Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[540nova]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

This is why we use ratcheting crimps in aviation.


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[slikwilli420]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

Will the Vintage Connections crimp tool and the die it comes with work for crimping wire ferrules? Wiring is one of those things I need to study up on so there may be a lot of questions regarding this topic coming soon.

[540nova]

Yes, I've used this tool for my complete rewire, including M-unit.


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[540nova]

Actually, I just remembered I used a different tool for the ferrules that go into the M unit. I will take a picture of it later on tonight and post up.


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[madmtnmotors]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

Will the Vintage Connections crimp tool and the die it comes with work for crimping wire ferrules? Wiring is one of those things I need to study up on so there may be a lot of questions regarding this topic coming soon.

I highly recommend the proper crimp tool. I am not familiar with the "M" unit and do not know if Vintage Connections provides connectors suitable for the "M" unit. Here is a copy of my post from another thread, ironically titled "Electrical Connectors":



Strip it. I usually strip about a 1/4" to 5/16". Three-eights is a bit much and not necessary:






Don't forget the insulator! (ask me how I know):




I finally figured out (after about three tries) that it's easier to load the connector in the crimp tool first. Note the stepped jaw. The trailing end has a higher relief so as not to over crimp the insulation:




Ratchet down on it just enough to hold it:






You only need about a 1/4" of insulation extended into the connector. Too much and you get into the part of the crimp that should be catching wire only. The jaws are pretty wide and hard to see inside, so I use my thumbnail as a guide when inserting the wire:






Crimp it!:




Voila':




And finally, the insulator:




Procedure is the same for other types of connectors, just be sure to use the right insulator. Here we have the insulator for the female bullet:




Load the tool:




Crimp it... crimp it real good... and voila'!:




Slide the insulator into place:




Dang! This is how they must of looked when the bike was new!:






Give the wire a tug when you're done. Occasionally I will get a loose crimp, but most of the time it is a result of smaller gauge wire. In those cases I will strip 1/2" of insulation and double the wire back on itself to mimic a heavier gauge wire. These are my go-to connectors for all things automotive. 

[540nova]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.


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[540nova]

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[540nova]

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[madmtnmotors]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.

I'll put my double crimps up against any of the "dime store" single crimp connectors any day...

Nudging the connector back ever so slightly within the jaw of the tool should provide the "bellmouth" you speak of.

[540nova]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.

I'll put my double crimps up against any of the "dime store" single crimp connectors any day...

Nudging the connector back ever so slightly within the jaw of the tool should provide the "bellmouth" you speak of.

Correct on the tool position, to achieve bellmouth.

I cringe every time I see those plastic automotive parts store connectors


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[madmtnmotors]

I cringe every time I see those plastic automotive parts store connectors

As do I. They do well in a pinch, but I view them as a temporary repair, which they are since they don't last very long! Good info on the bellmouth, the devil is in the details. 

[slikwilli420]

Cal, the links take me to the main page of each item, not to the specific one. For the tool, your link shows like 20 different types. Do you have specific links or item numbers to share? I want to get this right the first time.

Guessing its these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-tools/=15rl9cj

And these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire-terminals/=15rl9v2

Unless you use the insulated type.

[540nova]

Drats:
Crimper - https://www.mcmaster.com/#5722K12
Ferrules - https://www.mcmaster.com/#9681K15

Those are what I use, too.


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[slikwilli420]

How about this bad boy?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aven-Crimping-Tool-for-Wire-Ferrules-12-22-AWG-10178/206740289

Looks identical to the one Cal posted, but less expensive.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

These are the ferrules I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire-terminals/=15rkzh0

And the tool I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-tools/=15rkzxv

Okay 540Nova, go easy. I'm not an aircraft Pro  But I do cover the ferrule end to wire junction with shrink wrap:

So you use the non-insulated ferule?

And which gauge wire are you using, Cal?

[strynboen]

i use to give them some heat schrink..to isolate..it is smaller then the plastic isolated types...and use klear sc. Flex it looks almost stock

[slikwilli420]

Ok, going to order the 20-24awg and the 18awg, both 0.31" long from McMaster, and the crimper from Home Depot. Any special wire or as long as its the right size, its good?

[RAFster122s]

Have you used a tinned copper stranded wire?  I like it better but it is more expensive and less common as well as harder to find in a lot of colors for the insulation.  It is not good for digital or high frequency use because of the skin effect where the current/voltage/signal is only transmitted on the outer skin of the wire.  Tin being not an ideal conductor makes it unsuitable for anything 1 MHz or higher.  It has an advantage that it will not allow the wire to oxidize like a bare copper wire will.  The copper oxide, green, is actually a semiconductor which is not good.  But with good wire you don't have to worry about the wire oxidizing very quickly.

Another for of copper wire rot is a black oxidation.  Volvos made the mistake of using a biodegradable insulation on their engine wiring harnesses in the early through mid-late 80s. The insulation would become water permeable and start to crumble off the wire.  Often deep in the middle of a harness run and near exposed ends near connector blocks.  Sometimes it would fail in spectacular fashion with small fire and smoke but usually lots of electrical gremlins prior to the smoke events if it got that far.
I have seen both failures and have rewired by hand a few sections.  Factory harness was $1000-1200 at one point before the class action suit lowered it to $4-500.  It is no fun rewiring the engine bay in your driveway during a snowstorm in 20-35F weather.  Got that badge.

So, using good wire is a good idea...less trouble in the long run.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

If you use the insulated ferules, will they fit and eliminate the need for shrink wrap over the joint?

[slikwilli420]

Ordered ferrules, crimp pliers and stripping pliers from Amazon last night. I was lucky enough to purchase a horde of wiring stuff from a recently closed chopper shop near my house for pennies so I have more 18AWG wire than I may ever need.

All told, I ended up with 25-50' of at least 4 different sizes of nylon wire loom, a load of connectors, and at least 9 colors of 18AWG wire in spools of 50-250', some use and some new. Also got at least 50' of shrink tubing as well as a roll of larger gauge to make battery cables. Everything including the two sided rolling stand for $80.

Im ready to wire!!!

[slikwilli420]

So the m unit is all set up and ready to start making connections to switches/ power/ etc but that won't happen until I get the unit location finalized.



Also working on a unique way to mount the motogadget push buttons and came up with this



They still need lots of shaping and finishing but it gives you an idea. I had to go this route since there isn't enough clearance to use the clamp on styles that Motone and Motogadget have.

As for running the wires I can either make a small relief in the bar for the terminals on the back of each switch and run them external to the bar or I can drill the bars and run them out the ends in the middle. Thoughts?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Oh man.  I like that clamp with the Motogadget buttons.  Great idea!

[palepainter]

Yes.  Slick work on that button mod.

[slikwilli420]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

They are really coming along nicely and now I have both fitted to the bars the way they will sit once finished. All that is left on the parts themselves is hand work to soften some edges.  I will probably get them hard anodized to match the finish of the masters themselves.

Based on Cal's drill baby drill comment  (thanks Cal!) I will drill from the fork clamp to the housing, slot the bar for the back of the switch and run the wires that way for a cleaner look.



I also have another piece I am currently working on. I was going to wait until it was done but I'm just too excited with the way it looks to wait. I wanted to get rid of the tach drive since I won't be needing it. I had a cover with a gouged gasket surface that I cut the piece from to mate to a good cover. Once fitted it went to Jim French for some welding magic. There are some air pockets that will either need to be rewelded or filled with epoxy before finishing.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Those bar controls are amazing. I forgot you running a hydronic clutch too.