put all that water into your motor ??

grc, That water was in there when I bought it. I had a CX500 for a while that I really liked so I bought this pretty much sight-unseen. I don't know if it was water or coolant or some of both. This was not taken care of very well obviously. I can't wait to start getting it back together.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 16, 2014, 07:44:50 PM »

You're doing nice work on it,I'm subscribed.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #27 on:** July 17, 2014, 03:43:08 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 16, 2014, 07:44:50 PM

You're doing nice work on it,I'm subscribed.

Thanks. It should be nice, it's been a real money pit. I finally got the swingarm races off by cutting slot in them with a dremel tool. I was certain on more than one occasion I got all the way through but they still wouldn't come out. As it turns out, I wasn't all the way through them, especially near the back. I got the new ones in no problem using a big socket I had around. I froze the races by turning a can of that keyboard spray upside down. I don't know if it helped or not. The monoshock cradle is back on too. I plan on doing the steering stem bearings next.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 17, 2014, 09:57:14 PM »

what's your first name? I know when you've got this nice Honda back together and fully broken in you'll be looking forward to riding it coast to coast

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #29 on:** July 18, 2014, 07:49:39 AM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 17, 2014, 09:57:14 PM

what's your first name? I know when you've got this nice Honda back together and fully broken in you'll be looking forward to riding it coast to coast

Matt's the name and riding coast to coast would be the game if I didn't have kids and work

grcamna2 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 18, 2014, 02:52:16 PM »

The 650 would be just the bike to do it with

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #31 on:** July 19, 2014, 08:46:18 PM »

Today I got them steering stem and fork seals together. These GLs have a bumpy surface under the steering head nut that, from research, is best shaved down flat when fitting an All Balls tapered bearing set. Also, the upper race pokes out of the top a little. My observations about the thick or thin washer was like everyone elses I've seen, the thin one. Before I took the stem apart, the steering was very notchy. It seemed like it had three steering positions, one at each stop and one in the middle. There is a washer that goes on top of the seal but I left it off to grab more threads on the stem. I got the fork seals done as well. Interestingly I have a Fork by Frank. Only one though. I've been avoiding the monoshock like the plague but I need to face it and see if it works.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #32 on:** July 19, 2014, 09:10:15 PM »

Now the forks. The technique I used on the springs was the use a big crescent wrench to push the fork cap onto the spring. Then I used my free hand to rotate the fork tube itself while holding the wrench still. Those glass pyrex things work great for measuring fork oil. I put 15 psi of air in them with a hand pump I bought today.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 19, 2014, 09:15:00 PM »

Matt,
how did the thin spacer/washer under the lower bearing on the stem work out for you?,did it allow your fork mounts to be tight up against your top triple w/o play ? and did removing that rough swaged stuff underneath the top stem nut mate up well with your All Balls top bearing? did you use the top seal provided in your kit ?

The Black finish/paint looks nice on your frame

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #34 on:** July 19, 2014, 09:24:56 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 19, 2014, 09:15:00 PM

Matt,
how did the thin spacer/washer under the lower bearing on the stem work out for you?,did it allow your fork mounts to be tight up against your top triple w/o play ? and did removing that rough swaged stuff underneath the top stem nut mate up well with your All Balls top bearing? did you use the top seal provided in your kit ?

The Black finish/paint looks nice on your frame

The thin washer was definitely the one to use. Everybody that I saw do it on the cx forum used the thin one. I measured my stack just to be sure though. There isn't any play in it that I can see and the steering stops line up great. The bike didn't have seals on the steering stem when I took it apart and yes, I used the one in the kit on the top too. I omitted the washer because I wanted to grab more threads, so the stem nut is sitting right on the seal now. Removing that swaged surface had the added benefit of helping me grab more threads on the stem.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 19, 2014, 09:29:38 PM »

Thanks for the confirmation on removing those swage marks underneath the top steering stem nut and using the top seal that way;I want to use my top seal on my CB350.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #36 on:** July 20, 2014, 09:36:54 AM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 19, 2014, 09:29:38 PM

Thanks for the confirmation on removing those swage marks underneath the top steering stem nut and using the top seal that way;I want to use my top seal on my CB350.

Do you mean the original top seal with the 350F or the one in the All Balls kit? According to what I read about the CX/GL bikes, those swage marks were to locate the (original) dust seal. If you want to use the original dust seal, your results may differ, I don't know. The dust seal in that All Balls kit hugged onto the bearing pretty good all by itself so I prioritized getting as many threads as I could for the stem nut and not as much worry about the dust seal. I got to thinking about last night and it looks like the seat for the top race is much higher in the frame than the CB bikes. That's why it covers more of the threads resulting in necessary creativity. The 750 I did didn't have this issue.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 20, 2014, 05:11:26 PM »

Quote from: fmctm1sw on July 20, 2014, 09:36:54 AM

Quote from: grcamna2 on July 19, 2014, 09:29:38 PM
Thanks for the confirmation on removing those swage marks underneath the top steering stem nut and using the top seal that way;I want to use my top seal on my CB350.

Do you mean the original top seal with the 350F or the one in the All Balls kit? According to what I read about the CX/GL bikes, those swage marks were to locate the (original) dust seal. If you want to use the original dust seal, your results may differ, I don't know. The dust seal in that All Balls kit hugged onto the bearing pretty good all by itself so I prioritized getting as many threads as I could for the stem nut and not as much worry about the dust seal. I got to thinking about last night and it looks like the seat for the top race is much higher in the frame than the CB bikes. That's why it covers more of the threads resulting in necessary creativity. The 750 I did didn't have this issue.

