Topic: "The Basement Build!" 1973 Cb350F

[Stev-o]

Honda points - TEC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NOS-350-360-Points-Pair-CB350-CB360-CJ360T-CB360G-CB360T-CL350-CL360-SL350-/320776777616

Replace the condensors too.

the gaskets may still be on your head, covered with dirt. Pry them out gently with a pick or small screwdriver. Buy new ones here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=310849276130

[2strokeTrush]

Honda points - TEC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NOS-350-360-Points-Pair-CB350-CB360-CJ360T-CB360G-CB360T-CL350-CL360-SL350-/320776777616

Replace the condensors too.

the gaskets may still be on your head, covered with dirt. Pry them out gently with a pick or small screwdriver. Buy new ones here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=310849276130

Thanks Stev-O !! Your a huge help around here

[flybox1]

Agreed, TEC points are the way to go, but those listed in that ebay link will not work. Wrong parts.
You'll need PN 30204-333-004 & 30203-333-004
I've had good luck in the past buying complete, used points plates from low mileage bikes off ebay(~$15), and reusing the TEC points.  You could get three of these for the price of one NEW TEC point. 
Combined with Hondamans ignition module,  you'll only need do do this once. 

[Stev-o]

Agreed, TEC points are the way to go, but those listed in that ebay link will not work. Wrong parts.

Thanks for catching that, Fly.  Like I stated earlier, I don't know the 350's...

[2strokeTrush]

Agreed, TEC points are the way to go, but those listed in that ebay link will not work. Wrong parts.
You'll need PN 30204-333-004 & 30203-333-004
I've had good luck in the past buying complete, used points plates from low mileage bikes off ebay(~$15), and reusing the TEC points.  You could get three of these for the price of one NEW TEC point. 
Combined with Hondamans ignition module,  you'll only need do do this once. 

Thanks for that as well!  On the topic of Hondamans Ignition module, what is that exactly, how hard is it to install, and do you thinks its worth it?? Geeze that was allot of questions! Anyone??

[silentsvn]

I run dyna-s with dyna 5ohm coils and 8mm wires. It's pretty solid I think.

[2strokeTrush]

I run dyna-s with dyna 5ohm coils and 8mm wires. It's pretty solid I think.

On that note, how hard is it to replace plug wires? i think some red ngk wires would look good, but i see it says "cut to desired length" and that confused me, and how do they attach to the coils?  Just something i have never done before....

[flybox1]

Do a search for those exact questions, and answers magically appear 
All of the info on what the HM module does, is in a long thread on the subject, and on hos website.
No, it's not hard to install, and yes, its worth it.

[2strokeTrush]

Do a search for those exact questions, and answers magically appear 
All of the info on what the HM module does, is in a long thread on the subject, and on hos website.
No, it's not hard to install, and yes, its worth it.

Alright Alright i will

[2strokeTrush]

Sorry i havnt been update as much last week, 15 degrees in Baltimore, 8 inches of snow, spring classes starting, and to top it all off i sprained my ankle!!  But i have been fiddling a little.

Moved the bike down to a lower better built table, with a stand underneath, in prep to take off the handlebars, anyone have any tips on that?  I hate running wires through stuff!!


Took to stator cover off.  I think I'm going to paint this and the clutch cover with high temp black paint.  But one bolt on my clutch cover is starting to strip so thats a problem!

Doesn't look to bad i guess??

[calj737]

Use a piece of medium gauge copper wire as a wire "snake" to fish the control wires through the bars. If you can, install shrink wrap on the control wires (leaving ample uncovered wire for connections) and lubricate the shrink wrap to aide in routing through the bars. Push then pull. Or, feed slack into the bars, then pull the slack from the other side. Pulling first tends to knick wires and get them caught up.

[2strokeTrush]

Use a piece of medium gauge copper wire as a wire "snake" to fish the control wires through the bars. If you can, install shrink wrap on the control wires (leaving ample uncovered wire for connections) and lubricate the shrink wrap to aide in routing through the bars. Push then pull. Or, feed slack into the bars, then pull the slack from the other side. Pulling first tends to knick wires and get them caught up.

Thanks ill give that a try!  Any type of lubricant will work??

[calj737]

Any. Spray lithium, Vaseline, oil, whatever you have.

[bjbuchanan]

Tape the ends of the wires in to a small tight bundle then ram her home

My last post about the carbs had a link at the bottom that had stock jet sizes, specs turns, float height for every SOHC carb on any bike from any year.

