Author Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F (Read 66739 times)

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 01, 2014, 06:43:47 PM »

you got it

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #26 on:** May 12, 2014, 02:06:56 PM »

Hi Matt,

I got the caliper mounts in today's mail. THANK YOU! Now I'll just need to figure out the second mount piece to the fork!

Are you running the AP Master Cylinder, too. I'm going to try to make due with my Braking 16mm radial MC.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 12, 2014, 05:12:20 PM »

Don

I'll send the drawing out tonight with some specs. I'm using a CBR600 master cylinder which seems to work nicely with the old brakes and should be just right for the four pistons I have to push now.

Weber carb update coming soon.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #28 on:** May 12, 2014, 05:51:48 PM »

Quote from: slikwilli420 on May 12, 2014, 05:12:20 PM

Don

I'll send the drawing out tonight with some specs. I'm using a CBR600 master cylinder which seems to work nicely with the old brakes and should be just right for the four pistons I have to push now.

Weber carb update coming soon.

Thanks, Matt.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 14, 2014, 06:33:26 PM »

Mega update!
The Weber DCOE carbs have finally been mated to the engine! Its been a long road of designing, machining, welding, and fitting to get them to work. I still need to rig up a plate to support them from the top so the boots don’t need to do any work. I picked up Venhill clutch and throttle cable kits so I could build cables to the length I need for my bars. I also need to get some additional hardware for the throttle linkage as well as some nicer stainless clamps for the boots.

Swingarm pivot and lower engine bolts have been made from 1045 TGP shaft, threaded on each end for SS nuts. One end has the nut threaded on then pinned with a roll pin to create a bolt. The additional length will allow me to have plenty of space to mount the rearset brackets correctly and solidly, finished off with Tarrozzi pegs/levers.

Instead of the RC header, Im going to run the Kerker for the time being. I picked up a 2” comp baffle for it off Amazon for $112 shipped which should sound great.

Im going with a 7-row Earl’s cooler. I know there have been complaints but it seems well made to me and Im going to give it a shot. The cooler will be routed through the relocated oil tank that is under the gas tank cover.

I finally have a design for my triple trees that I love, after designing about 15 different iterations. I will have a 1.25” top and 1.5” bottom, tapered bearings and an NOS Ceriani stem, with dampening knob. The only thing that might change is the pinch for the stem, since the Ceriani is notched on the bottom to take a bolt that captures it instead of pinching it. The top will also end up without a pinch and simply be a close fit to the stem.

Tintop · « **Reply #30 on:** May 15, 2014, 07:25:55 PM »

I'm using an older version of MasterCam (mill & lathe), and convert my files to AutoCad for my water-jet guy.

Re your cooler mount - keep in mind that a short SS braided hose from the oil tank to the cooler will be very stiff, and will transmit vibration. Have you thought about using Aeroquip 'Startlite' hose? 1/2 the weight, and more flexible. I'd probably remove the lower mounting flange(s) on the cooler, and just use the upper ones to hang it from. Couple of 'L' brackets welded to the frame and some rubber bungs with threaded studs.

afkrejci90 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 15, 2014, 07:57:59 PM »

Any chance of selling a kit like this? I want to run Webers but I don't think I could make it as nice as this.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 15, 2014, 08:36:56 PM »

Tintop, I did some master cam in high school so I used to know it very well. For the cooler I already have Russell -10AN line ready to go so I'm going to try that out first and monitor the condition of the cooler closely. I like the mount idea so if mine doesn't pan out I'll look into that.

As far as selling a kit ready to go the big issue would be the carb spigots. Each took quite a bit of work to make so that is a factor. The linkage kit was like $100, the manifold plate was $25, $60 for the welding, and however much a machine shop would charge for a run of enough spigots to get the cost down. The addition of boots would put my cost around at least $300 and for a bit more you can get one from Australia for about $350. This project was to see if I could do it and be the only guy with one like it, just like so many other elements of this build.

754 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 15, 2014, 10:10:04 PM »

I don't think the spigots would be costly to make.
Be nice to shorten them to get better jet access, but on the RC manifold, it's not a straight hole, sort of tapered and offset.
Don't do you cut off the throttle shafts, where the carbs meet in the middle?

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 16, 2014, 03:55:58 AM »

Yes the shafts were cut down to the point where the carb bodies are about 5-6mm away from each other now. I could have squeezed a couple more mm but that wouldn't have really helped. I can probably shorten the boots a bit so it's easier to get jet access before mounting is finalized.

Tintop · « **Reply #35 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:26:49 AM »

The cooler mount idea comes from the Phase One 1978 P & M Kawasaki that endurance races in Europe. Figure if their cooler can survive a 24 hour race should work well on the street.

Re kits - don't forget the amount of time you invested in finishing / sourcing / shipping $$'s.....

Your probably light @ $300. If someone wants one, I'd just sell them a CD with the CAD, spigot dimensions, and source list for all the other parts required.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 16, 2014, 09:21:14 PM »

Front wheel bearings are changed out to accommodate the Ceriani style axle so I decided to mock up the front brake system. The calipers fit perfectly with my 3/16” spacers between the top and bottom brackets. The ARP bolts really make the whole thing pop and are as strong as anything available.

I also finished the rear wheel spacers, all aluminum, and got that fitted up using a VFR axle. The only thing left for the rear is getting the Marzocchi Strata shocks powder coated and reassembled. I also need a new chain and sprocket set. Sprocket Specialists seems to be a good outfit to get a set from unless someone says otherwise?