Matt, I meant the one in the All Balls kit;I'm going to remove the swage/serrations under the top nut anyway so it sits as flush as possible.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #38 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:06:54 PM »

Here's today's work. I fell short of my goal to have a roller. The rear tire bead refuses to pop onto the rim. I got the tip to use a ratchet strap around the tire so I'll try that tomorrow. I mounted both tires myself. The monoshock is a source of angst with these bikes. Hagon has an option (about $600) and folks have modified other shocks to work. The spring in this shock is 725 lbs if memory serves me. I had to put a 4x4 under the my receiver of my Suburban. Then I sat on the end of the 4x4 and saw some movement from it. For now, I'm going with it. I'll see how it works before I try those other options. When I took the bike apart, I left all the wiring connected and just pulled the harness out with the handlebars. Master cylinder, calipers, and both handlebar switches all still connected.

MoMo · « **Reply #39 on:** July 21, 2014, 03:01:11 AM »

did you try a bit of soapy water around the bead?

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #40 on:** July 21, 2014, 08:16:01 AM »

Quote from: MoMo on July 21, 2014, 03:01:11 AM

did you try a bit of soapy water around the bead?

Momo, I used hand soap to help mount it but I can't get it to inflate.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #41 on:** July 21, 2014, 09:32:06 AM »

Murphy's tire bead lube is Excellent

also Ru-Glyde

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #42 on:** July 21, 2014, 03:47:07 PM »

The strap thing worked! It inflated but the tire still still wouldn't pop onto the rim so I let all the air out and used hand soap on it. I got a pop shortly after I put air into it and another at pop about 36psi. Now it's a roller. The handlebars and calipers are on it and the wire harness is in. I still have to replace two connectors. The ignition timing is set now too. Tomorrow I'll get the airbox in it. One snag I hit was with the brake shaft. They powdercoated about an inch in on both side of the tube so now I have to resolve that. The brake shaft itself is exactly 20mm. I have to review a couple picture too to see exactly how the brake arm to the drum went.

The scary thing about this bike is that I never saw it run. I have no idea about the coils, voltage reg, etc.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 21, 2014, 05:01:47 PM »

You're putting good work into it Matt.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #44 on:** July 22, 2014, 04:00:38 PM »

I almost got the motor in today but got interrupted. I'm missing a few odds and ends (bolts) for the airbox and know I'm missing some bolts for the rear luggage hardware. I put a new connector on the wires from the alternator. I had to modify the electric plate a little to get it to go. I could have cut the locking mechanism off the connector but I decided to just cut the side out of the plate and let it lock. For the engine, I have two jacks that (hopefully) will raise it level and take enough weight off of it so I can wrestle with it in case it goes wrong.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #45 on:** July 22, 2014, 04:31:50 PM »

Fresh terminals

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #46 on:** July 23, 2014, 11:59:10 AM »

I knew I was moving along all too well. I got the motor in with a pair of hydraulic jacks. I was able to left it fairly equally and work it into place. The just one jack was needed to settle it in and line the bolts up real good. The bad news is the clutch. When I took it apart, I noticed it was short a friction disk and a steel (according to the fische). I bought all new friction disks from DSS and one new steel plate. When I assembled it and torqued down the lock nut, I wasn't able to get the four bolts into the clutch center. It seemed like it was so tight that it forced the bolt holes on the clutch center apart. So I loosened the lock nut up a little and got it together. Flash forward to today. I hooked up the cable and the clutch will not budge. I spent hours filing down the little grooves on the clutch outer too...

I'm not too excited about it though, I'm pretty sure I can get the clutch pack out of it by just removing the 5 bolts on the clutch cover itself instead of taking the whole front cover off. I think I'm going to get it started though first to see what happens. Another slight disappointment, the only life I saw was the speedo and tach illumination lights. Nothing else.... No starter, no neutral light, no oil light, no nothing. It did click nicely though through all the gears.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #47 on:** July 23, 2014, 08:18:51 PM »

I couldn't resist going back out there and looking at this. No chance ALL the bulbs would be burned out huh? Well, almost.... Some were missing and there was one good one in there. My oil and high beam are ok but nothing out of neutral yet.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #48 on:** July 26, 2014, 04:59:39 PM »

Luckily those Stanley158 bulbs are common. I picked up some from Autozone the other day. As for the neutral light, it was just a matter of me forgetting to connect the wire

I have an old 12VDC deep cycle battery that I hooked up to it. I got a click when I pressed the starter button and all the lights dimmed. I tried a few more times and got a real slow crankover, like probably about half a revolution. I don't think that battery is any good but now I have a much better feeling about the wiring. Still unsure of spark though. I got the luggage bars, fenders, and turn signals on it and hung some more of the body parts on just so they're off my garage floor. Now I'm remembering a lot of the body hardware was missing from this. Little collars for some of the plastic bits and the bolt that holds the tank down to name a few. I guess I'll work the carbs next until I figure out how to get paint for the silver and black bodywork.

I dug around and found a paint code: NH125MU and this guy http://www.decals4motorcycles.com.au/ has the full decal set. Leaving in here so I don't lose them...

hmm, it also lists NH124MU for the black (Achilles Black Metallic) part but I thought they were decals...

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #49 on:** July 27, 2014, 11:45:20 AM »

Here's some carb work. I didn't separate the rack but they cleaned up pretty good. Good thing I checked the air cut out valves. I even got the inner one apart between the two carbs without separating them. The bottom part of the accelerator pump was trashed too. I think it may leak a little around the accelerator pump but I had gas all over the place testing the nozzles so I'm not real sure. All passages are clear and the pump works great.

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Author Topic: fmctm1sw '83 GL650 Interstate (Read 17568 times)