Hondaman is plug and play, literally. Your coil confusion is because stock coils have non-replaceable wires. You gotta use splicers. Most of this stuff has extensive posts/threads. Believe me you aren't the first to ask this stuff. I run the HM box on my warmed up 836 with regular cheap replacement coils.

The stock coils are plenty adequate for anything but really worked rides

[2strokeTrush]

Tape the ends of the wires in to a small tight bundle then ram her home

My last post about the carbs had a link at the bottom that had stock jet sizes, specs turns, float height for every SOHC carb on any bike from any year.

Hondaman is plug and play, literally. Your coil confusion is because stock coils have non-replaceable wires. You gotta use splicers. Most of this stuff has extensive posts/threads. Believe me you aren't the first to ask this stuff. I run the HM box on my warmed up 836 with regular cheap replacement coils.

The stock coils are plenty adequate for anything but really worked rides

thank you!!  What do you mean use splicers?? to cut the coil? how do you reattach??

[2strokeTrush]

Used my Dremel with a abrasive wire wheel on the rocker covers and pulled off the yellowed clear coat. It may not look perfect by any means, but it looks better then yellow peeling crap.  Here you can see the line of where i used the Dremel and where i did not.


Both sides seemed to come out great.


This looks like the flasher relay, and it appears that one of the connections has broke off, explaining my turn signal problem, you can see this green wire not connected to anything, and the place it should be connected but is not.


Also took off the tail light, I think with the lower 400f handlebars the bike will flow very well, but that huge tailight kinda throws that off.


Im ordering this one from Dime City Cycles....Thoughts??  Link to DCC:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-lighting-parts-hooded-gloss-black-lucas-taillight-light-20-1081-gbpc.html

Any reason this is the only bolt to be rusted?  I know these cause trouble getting off, but i want to and change the filter in there.  Just wondering if maybe it looks like someone tried to fool with it!


I don't have any tools for polishing, and i don't really know how to anyway.  So i used allot of never dull, it seemed to clean these forks up well, not perfect but well,  The marks on the bottom are whats left of old stickers the original owner had put on.

[wowbagger]

I love the look of the Lucas lights on these Hondas. This is my CB500:

[2strokeTrush]

I love the look of the Lucas lights on these Hondas. This is my CB500:

Thank you! i was wondering what it would look like on a bike!  How hard was the install?

[wowbagger]

It was fairly straight forward. I was able to use the old threaded bolt holes for the bottom two bolts but I did have to drill a new hole for the top bolt. I disassembled the old tail light and used the long wires from it to hook up the new one. The wires just unplug from the inside of the tail light housing. Here's another shot shortly after install:

[2strokeTrush]

It was fairly straight forward. I was able to use the old threaded bolt holes for the bottom two bolts but I did have to drill a new hole for the top bolt. I disassembled the old tail light and used the long wires from it to hook up the new one. The wires just unplug from the inside of the tail light housing. Here's another shot shortly after install:

Your awesome thanks for the info! Hope i can reuse the bolt holes the same way you did!

[2strokeTrush]

Well I ordered just about everything parts wise i will need, (still looking for a non torn air box boot ) from Dime City Cycles.  They are really nice guys as I'm sure you all know, some of this will be for my birthday to since my girlfriend didn't know what to get me!  But placing this order makes me want to get wrenching!!

[jpfrk2001]

When you did your polishing with your dremel, I hope your not using a METAL wire attachment? I would use non-metallic attachements when working with the aluminum parts. Unless you can find metal wire attachments that are aluminum as well.

Turned out great!

[2strokeTrush]

When you did your polishing with your dremel, I hope your not using a METAL wire attachment? I would use non-metallic attachements when working with the aluminum parts. Unless you can find metal wire attachments that are aluminum as well.

Turned out great!

Thanks!  Its a non metallic wire attachment, but this wasn't really polishing.  I was just getting what was left of the clear coat and some spots that has tarnished on the top.  I will polish over what i did tho.  I believe Dremel makes polishing attachments, and since its not a big area it should work well!

[jpfrk2001]

They do. I am working on my carb bowls and top caps. They are really better for the small parts. For a bigger area like what your doing, I would look at a larger tool. Maybe a 3" die grinder with polishing attachments.

If you try with a dremel, you may loose your mind. I know I would.

[calj737]

whether its a Dremel or Die Grinder, use ScotchBrite pads (start with Green, then progress up) to "sand" and polish. These won't hurt the aluminum, but will remove clear coat and lightly scour the surfaces.

For optimum results, follow-up with wet sanding regimens from 600, 1000, 2000 grits and then cotton wheels with rouges.