Author Topic: removing bearing races from steering neck (Read 16823 times)

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #25 on:** August 21, 2006, 11:49:20 PM »

i used a dremel to get the old one off....

was hoping i could get it off without destroying it

ieism · « **Reply #26 on:** August 22, 2006, 03:04:25 AM »

I've seen a lot off helpfull post about removing the races, but now i'm anxious to know how you put the new ones in. They seem fairly thin and fragile, and tapping them in with something metal will almost certainly damage them right?
I was thinking to turn a piece off hardwood on a lathe to exactly the right diameter, but since the upper and lower one are different this is a lot of work.
Any tips?

750goes · « **Reply #27 on:** August 22, 2006, 04:00:30 AM »

ieism

simply insert the new race, then use the old race on top of it to tap it back in - same diameter, plus if you damage the old one its already knackered. thats how I did it anyway...

dpen · « **Reply #28 on:** August 22, 2006, 05:35:48 AM »

Put the new race in the freezer for an hour or so. It then slips in fairly easily.

Use the old race to tap it in if needed. You may not get it seated completely using the old race so, get a fairly thin brass drift (brass won't damage the race) & tap the race in being careful to keep it even.

I normally give one decent hit on one side then diametrically opposite.

You'll know when it's seated because the drift will "bounce" when you tap it & will give a hollow sound.

cbjunkie · « **Reply #29 on:** August 22, 2006, 06:00:53 AM »

if it's the WRONG one then it's THE WRONG ONE...end of story -

where did you purchase these?

paulages · « **Reply #30 on:** August 22, 2006, 08:50:04 AM »

i made a press out of the old races, some washers, nuts , and some all thread. center it all up in the neck, tighen the nuts down, and it presses together quite easily. but i've always used the freezer trick for bearings anyway...

dusterdude · « **Reply #31 on:** August 22, 2006, 09:28:01 AM »

Quote from: 750goes on August 22, 2006, 04:00:30 AM

ieism

simply insert the new race, then use the old race on top of it to tap it back in - same diameter, plus if you damage the old one its already knackered. thats how I did it anyway...

knackered,i love that word.

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #32 on:** August 22, 2006, 10:35:35 AM »

didnt realize its the wrong one until last night. atempting to resolve it with the seller. I bought it from an ebay company that has a rather high score.

ieism · « **Reply #33 on:** August 22, 2006, 10:41:29 AM »

Ok good.... I've had the new bearings in my toolbox for months, but never got round to doing it. I'll try and get it done this weekend as winter seems to arrive early here this year

With those hints i'm pretty confident i won't break anything this time.

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #34 on:** August 22, 2006, 10:42:58 AM »

Ok cool the guy is going to send me the correct one this time and send me a shipping label to send the old one back.

He said he thinks the bearing section that I have installed already is the same in both kits but to double check just incase.

I'm hoping the bearings are the same and the race is the only part different. Knowing my luck it will be different tho. He said he had to get the new kit direct from allballs and shoul be able to ship it to me early next week.

I swear I'm having withdrawls from my bike its been probably over a month since I last rode because issues keep popping up to make me have to wait....

I figure I have another month to get it back together as I have a roadtrip planned and want to test it for bugs before then

cbjunkie · « **Reply #35 on:** August 22, 2006, 10:50:41 AM »

did you get a better deal than from Z-1? did you check with him (jeff)?

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #36 on:** August 22, 2006, 08:54:30 PM »

z who?

got the kit for under $40
not going to use this supplier ever again tho

cbjunkie · « **Reply #37 on:** August 23, 2006, 06:52:32 AM »

http://www.z1enterprises.com/

go to right hand side, second menu - "parts by model" and follow the tree down to your bike.
Jeff is a member here, very helpful over the phone

notice the Dyna prices - 120 - dare you to find them cheaper...

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #38 on:** August 23, 2006, 10:12:03 AM »

oh i am SO bookmarking that

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #39 on:** August 25, 2006, 10:56:40 AM »

had another quick question.

The kit has a metal disc with a rubber edge on the outside. according to the blow apart I found on the net it looks liks that goes under the top race? is that actually where its supposed to go? I think it would make more sense to have that be on top of the bearings to act as more of a seal...

anyone know if the pic im looking at is right?

puppytrax · « **Reply #40 on:** August 25, 2006, 02:21:02 PM »

Quote from: rab1dwolf on August 25, 2006, 10:56:40 AM

The kit has a metal disc with a rubber edge on the outside.

Did you ever say what kit it was?? Is it the All Balls kit, or another one??

The All Balls kit has two seals and two spacer washers...you only use one of the seals (the one that most closely fits over the stem) and it goes on the bottom; and the spacer used depends on the stacked height of the original bearings+spacer+seal...

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2006, 12:45:48 AM »

yeah its the all balls.

it had two seals and then the race/bearings for top and bottom.

I thought the smaller seal went to the top as it seems sized for it.

theres no spacer washers though...doesnt look like I'll need them anyways

puppytrax · « **Reply #42 on:** August 26, 2006, 04:41:57 PM »

Here's the email from Kevin at All Balls concerning my 22-1011 conversion kit -

This kit is supplied with (2) spacers that are used by various applications
to make up for thickness differences between the taper bearings and the ball
stacks.

We have put instructions for the use of these spacers in kits since last
year, but if you have an earlier kit there may not be any instructions.

To determine which, if any washer is required measure the stack height of
the ball bearing assemblies (place a few ball between the races of both the
top and bottom bearing sets) and compare this measurement to the stack
height of both taper bearings. Select a washer to put the difference in
stack height to 1 mm. If the stack height is already within 1 mm then do
not use any washer.

The washer will be placed onto the stem first (before the seal and taper
bearing)

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #43 on:** August 26, 2006, 07:14:55 PM »

ok cool ill make sure to look at the 22-1011 when i get it, still waiting shoulld hopefully be sometime this next week

mrbreeze · « **Reply #44 on:** September 01, 2006, 08:25:33 PM »

I'll be awaiting your post when you get this thing sorted out.I plan to go tapered bearings this winter when I tear the front end down for fork seals.I put ATF in my tubes and it leaks worse than the old oil did.Back to the stem bearings...are these Timkens? If you remember...list the #'s of the bearings & races you use...both upper & lower.This might keep someone else that is doing this swap alot of headaches!!! I'm glad you didn't go out and run with just the bearing and no race.I think you learned a good lesson here.

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #45 on:** September 01, 2006, 11:54:27 PM »

thats why i ask here instead of assuming what i do is correct.

I'm using the all balls kits. stil havent gotten my new kit but i hope itll be here tomorrow so i can use this long weekend to get it road worthy

rab1dwolf · « **Reply #46 on:** September 06, 2006, 09:42:50 PM »

well I got the new kit yesterday. Races look like they will fit snug into the neck. I actually dont need the spacers as bearings at already in the +-1mm range of the originals. so thats good I geuss

I tried whacking the incorrect bearing off the steering neck but it appears I put it on a little to well. That sucker aint coming off with me beating on it.

The last one I dremeled off and am contemplating doing the same here yet the guy wants me to ship it back to him....but the time I'm done the whole lower bearing will be destroyed....

Does using a torch on it still damage it beyond use? I don't own one but can try and find someone that does

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Author Topic: removing bearing races from steering neck (Read 16823 times)