Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[slikwilli420]

Still plugging along getting more of the front end wrapped up. I'll mount brakes next then I can get a measurement fir new brake lines from the splitter in the lower tree. You can see the line coming from the brake master but I'm really close to talking myself into black lines instead of the silver ones I had before. Thoughts?

[knottedknickers]

Black would provide some contrast on a fairly chrome-heavy front end... From the 'head' back, it's all pretty black, so anything to tone down the front a bit so there's not so much contrast might help? My thoughts.

Still plugging along getting more of the front end wrapped up. I'll mount brakes next then I can get a measurement fir new brake lines from the splitter in the lower tree. You can see the line coming from the brake master but I'm really close to talking myself into black lines instead of the silver ones I had before. Thoughts?

Close up of the front


Full body shot

[slikwilli420]

I should mention that the plan is to have some body color on the fender as well as have the headlight bucket body color too. I am really leaning toward the black lines.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I personally like black braided steel lines.

[754]

Contrast is nice to a point, but consider the flow of the bike.
 Painted headlight color of bike works because the color does not get sliced of at the steering neck, so that works. Your lines however are not the focal point of the polished front end, so stainless or silver will  blend in and not detract from the forks. But black sticks out and pulls the eye away from the stronger feature.

 Its a problem when judging bikes at shows.. Do the parts bend in and fit and go with the flow..or doesvit look like a wheelbarrow. Of parts was added to the bike , which then looks like stuff piled on top of stuff, piled on top of more stuff..
 Its all about the flow.. Look at each part and think, does it compliment everything around it, or is it clashing.
I vote silver lines..

[slikwilli420]

I personally like black braided steel lines.

Contrast is nice to a point, but consider the flow of the bike.
 Painted headlight color of bike works because the color does not get sliced of at the steering neck, so that works. Your lines however are not the focal point of the polished front end, so stainless or silver will  blend in and not detract from the forks. But black sticks out and pulls the eye away from the stronger feature.

 Its a problem when judging bikes at shows.. Do the parts bend in and fit and go with the flow..or doesvit look like a wheelbarrow. Of parts was added to the bike , which then looks like stuff piled on top of stuff, piled on top of more stuff..
 Its all about the flow.. Look at each part and think, does it compliment everything around it, or is it clashing.
I vote silver lines..

You guys are killing me. I can see the merits of both points of view. There is a lot of silver tone going on up front and I thought black would curb that a bit. On the other hand, to 754's point, it may be distracting. This part is tough since I really only have a vision for the color and graphics, which right now is a deep blue with silver tank graphics. That blue will carry to the headlight and part of the fender, but that will be it for color up front. I have debated back and forth between black or silver wheels and black or silver rotor carriers as well.

[754]

Wheels same color as tank always looks good, will frame be same as tank , i agree carry it through to headlite and front fender. Gold can look good for rotor carriers, but its so common these days. Tank color might work for carriers.
Also brake lines, if routed right should not need plastic covers, a -3 line looks the business..naked..imo.

[slikwilli420]

I thought about wheel color matching the body color and also thought about having one spoke body color and the other ones silver or black, but am leaning away from that now, although I might try it just to see if I can live with it everyday.

I really want to do the frame silver since that will be the body accent color and you dont see nearly as many silver frames as you do black, but then I go back to having too much silver. Still no clue what color the engine will be.

[seanbarney41]

lines.....colors......ohhh.....oops just puked in my mouth a bit.  Thank goodness I am pretty sure there is more vintage speed part awsomeness still to come.

[slikwilli420]

lines.....colors......ohhh.....oops just puked in my mouth a bit.  Thank goodness I am pretty sure there is more vintage speed part awsomeness still to come.

Don't worry Sean, I'm not planning to disappoint in the vintage parts department but the devil is in the details. I would like to show this bike as well as ride it. Fortunately paint is easy to change but can make all the difference.

[slikwilli420]

Still alive and kicking on this one! Thanks to some time off I can tackle a bunch of things I have been eyeing for a long time. The Marzocchi Strada shocks had been powdered over a year ago but I just got around to getting everything assembled. One down and one to go. These were top quality in the day so should work just fine with all fresh seals and oil.



I've also been sitting on the rough water jet cut version 2.0 of the rear engine mount. Finally just started making chips and got it done. Seems like I make everything twice but in this case it was well worth it. All of the engine hanger bolts are being converted too ARP 12 point as well.



Up next is the other shock, paint on the tank and final mounting of tank, oil tank and seat. Electrical, hydraulic clutch and battery mount are about the last big items but it seems like the detail list is getting longer by the second.

[754]

 That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

[slikwilli420]

That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

That's for sure. I'm not real fast on the mill but I think I have about 3 hours into it. Turned out great but not real wild about making more.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Frank makes some bad-ass engine mounts.  Ask me how I know . . . 

[seanbarney41]

That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

That's for sure. I'm not real fast on the mill but I think I have about 3 hours into it. Turned out great but not real wild about making more.

,,,sucks,,,,I want some

[slikwilli420]

 I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

[754]

I would not worry about that.
 I did make a few motor mount long bolts, turned them out of 1/2 bar to a tighter size than stock.
 I dont know what the ARP Cost for say a 3/8... I was using up my stock of Chrome Gardner Wescott 3/8 Allen nuts.... No idea what they cost now... But the look pretty good.
 When you buy chrome fasteners from GW , the threads always fit.

[Godffery]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

[slikwilli420]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

I used 1/4-28 ARP bolts with a nut. They fit really nicely in the hole and I was able to find a perfect length vs an M6 bolt.

[calj737]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

I used 1/4-28 ARP bolts with a nut. They fit really nicely in the hole and I was able to find a perfect length vs an M6 bolt.

You won't warp the cases by swapping 1 at a time. There's not nearly enough torque on them to do so. Why are you using SAE thread on a metric machine? Blasphemer!

Try www.allensfasteners.com for the ARPs. The website is a bit wonky, but all the stainless 12 and hex points are there. You can oder raw 303/304 stock in metric rod from McMaster if you need to make longer bolt not available from ARP. Turn threads onto the rod, spin on an ARP nut, weld it, face it in the lathe.

[slikwilli420]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

I used 1/4-28 ARP bolts with a nut. They fit really nicely in the hole and I was able to find a perfect length vs an M6 bolt.

You won't warp the cases by swapping 1 at a time. There's not nearly enough torque on them to do so. Why are you using SAE thread on a metric machine? Blasphemer!

Try www.allensfasteners.com for the ARPs. The website is a bit wonky, but all the stainless 12 and hex points are there. You can oder raw 303/304 stock in metric rod from McMaster if you need to make longer bolt not available from ARP. Turn threads onto the rod, spin on an ARP nut, weld it, face it in the lathe.

Already well ahead of you Cal. I came across Allens a few years ago. It's still the only place I have found single ARP fasteners.

Regarding standard vs metric thread. I used the one that was best for the job and the 1/4c fasteners fit more snugly than an m6 and the length was perfect so no trimming. I also used 5/16 for the bolts to attach the rotors to the front hub since m8 wasn't available that long.

[calj737]

Well, I guess it is a mashup bike so why shouldn't there be some SAE threads 

[754]

Oh yeah, Gardener wescott has lotsof 12 point bolts as well.... Chromed.
You may want to consider red loctited the one nut on...
 We were tig welding nuts on axles, and at least one time we had micro cracksm

[slikwilli420]

Nuts for all the hanger bolts are already welded and finished. 

[Godffery]

 Ha, My OCD will not allow me to mix SAE and metric !