The rearset brackets are also nearing completion. I need to adjust the spacers top and bottom so the brackets sit nice and square to the frame. I sat on the bit tonight and the position of the pegs feels really nice but only time will tell if it works with my 6’1” body.

Major items left:

1.   Triple tree set – top/bottom cut, drilled/tapped, stem fitted, smoothed/polished/anodized
2.   Plumb oil cooler lines and mount cooler
3.   Design/waterjet cut gauge mount for SpeedHut gauges, tach/speedo combo and oil pressure with oil line run from galley plug to sending unit and wire all gauges
4.   Mount seat – still totally in the dark on how I want to do this
5.   Battery mount, probably waterjetted somehow and mounted under seat
6.   Tons of details that add up to lot of extra stuff

I also picked up a new toy today from my dad. It’s a CB500 (not sure of year) with bags and fairing, German spec that was brought home by a guy stationed there in the 70’s. He brought it home and has since passed away. His wife sold it to my dad a few years ago, and I bought it from him for what he paid, $50! This one will get its own thread but I thought I would share my excitement.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #37 on:** May 16, 2014, 10:53:52 PM »

Wow, Matt. Those AP Racing brakes look awesome.

I tried to make them work with my 550 front end, but the width of the calipers wasn't compatible with the spoked wheels. I think I would have better luck with mag wheels. I'll save them for another project or different wheels down the road.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 27, 2014, 05:04:40 PM »

Small update on some parts for the front end and other mini-projects. Its so true when guys say the list gets longer as you get closer to being done. I try to take really small bites and do one thing but I still have a tendency to bounce around based on what I feel like doing that day.

First is the oil pressure line. I have taken a line from the oil galley plug and will run it behind the headlight were it will hook to the sending unit for the Speedhut oil pressure gauge. I think it will look cooler than the low mounted gauges and will be just as functional, but with less likelihood of damage from a carelessly placed boot or accidental tip over.

I also got the raw triple trees back from the waterjet shop. They still need to have sharp edges rounded, as well as drilled for the pinch bolts and final bored for the stem and forks. I have also been doing some polishing work on the fork lowers to get them looking decent. Im trying to be sympathetic with them so every ding and dent will not be removed but they will definitely be better than before. If aluminum wheels on a Ferrari grade a 10 on the polish scale, I would call these 5-6 which is good enough for now.

Tintop · « **Reply #39 on:** May 27, 2014, 05:32:46 PM »

Those triples look good.

Won't have thought water-jet would have cut stock that beefy. How thick are they?

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 27, 2014, 05:50:57 PM »

Thanks! The top is 1.25 and the bottom is 1.5 thick. They can water jet up to 6 inches thick of any material. Considering the cost compared to CNC mill it was a no brainer to use water jet.

sazaver · « **Reply #41 on:** July 09, 2014, 09:42:51 PM »

I salut your courage for the manifold work. Always loved those webers and I am sure it will run so smooth.

The gas/oil tank looks lovely, is that a Rickmann piece?

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #42 on:** July 13, 2014, 07:27:55 AM »

Thanks for the supportive words on the carbs. It should be a great focal point for the whole bike. The tank is Rickman that was adapted to be the oil tank as well. It was part of the original kits they sold in the '70s.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 27, 2014, 05:24:53 PM »

I have made some good progress on the front end. As it sits now, the bottom triple clamp is smoothed/polished, the stem pressed in and the forks fitted. I still need spacers for the wheel but wanted to see how it all looked together. The only thing left to buy for the front is brake lines/fittings. Here is what I have on the front end so far:

Betor forks - rebuilt with seals/dust covers/caps and original Menani boot clamps
AP Lockheed dual calipers on custom mounts
Ceriani axle
Custom triple clamps with NOS Ceriani stem/damper knob
NOS Tommaselli Super Pratic throttle
NOS AP Lockheed classic master cylinder ($500 new, found at Mid-Ohio for $40)
Tommaselli clipons

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 27, 2014, 05:35:19 PM »

Glad to still be following this. That front end is so much more legit than some GSXR upside down swap.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 04, 2014, 03:53:29 PM »

Just finished my new deck and now that the weather is more and more unpredictable, its time to get back to working on the bike. Still working through the front end, now working on mocking up the Manx fender/mounts. I will wait to get whatever front tire before I finalize the mounting.

Really struggling with a solid mounting system for the seat. Im a big guy so I want it to be rock solid and I don't want to have to worry about when I roll on and off the seat cracking the tailpiece. I will be reinforcing it with a few more layers of fiberglass but have yet to come up to an idea Im ready to commit to. I would like to keep it mounted off the frame rails for sake of leg room. The widest part of the tail is about 2" wider than the frame so I will need to take that into account. I would appreciate any ideas (especially pictures) that will help me tackle this project.

Tintop · « **Reply #46 on:** October 05, 2014, 07:02:42 AM »

You might want to take a look at bwaller's seat mounting system. Post #22 I think.

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 05, 2014, 07:18:46 AM »

Got a link Tintop?

Tintop · « **Reply #48 on:** October 05, 2014, 11:24:10 AM »

Here you go - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=83871.0

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #49 on:** October 12, 2014, 04:03:55 PM »

Based on Tintop's recommendation to look at bwaller's mounting system, I have come up with a sub-frame mounted the top rails in order to raise the seat a bit as well as add structure to the fiberglass tail. I welded tabs on the side for alignment and to reduce and side play. The sub-frame will then have the steel seat pan/tailpiece mounted over top. After that, my upholstery pan will attach to that. The hoop will serve to help add strength to the rear of the tailpiece as well as help house the battery box and another mounting tab for the rear of the tailpiece above the tail light.

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Author Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F (Read 66739 times)