Author Topic: Honing  (Read 16228 times)

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Offline dave500

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Re: Honing
« Reply #75 on: December 31, 2013, 12:00:31 AM »
same #$%* with two less wheels man and no differential.

Offline thirsty 1

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Re: Honing
« Reply #76 on: December 31, 2013, 04:49:38 AM »
I used battery drill with cylinders just on the work table.

That's fine.I put them between my feet and use lots of oil and work slowly. Remember your not trying to remove material but just make some scratches for the oil to sit in. I generally use a 1/2" drill and try my best to keep the strokes uniform. Don't stop turning the hone inside the cylinder. Happy New Year from Busan S. Korea.!
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Offline 70CB750

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Re: Honing
« Reply #77 on: December 31, 2013, 04:52:21 AM »
Also you have to move quite fast to get 45 degrees hatch pattern.
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Offline dave500

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Re: Honing
« Reply #78 on: December 31, 2013, 05:27:17 AM »
ball hone is ok for a re ring old bore,a re bore should be precision machine honed only.

Offline crazypj

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Re: Honing
« Reply #79 on: January 10, 2014, 09:53:11 PM »
chrome ring on top,sounds like you wernt paying attention in class?

 No Dave, that's the correct way on a Honda, take a look in service manual

@ crazypj- "In theory the gas pressure should get behind rings and 'force' them into cylinder wall, however, experience suggests it only happens if pistons are 'gas ported' or modified for Dykes rings"
   Would you mind explaining further exactly what "experience"(s) led you to believe that explosion gas pressure does not get behind the piston rings and press them against the cylinder walls?
   I can't think how you would prove or disprove this, however I have proved to myself that another thing I was taught about piston rings at automotive mechanical engineering classes is true- which is that piston rings are slightly curved upwards and flatten out to dead square with the cylinder wall when the explosion gas pressure hits them. I know this is true as I have a 550 motor with new rings fitted that has been run a lot sitting in an engine stand but has never had any load what so ever put on it since the new rings were installed(very bad way to run in new rings I know!). Now with it apart looking at the pistons side on, the rings have only rubbed on the bottom 3/4 of the surface that slides up and down the bore with the wear not quite reaching the top corner of the compression rings on any of them. This is why it is important to put the rings in the right way up(marking at the top), but my question is do the chrome rings go at the top and the darker coloured rings beneath?(PO put the rings in, looks like barrels have been honed but he left out all the o rings!)

When you get oil burned onto ring surface it shows the gas pressure didn't force them into cylinder wall as expected. It isn't something I've seen very often but I have seen it on various engines.
glazed rings would wear surface off if the pressure was 'doing it's job'
Every bike motor I've stripped at low mileage has shown polishing on center of top ring (the chrome faced one) as it's barrel faced.
There is a small section towards top that doesn't bet in much below 5,000miles
 I know majority of automotive rings used to be 'dished' although I haven't been able to measure it on genuine Honda rings, the bottoms sit flat on a surface plate
« Last Edit: January 10, 2014, 10:04:51 PM by crazypj »
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Offline dave500

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Re: Honing
« Reply #80 on: January 10, 2014, 09:57:28 PM »
jonda asked if the chrome rings go on top and i replied.

chrome rings go on the top.