Topic: toggle switch for ignition switch

[547]

I plan to replace my 1977 CB750K stock 5 pin ignition switch with a 20A or 25A rated DPST toggle switch. I have searched the internet and this and other forums on how to do it and got a lot of good info. I would like to lay out my simple plan and was hoping someone could tell me plainly if it will work.
My stock switch has 5 connections,
Battery power red,
ignition black,
brown/white,
brown,
brown jumper from brown

My plan for the toggle switch (DPST) is to
connect red to the input
connect both brown wires and brown/white wire to one output
connect black to other output

I plan to keep the handlebar controls that have the headlight dimmer, push button start, run/kill, horn and all that.

My thinking is that the toggle switch will operate in the same way as the stock switch without acc. position while the handlebar switches will still operate the way they should. The fuse box will still be in place too.

My concerns are: does this set up work? is it ok for brown and brown/white to run together out of one connection? what is the 5th pin jumped from the brown wire for? am I missing anything?

thanks

I have attached the wire diagram I work with

[Powderman]

Are you deleting the stock ignition switch? It also incorporates the fork locks  and having a toggle switch for turning it on pretty much makes theft a piece of cake. I don't need a key to start any old CB750, the fork lock is the only thing that prevents me from riding off with your bike.

[547]

Are you deleting the stock ignition switch? It also incorporates the fork locks  and having a toggle switch for turning it on pretty much makes theft a piece of cake. I don't need a key to start any old CB750, the fork lock is the only thing that prevents me from riding off with your bike.

Remind me to lock up the silver when you're in town. Thanks for the input but I was hoping for answers to my questions.

[Medyo Bastos]

i use a wire nut, a toggle switch will work too!

[Powderman]

Are you deleting the stock ignition switch? It also incorporates the fork locks  and having a toggle switch for turning it on pretty much makes theft a piece of cake. I don't need a key to start any old CB750, the fork lock is the only thing that prevents me from riding off with your bike.

Remind me to lock up the silver when you're in town. Thanks for the input but I was hoping for answers to my questions.

So was I.

[Patrick]

I am not absolutely certain I am following your design  correctly, but flor everything to work everything has to be hot at the same time. With your description it sounds like the toggle will eb either or lighting up either the lights or the primary power, but not both. I hope I read that wrong. The br wire is your tail light. The br/wh are you signals. The brown has a connection all to itself because the second position on the ignition lights only the taillight. I never appreciated the utility of that, unless you are looking for something you can do that will drain your battery. The ignition is just a switch, so as long as your design powers the black, the brown and the br/wh all at the same time, it will work. So would a button, which I think would be way more cool.

Patrick

[bjbuchanan]

Stock honda switch routes 12v to the switch from main fuse, back out of switch to fuse box again for the other fuses. By ganging yours all together the fusebox is pointless, just run a single 15amp main inline off of your solenoid and be done with it.

Additionally, the brown/white is park/acc function. Useless on an MC in my opinion but if you just ganged them they would be hot. So taillight and I thinkkkk front blinkers lit ( I think rear actually.....) You would have your park lights on all the time unnecessarily.

I did the james bond toggle switch on my bike, in fact I have done most of those "cool" mods over the last 2 years. They all seemed cool but in the end they just kinda sucked. Including the car style keyed ignition, I will be getting rid of that soon too

Another thing I just remembered is how the DPST works. What ever you have always on will ALWAYS be on, no matter what (unless you run another toggle to turn that toggle off  ) and then when the other one is set the other side will always be off. You would have to gang everything together on one side to turn it off which defeats the purpose of a dpst anyway. You can relate how it would function to your starter button. The always on is the headlight. Then you momentarily press it and it sends juice to the start solenoid and no juice to headlight. It is a momentary example but the same thing really

[CB750F2]

You have a DPST switch which is a double pole single throw switch. I would connect the red and black wires across one pole and the brown and brown/white wires across the other pole. In other words connect it the same way as per the wiring diagram that you attached. The toggle switch will then work in the same manner as the current ignition switch. If you connect the wires in the manner that you were thinking of then it will still work but fuses will be bypassed. Pat

[547]

The only switch I am replacing is the ignition. I am keeping all of the momentary switches that control the brake lights, horn, and starter. I am also keeping the toggle switches that control the kill/run, the hi/low beams, the turn signals. All of those switches I believe are controlled by ground which means they are hot at all times. The only thing that I now am thinking of thanks to your responses is that the tail light, tach/speedo/indicator lights will always be on.  So what I think I need is a DPDT progressive switch which is a 3 position switch ( off, on 1, on 2) and I think that is as close to the ignition as i can get. With that switch I can control when I want those lights on.

[bjbuchanan]

The only switch I am replacing is the ignition. I am keeping all of the momentary switches that control the brake lights, horn, and starter. I am also keeping the toggle switches that control the kill/run, the hi/low beams, the turn signals. All of those switches I believe are controlled by ground which means they are hot at all times. The only thing that I now am thinking of thanks to your responses is that the tail light, tach/speedo/indicator lights will always be on.  So what I think I need is a DPDT progressive switch which is a 3 position switch ( off, on 1, on 2) and I think that is as close to the ignition as i can get. With that switch I can control when I want those lights on.

Yeah, DPDT will replicate the ignition switch the bike came with. You gotta have a totally off position, that is why the DPST won't work the way you originally set it up. I would still recommend you go with a stock-ish key setup, even if relocated. I've done the hidden this and that and besides the 2 second cool factor it is just a pain in the d!ck to have some special start sequence only you can perform

My recommendation is to run a fused hot wire that interrupts hot power to keyswitch and hide that somewhere trick (to your liking) and move the keyswitch a la hondaman back near the carbs so it is a little more hidden and you don't have to lengthen wires

[MJL]

DPDT switch.



Connect the two center poles together (battery)
Connect load one and load three together and hook your lights to that.
Connect your ignition to either 4 or 6. This will get you full lights when running, and also park/acc. Keep in mind that if you want the switch up with ignition on, you will want to use terminal 6. Or use 4, and maybe confuse thieves.

[547]

Hey thanks for the great responses bjb and MJL. I will definitely use that set up for the bike that I robbed the ignition switch for this project. I wasn't doing this for the cool factor, the stock switch got in the way of my new headlight and needed an alternative. My new switch is an under the tank mount. Thanks for the info