Topic: oil filter bolt

[edcb550]

First bike, first oil change.

This bolt is so warn that i cant get it off.  I'm going to try again in a few min with a visegrip wrench.  Question:  is this bolt interchangable between years and can someaone sell me and send me one ASAP?

[Daves_76_SS]

If you PM me your address, I will send one to you ASAP.

[gratznic]

I just totally stripped mine trying to get it off. Last time I took it off was last February (so the thing shouldn't, one would think, be this impossible to take off -- but it looks like I tightened it too much that last time). I yanked with all my might, and all that happened was the metal stripped off.  So, I don't know what to do now, except maybe have my neighbor bring his super tools over. I really wish they'd give it a deeper head, like the oil plug bolt.

I'm hoping my local honda shop sells extras. That's probably not out of the question, right?

In the meantime, any advice on how to get it off? There could be some tool that I'm forgetting about. I did use a vice grip.

[Bodi]

Well. Another stuck oil filter bolt.
What's important to know is that the actual threads are way inside and soaked in oil, so they are not going to be seized, unless cross-threaded or overtorqued to failure (unlikely with that wimpy head). The oil is kept in at the outer end by an O-ring. All the seizing happens in the last 1/4 inch or so between the steel "bolt" and the aluminum houseeing, and at the head itself.
So if you drain the oil (probably already done) and heat the head with a propane torch (within reason) then apply some penetrating oil while still hot - DOT3 brake fluid works pretty well and there isn't anything painted below that it would damage - the oil tends to be drawn in during cooling. If there's any hex head left you can try an impact wrench. If that fails you can drill a hole into the flange and use a pin punch and hammer to try to turn the thing. If all else fails you can use a dremel to remove the head or if you have a really big drill bit - like 1" or so - and a drill motor that can get a straight shot at the filter (you may need to remove the front wheel and fender) you could centre punch the centre of the hex, drill a pilot hole right through, and then drill the head right off. I don't think any chips would get up the "bolt" and into the engine oil gallery. You can remove the gallery end plug and see right into it to make sure anyway. You don't need to be paranoid about damaging the face of the housing since the O-ring does the actual sealing against oil leaks.

[gratznic]

Yeah, according the archives I'm not alone.  (that's probably not the best facey thing to use...)

Anyway, I'm a bit worried about using an open flame in the area. But I'll take a look at it in the morning, with better light, to get a better assessment. I sprayed a bit of wd-40 in the region... but it'll probably be evaporated.

I was thinking of trying a hairdryer on it, just to heat it up a bit, then I'll give the bolt a few wacks from a hammer to see if that budges it a bit. Then vice grip.

If that doesn't cut it then I'll move into drills and stuff.

Thanks.

[scunny]

the reason why it has a small head is so you don't overtighten it. with a new stock bolt and 6 sided socket it should be easy to remove again.
this is what I tell myself everynight as I fall to sleep remembering the pain of removing mine

[SteveD CB500F]

You can buy the 17mm bolts from various places. Mine came from David Silver.  I don't go with the "its small so that you don't overtighten it" gang - give us some credit! 

I've put these on all my SOHCs since 1976 (6 so far) and never had any trouble with them.

[MikeDeB]

Believe it or not, I actually get the torque wrench out when I tighten mine down.  15 ftlbs if IRC.  Haven't had any problems removing them since (I had to get a new bolt for the K5 because some PO thought he had to crank that puppy right down to make sure it didn't leak).

[bryanj]

Steve, All of us on here are "reasonable" and "Intelligent" people but heres a story for you.

Back in 76 a "customer" decided we charged too much for a service so he would service his own 6 months old Goldwing.

Having drained the oil and removed the filter he refitted the filter but cross threaded the oil filter bolt to the extent that the filter housing had  a 1/8 inch gap at one side--this with the standard 12mm headed bolt

Not content with this he then fired it up and drove it 10 miles to the shop and expected warrantee on the repair!!

He then got upset when I refused to do the warantee and also refused to repair it without a NEW oil pump and a minimum of shells on mains and ends--which by the way showed NO excessive wear!

Bottom line was nearly a £1000 bill back in 76 Just for being a dumbass!!

