Topic: Sanding my tank / preparing for paint

[otmcdo]

I have a cb350f tank that I'd like to repaint. Can anyone give me a step by step process, or at least give me tips on sanding and priming the tank? Thanks so much.
-Owen

[frostypuck]

First off, there's some great stuff called Aircraft Finish Remover. Spray it on the old paint wait five minutes, and the paint will fall off. Do this outside and keep some water nearby. (It neutralizes with H20.) You will need a plastic scraper, gloves and goggles, but it is worth it.   As for the prep and painting, keep wiping down the tank between coats with a tack rag. I used some automotive paint that is a two part epoxy enamel that is supposed to be fairly resistant to gas, brake fluid, etc. Cost around $30/qt. Unless of course you are reproducing the original color scheme.
Also, I use a primer manufactured by the same company as the color paint, but that's probably not essential.
Look around on the net for write-ups on prep and paint, there's some excellent one's out there. And remember, the paint job will only be as good as the preparation.
Good luck,
Chris in Boston

[Salem350F]

I just got finished putting the side covers and tank, that I just painted, back on my CB-450 Twin (sorry it is my “other machine”).  When I got the bike out of storage this spring the paint had lifted of the tank. 

Here is what I did.

After removing the emblems and petcock etc. I masked the fuel cap carefully, along with the outlets and equalization tube ports.  I started in with some citrus-based paint stripper, didn’t overpower me with fumes.  I let it soak really well-overnight.  Then it was to work with the plastic scraper.  Many coats of goo came off and I would say it took me three or four coats of stripper.  I then got the covers and tank down to bare metal.  I washed it all of carefully with a hose and polished every thing down real shinny with a 3M foamy abrasive wheel, which I had gotten at the local hardware store mounted on an electric drill. 

Then I gentle sanded with 400 wet dry paper and looked for imperfections, I had 3 minor-very minor, dents that I filled with bondo, takes about upmpeteen thin coats sanding in between, until one  is happy. The bondo was wet sanded with 320-400-600 paper until it was slick.  I then applied three coats of grey filling primer –spray can and then dry sanded 400 then 600 very lightly. 

I was really worried about gasoline lifting the paint again.  I am and old time RC airplane model guy, the high nitro fuel lifts everything on model aircraft,  so I bought nitro fuel proof Top Flite polyurethane paint from Tower Hobbies- spray cans,  I figured it would be less expensive that getting out the spray gun.  I got the red metallic,  it is a great color.  I also got the special primer and clear coat @ $40 with shipping.

I then applied the special primer and let it dry 24 hours, and very lightly sanded 400-600 dry. I then applied the metallic, I had trouble with nozzles clogging but got about 3 nozzles going soaking them in lacquer thinner between changes.  I waited 5 minutes like the instructions said and applied the clear coat.

Every time before I painted I wiped everything down with a paint prep damp rag followed with a tack clloth, I also sprinked  my floor with water to keep the dust down when I moved around

Today I put the stripping on, the emblems and took it out for a spin.   


Hope this helps!  Check the pictures.

[Uncle Ernie]

That looks good! How did you do the srtipes- hand painted, taped off, decal?

[Salem350F]

Again another RC hobby thing- "Practa Trim Tape"  @ $5 come with about 6 different widths 72" long on one backing paper. Very thin and again Nitro proof.

[chippyfive50]

After messing with a spare tank, I took my good one  to the local metal cleaner and had it dipped for $50, needless to say, it was a SPOTLESS new tank inside and out......

[jtb]

I took the paint off of mine with a 60 grit wheel in my 1/2" drill.  I then started to sand the marks out with 100 grit paper, the 150 grit, then I started looking on the internet, and discovered that I didn't need to sand the metal smooth.  I shot two coats of epoxy primer, then I filled the minor dents (there were only 3) with bondo, sanded with 400 grit until it blended into the tank's contour.  After that, I applied a thin coat of filler glaze and sanded again with 400 grit.  After the 400 grit, I sanded it with 800 grit, then shot it with three coats of 2K filler primer, then sanded with 400 grit, then 800.  At this point, I ordered paint from Don Dirtbiker to match the original.  This came with another 2K primer, so I shot it again, then sanded with 400 grit, next 800 grit.  At this point, I knew for certain that I didn't want to shoot the metallic undercoat, candy coat and clear coat myself.  So,  I took it to a painter, and he shot my tank, side covers, an seat cowl.  He also applied the decals I got from afegraphics.com.  I really enjoyed the work leading to taking it to be painted, but I enjoy the finished product more.
John

[mrblasty]

the primer You  mentioned can really hide some stuff.
I spray that stuff at work.
I have only done one tank repair and it was for a late suzuki street bike with a big ole' dent in the side that on got welded and coated and about 5hrs labor. I like doing that sort of stuff.

[neckyzips]

take it to your local body shop slip em 50 bucks for a single color and let it go... with out air tools you will spend the rest of your life screwing with it, if you dont paint on a regular basis, mixing paints and products gets tricky... but if you want a step by step, look in a clymars manual or go to the book store and spend an hour reading about it. here is the jest of it:
1. get rid of the gas in the tank... all of it fumes too
2. get rid of any thing you dont want painted... ie cap pet, emblems, etc
3. sand, strip, or whatever, just get it consistant all over, but not so smooth that the paint wont stick, it needs some texture
4. prime, several times... light coats, high fill solids primer tends to come off motorcycle tanks... dry sand inbetween coats
5. wet sand with 400-600 grit paper be easy and consistant all over.
6. CLEAN THE TANK!!!!

[neckyzips]

OOPS! WRONG BUTTON...
where was i...
6. clean the tank with something like a thinner it just takes your finger oil and anything off of the tank (dont eat and prep tank the oil from your hands will make the paint bubble at a later date) after whiping off, let sit for 10 or so min.
7. tack with tack cloth... dont touch with bare hands
8. spray with whatever paint you choose, light coats several light coats are much better than a few heavy ones
9. spray the clear or whatever, leave it alone for a while, at least 24hrs, unless directed otherwise by paint mfg.
10. wet sand out to 2000 grit and buff, be very careful not to sand or buff through the clear coat or you will be doing this all over...
most important parts to this are prep and finish work, the paint and quality of the paint dont really matter, if you do a good prep and good finish, ie. wet sand block buff polish, you will have a nice looking long lasting paint job. now im not saying that rustolem and house of colors paints are going to give you the same finish, though if done right it would be close.
hope my ramblings helped not confused you.
joe