Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[seanbarney41]

lines.....colors......ohhh.....oops just puked in my mouth a bit.  Thank goodness I am pretty sure there is more vintage speed part awsomeness still to come.

[slikwilli420]

lines.....colors......ohhh.....oops just puked in my mouth a bit.  Thank goodness I am pretty sure there is more vintage speed part awsomeness still to come.

Don't worry Sean, I'm not planning to disappoint in the vintage parts department but the devil is in the details. I would like to show this bike as well as ride it. Fortunately paint is easy to change but can make all the difference.

[slikwilli420]

Still alive and kicking on this one! Thanks to some time off I can tackle a bunch of things I have been eyeing for a long time. The Marzocchi Strada shocks had been powdered over a year ago but I just got around to getting everything assembled. One down and one to go. These were top quality in the day so should work just fine with all fresh seals and oil.



I've also been sitting on the rough water jet cut version 2.0 of the rear engine mount. Finally just started making chips and got it done. Seems like I make everything twice but in this case it was well worth it. All of the engine hanger bolts are being converted too ARP 12 point as well.



Up next is the other shock, paint on the tank and final mounting of tank, oil tank and seat. Electrical, hydraulic clutch and battery mount are about the last big items but it seems like the detail list is getting longer by the second.

[754]

 That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

[slikwilli420]

That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

That's for sure. I'm not real fast on the mill but I think I have about 3 hours into it. Turned out great but not real wild about making more.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Frank makes some bad-ass engine mounts.  Ask me how I know . . . 

[seanbarney41]

That rear mount looks really good..real timesucker to make those,,

That's for sure. I'm not real fast on the mill but I think I have about 3 hours into it. Turned out great but not real wild about making more.

,,,sucks,,,,I want some

[slikwilli420]

 I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

[754]

I would not worry about that.
 I did make a few motor mount long bolts, turned them out of 1/2 bar to a tighter size than stock.
 I dont know what the ARP Cost for say a 3/8... I was using up my stock of Chrome Gardner Wescott 3/8 Allen nuts.... No idea what they cost now... But the look pretty good.
 When you buy chrome fasteners from GW , the threads always fit.

[Godffery]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

[slikwilli420]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

I used 1/4-28 ARP bolts with a nut. They fit really nicely in the hole and I was able to find a perfect length vs an M6 bolt.

[slikwilli420]

I'm working on switching all the engine bolts over to the 12pt ARP fasteners and wanted to know if I will risk warping the case halves if I remove one at a time to get a length measurement? I would replace the bolt and snug it up before going to the next. Will I hurt anything doing this?

 I have done that same thing with no ill effects.

BTW; what kind of bolts did you put in the rotor to rotor carrier?

I used 1/4-28 ARP bolts with a nut. They fit really nicely in the hole and I was able to find a perfect length vs an M6 bolt.

You won't warp the cases by swapping 1 at a time. There's not nearly enough torque on them to do so. Why are you using SAE thread on a metric machine? Blasphemer!

Try www.allensfasteners.com for the ARPs. The website is a bit wonky, but all the stainless 12 and hex points are there. You can oder raw 303/304 stock in metric rod from McMaster if you need to make longer bolt not available from ARP. Turn threads onto the rod, spin on an ARP nut, weld it, face it in the lathe.

Already well ahead of you Cal. I came across Allens a few years ago. It's still the only place I have found single ARP fasteners.

Regarding standard vs metric thread. I used the one that was best for the job and the 1/4c fasteners fit more snugly than an m6 and the length was perfect so no trimming. I also used 5/16 for the bolts to attach the rotors to the front hub since m8 wasn't available that long.

[754]

Oh yeah, Gardener wescott has lotsof 12 point bolts as well.... Chromed.
You may want to consider red loctited the one nut on...
 We were tig welding nuts on axles, and at least one time we had micro cracksm

[slikwilli420]

Nuts for all the hanger bolts are already welded and finished. 

[Godffery]

 Ha, My OCD will not allow me to mix SAE and metric !   

[slikwilli420]

Little pre-Christmas fun for me. I went crazy and picked up every bolt needed for the engine except the ones underneath like lower case bolts and oil pan. I will do those soon though.

I also fit up the engraved Rickman points cover with some ARP fasteners as well. I had to make the pocket for each bolt bigger but it looks killer.

I also decided to turn a 12pt ARP bolt until a banjo for my oil pressure gauge since the chrome one I had looked out of place. The final assembly is a bit wide so I'm going to try and slim down the plug and bolt a bit to narrow it all.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Cool remote rig. Where are you mounting the pressure gauge?

[slikwilli420]

The line goes to a sending unit that makes the signal electronic. The gauge will be on the dash with the speedo/ tach.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The line goes to a sending unit that makes the signal electronic. The gauge will be on the dash with the speedo/ tach.

Nice!

[754]

Why not run it off the oil light port, more hidden...or run that line down behind the point cover and under, or under carbs ?

[slikwilli420]

Why not run it off the oil light port, more hidden...or run that line down behind the point cover and under, or under carbs ?

The line routing isn't set in stone yet so I might go behind the engine as well. I may end up using hard line too for an even cleaner look.  I could have come off the pressure sender too but I'll probably just plug that off.

[slikwilli420]

I received my m unit today and in reading through the manual is says I need wire ferrules.  What have other m unit users used for installation?  There are kits on amazon but I don't want to buy junk.

[philgresty]

I received my m unit today and in reading through the manual is says I need wire ferrules.  What have other m unit users used for installation?  There are kits on amazon but I don't want to buy junk.

these are what i used, worked a treat, the yellow pin was too big but nothing youll be connecting will warrant that. the red and blue push into the m unit snug.
these are in the UK but im sure youll be able to find some near to you
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insulated-Straight-Pin-Terminal-Connector-Terminals-Crimp-Electrical-Terminal-/201626290937?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[slikwilli420]

If I choose to use them should they be soldered as well as crimped?

[RAFster122s]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David