Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[slikwilli420]

Little pre-Christmas fun for me. I went crazy and picked up every bolt needed for the engine except the ones underneath like lower case bolts and oil pan. I will do those soon though.

I also fit up the engraved Rickman points cover with some ARP fasteners as well. I had to make the pocket for each bolt bigger but it looks killer.

I also decided to turn a 12pt ARP bolt until a banjo for my oil pressure gauge since the chrome one I had looked out of place. The final assembly is a bit wide so I'm going to try and slim down the plug and bolt a bit to narrow it all.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Cool remote rig. Where are you mounting the pressure gauge?

[slikwilli420]

The line goes to a sending unit that makes the signal electronic. The gauge will be on the dash with the speedo/ tach.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The line goes to a sending unit that makes the signal electronic. The gauge will be on the dash with the speedo/ tach.

Nice!

[754]

Why not run it off the oil light port, more hidden...or run that line down behind the point cover and under, or under carbs ?

[slikwilli420]

Why not run it off the oil light port, more hidden...or run that line down behind the point cover and under, or under carbs ?

The line routing isn't set in stone yet so I might go behind the engine as well. I may end up using hard line too for an even cleaner look.  I could have come off the pressure sender too but I'll probably just plug that off.

[calj737]

I rather like how you have it, Willi. No reason to hide your custom touches in my opinion.

[slikwilli420]

I received my m unit today and in reading through the manual is says I need wire ferrules.  What have other m unit users used for installation?  There are kits on amazon but I don't want to buy junk.

[philgresty]

I received my m unit today and in reading through the manual is says I need wire ferrules.  What have other m unit users used for installation?  There are kits on amazon but I don't want to buy junk.

these are what i used, worked a treat, the yellow pin was too big but nothing youll be connecting will warrant that. the red and blue push into the m unit snug.
these are in the UK but im sure youll be able to find some near to you
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insulated-Straight-Pin-Terminal-Connector-Terminals-Crimp-Electrical-Terminal-/201626290937?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[calj737]

Not required. You can just tin the ends. Or, McMaster has them. I've done both. Also, they used to include the ferrules but many of the units I've handled never had them.

[slikwilli420]

If I choose to use them should they be soldered as well as crimped?

[calj737]

Crimp is more than sufficient, but I do use some shrink wrap with them.

[RAFster122s]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

[540nova]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

This is why we use ratcheting crimps in aviation.


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[slikwilli420]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

Will the Vintage Connections crimp tool and the die it comes with work for crimping wire ferrules? Wiring is one of those things I need to study up on so there may be a lot of questions regarding this topic coming soon.

[540nova]

Yes, I've used this tool for my complete rewire, including M-unit.


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[540nova]

Actually, I just remembered I used a different tool for the ferrules that go into the M unit. I will take a picture of it later on tonight and post up.


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[madmtnmotors]

Soldered was the way the factory went for a bit and then they found the vibration would cause the wire to break past the soldered area. Tough to control how far the solder wicked into the wire as well.  The gas tight crimp made by ratcheting crimpers like Vintage Connections sells gives you a superior gas tight mechanical joint which retains the wire flexibility.

David

Will the Vintage Connections crimp tool and the die it comes with work for crimping wire ferrules? Wiring is one of those things I need to study up on so there may be a lot of questions regarding this topic coming soon.

I highly recommend the proper crimp tool. I am not familiar with the "M" unit and do not know if Vintage Connections provides connectors suitable for the "M" unit. Here is a copy of my post from another thread, ironically titled "Electrical Connectors":



Strip it. I usually strip about a 1/4" to 5/16". Three-eights is a bit much and not necessary:






Don't forget the insulator! (ask me how I know):




I finally figured out (after about three tries) that it's easier to load the connector in the crimp tool first. Note the stepped jaw. The trailing end has a higher relief so as not to over crimp the insulation:




Ratchet down on it just enough to hold it:






You only need about a 1/4" of insulation extended into the connector. Too much and you get into the part of the crimp that should be catching wire only. The jaws are pretty wide and hard to see inside, so I use my thumbnail as a guide when inserting the wire:






Crimp it!:




Voila':




And finally, the insulator:




Procedure is the same for other types of connectors, just be sure to use the right insulator. Here we have the insulator for the female bullet:




Load the tool:




Crimp it... crimp it real good... and voila'!:




Slide the insulator into place:




Dang! This is how they must of looked when the bike was new!:






Give the wire a tug when you're done. Occasionally I will get a loose crimp, but most of the time it is a result of smaller gauge wire. In those cases I will strip 1/2" of insulation and double the wire back on itself to mimic a heavier gauge wire. These are my go-to connectors for all things automotive. 

[540nova]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.


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[540nova]

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[540nova]

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[madmtnmotors]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.

I'll put my double crimps up against any of the "dime store" single crimp connectors any day...

Nudging the connector back ever so slightly within the jaw of the tool should provide the "bellmouth" you speak of.

[540nova]

Almost right. You've crimped too far, cutting into the wire. You should have a bellmouth where the wire comes in. I prefer shrink tubing and Molex connectors.

I'll put my double crimps up against any of the "dime store" single crimp connectors any day...

Nudging the connector back ever so slightly within the jaw of the tool should provide the "bellmouth" you speak of.

Correct on the tool position, to achieve bellmouth.

I cringe every time I see those plastic automotive parts store connectors


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[madmtnmotors]

I cringe every time I see those plastic automotive parts store connectors

As do I. They do well in a pinch, but I view them as a temporary repair, which they are since they don't last very long! Good info on the bellmouth, the devil is in the details. 

[calj737]

These are the ferrules I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire-terminals/=15rkzh0

And the tool I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-tools/=15rkzxv

Okay 540Nova, go easy. I'm not an aircraft Pro  But I do cover the ferrule end to wire junction with shrink wrap: