Topic: wiring Acewell 27xx/28xx dumb question

[zenocchio]

I have a dumb question about wiring the Acewell 2883 that i just got.
I have attached the wiring diagram for future reference.
the issue i am having is related to the Neutral and Oil lights, that are marked on the diagram as +. Is my understanding that the two dummy lights are wired in the Honda system coupled with a black wire, but isn't black power? +
before melting the whole thing down i just want to be sure that my assumptions are correct.

Wiring scheme: Acewell colour (descriptor) / Honda OEM Colour (Descriptor)

Orange (left signal +) / Orange (left signal)
Light Green (high beams +) / Blu (High Beam)
Light Blue (Hazard +) / Black and White (ignition switch on)
Purple (Neutral -) / Light Green and Red (Neutral)
Gray (Oil -) / Blue and Red (Oil pressure)
White (Right signal +) / Light Blue (right turn signal)

Black (Ground -) / Green (Ground)
Brown (Clock Power +) / Power (Black) {i don't care to have the clock always on, i better preserve the battery otherwise i would have used RED}
Red (Switch Key +) / Power (Black)
Blue (Fuel -) / N/A

[zenocchio]

So, are the wires coming from the neutral switch and the oil pressure one + or -?

[Don R]

I believe the switches make a circuit by going to ground. So 12V to the light then to the switch.

[evanphi]

I wired up my 2853 no problem... just follow the colours and you'll be fine. Look at the idiot lights in the Honda wiring diagram, no ground to them, just black ignition power and the lead to the switch. Oil pressure switch and neutral switch are both grounded at the switch. Bike key on, switches close-neutral/open-oil (if working correctly  ), lights come on/off as needed.

[lucky]

Acewell what? Light?

"Acewell 2883" what? 

[evanphi]

Acewell what? Light?

Speedo/Tach

[zenocchio]

I wired up my 2853 no problem... just follow the colours and you'll be fine. Look at the idiot lights in the Honda wiring diagram, no ground to them, just black ignition power and the lead to the switch. Oil pressure switch and neutral switch are both grounded at the switch. Bike key on, switches close-neutral/open-oil (if working correctly  ), lights come on/off as needed.

Thank you for confirming this.
How did you wired the hazard dummy light and clock?

[evanphi]

I wired up my 2853 no problem... just follow the colours and you'll be fine. Look at the idiot lights in the Honda wiring diagram, no ground to them, just black ignition power and the lead to the switch. Oil pressure switch and neutral switch are both grounded at the switch. Bike key on, switches close-neutral/open-oil (if working correctly  ), lights come on/off as needed.

Thank you for confirming this.
How did you wired the hazard dummy light and clock?

there is no hazard light on the honda. I *guess* you could wire it in to your parking lights if you really wanted to... but more hassle than worth! Just tape it off and leave it. I put the clock on main power so the clock is always on even with the bike off.

[Honda550k]

I bought an ace well got everything to work except the rpm so I sold it and went for some analogs.

The wires coming from the neutral and oil switch are -. The clock hooks straight into your positive terminal from your battery so that it is always on and never resets when you turn your bike on and off. Let me know how you wired the rpm. I may give it a try in the future.

[evanphi]

I bought an ace well got everything to work except the rpm so I sold it and went for some analogs.

The wires coming from the neutral and oil switch are -. The clock hooks straight into your positive terminal from your battery so that it is always on and never resets when you turn your bike on and off. Let me know how you wired the rpm. I may give it a try in the future.

RPM (looooooooong yellow off the gauge) can get tapped right into the same spot that the lead coming from the points goes to. Basically the "input" side of the coils. I stuck the resistor they included on the yellow line, too, because it was pretty jumpy without it at higher RPMs.

[kghost]

I bought an ace well got everything to work except the rpm so I sold it and went for some analogs.

The wires coming from the neutral and oil switch are -. The clock hooks straight into your positive terminal from your battery so that it is always on and never resets when you turn your bike on and off. Let me know how you wired the rpm. I may give it a try in the future.

RPM (looooooooong yellow off the gauge) can get tapped right into the same spot that the lead coming from the points goes to. Basically the "input" side of the coils. I stuck the resistor they included on the yellow line, too, because it was pretty jumpy without it at higher RPMs.

I fought the jump/dead spot for a week on my KR. Wound up putting a capacitor is parallel with the resistor to dampen out what I perceived to be AC interference.

Bit different to a points install as it uses a CDI and rev's to 12,000+ RPM

Works great now.......

[Djfob]

I bought an ace well got everything to work except the rpm so I sold it and went for some analogs.

The wires coming from the neutral and oil switch are -. The clock hooks straight into your positive terminal from your battery so that it is always on and never resets when you turn your bike on and off. Let me know how you wired the rpm. I may give it a try in the future.

RPM (looooooooong yellow off the gauge) can get tapped right into the same spot that the lead coming from the points goes to. Basically the "input" side of the coils. I stuck the resistor they included on the yellow line, too, because it was pretty jumpy without it at higher RPMs.

What size resistor was it? Mine did not come with one.

[evanphi]

1K

[kghost]

If I recall mine was 1 Mohm