[nickjtc]

You can buy the 17mm bolts from various places. Mine came from David Silver.  I don't go with the "its small so that you don't overtighten it" gang - give us some credit! 
I've put these on all my SOHCs since 1976 (6 so far) and never had any trouble with them.

Credit where it's due, to be sure!! However not everyone is as diligent as you and all it takes is for Mr.Muscle to heave-ho on the head of a 17mm bolt to potentially cause all kinds of problems.

[techy5025]

One of the worse results of overtightening is that you can pull the aluminum threads out of
the cases.  Woops! These things have such a fine thread, I can't imagine them backing off
with even minimum torque. Actually you could drill a hole in the head of the bolt and one
in the case nearby and safety wire it.  Then you would have a aircraftabike. 

One of the more dumb things I did was send the whole bolt to be replated...forgetting of
course the pressure relief valve built in.  Sure froze the whole thing together. 

Jim

[tramp]

just replaced mine with the new larger bolt, 17mm i think
good idea

[gratznic]

I'm still battling mine. The bolt doesn't at all resemble to kind hexagon it once was. In fact, I think its jagged, retarded form is going to haunt my nightmares tonight. I've been going at it with all I've got: a hairdryer. It warms up a bit, but it still won't budge. But I'm going to try again in a few minutes -- this time with a ipod and a beer on hand, and also with some dot3 juice, as recommended above (I forgot that I had some).

I'm thinking I might just have to not change my filter for this oil change. Booklet recommends changing the filter every other oil change, and I changed the filter last time. I live in a dusty, dirty place, though, so that's why I thought it would be a good idea to put a new one in there. This is my only means of transportation, so I have to do something like tomorrow. (And I suppose this is my only real option, given that I don't have a replacement on hand).

Also, I stopped by my local bloated honda shop to look into a replacement, and they sell them (or can order, I didn't get that far) for $50. They only sell it as a set, with the spring and seal and a few other dinky parts that somehow push the price to half a Franklin (or, for that matter, one full Ulysses S. Grant).

I'll check dave silver for the 17mm, order it if it's there, and then once it arrives take my chainsaw to my current one in order to get it off. That'll teach it who's boss.

[nickjtc]

I'll check dave silver for the 17mm, order it if it's there, and then once it arrives take my chainsaw to my current one in order to get it off. That'll teach it who's boss.

Use controlled aggression thereabouts...you wouldn't want to hurt anything else would you?

And do try and get it off. It's always best to change the filter with the oil.

[gratznic]

Yeah, I won't really use a chainsaw. I don't want to hurt a dang thing on this bike. It sucks enough having to battle it like this. I think the bike's pissed at me for living on a dirt road. But I'm really starting to get worried about this bolt. It's frustrating work.

I've ordered the 17mm. I think in the meantime I'm going to have to fill it up with new oil and ride it (only means of transportation; I really wasn't expecting this bolt problem when I started changing the oil, as I change it regularly and have never had such a problem). Then once the new bolt comes in I'll do everything I can to get the old one off, then I'll change the filter and put even newer oil in.

Tonight I'm thinking about rigging a little bowl to the bolt, filling the bowl with dot3, and then letting it soak over night (still working on the logistics here). I have no idea if any of it would worm its way where I want it to. Still, could be worth a try.

[nteek754]

ed  hey as soon as you get your new 17 mm bolt yeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaa take a grinder  trust me on this and grind the head of that fr#%$@$in bolt pull canister off then  I bet you will be able to turn that old bolt out with your fingers but if not at least you can put    visegrips or pipe wrench  on it and  get it off then in my case I would go out of my garage turn right and throw it on my  junk pile  good luck seven fifty four ever  Craig in Maine

[edcb550]

I have KlarkKent from Texas kindly mailing me a new one (well a new old one).  I am going to torche the bolt then use vice grips to take it off.  I am not going to try it untill I get the new one though.  But, I may consider getting that 17mm aftermarket.  What do tey run and where do i get it?

[spicy tuna]

i went on that trip too. ended up welding a nut over the stock bolt head. cheap, fast and effective. someone suggested the heat may have helped free up the bolt too. i dont know about that but with the new big bolt head, no slip no bad trip. i cant stress caution in over tightening enough though, the franken-bolt is as far as i want to go.