Topic: Paint steps from bare metal **Clear finally sprayed September 16/14**

[calj737]

Base coat clears are sprayed under top coats, and over base color coats. They are used to apply pearls and metallics. Many "stylish", "flip-floppy" paint colors also use a base coat clear to add the effects.

Think of this way: color is on the bottom, "effects" are in the middle, and protection is on top. Unless you're familiar with modern paints, Base Clears are not common to at home jobs. This is why many professional painters want $600-> to reproduce these antique paint schemes. They require 4 layers, primer, base color, base clear, top clear. Lots of coats, lots of prep, lots of sanding. But, they look absolutely fantastic when done properly and professionally.

Many colors are also "transparent" these days. They can be sprayed over base coats, effectively becoming base "clears". Again, its the "effects" layer of a paint job.

Hope that 'splains things betterer'

[PGF550F]

Bru-tom, that's the exact 3M block I have. I guess I'll get after it with that one. Thanks for the education folks. I will post a few pics once I get going. 

[fendersrule]

I know it's exciting to get a first coat of primer on it, but still remember to take the time with the metal work. That's really where the profession comes in. With patience, anyone can do it.

I've always used cheap epoxies with success. The last brand I used was Omni and it was pretty good. I think it was still $100 for primer/reducer. That's about the going price.

[seanbarney41]

From what I have seen, only the "flake" colors (such as flake sunrise orange, flake apricot red)were cleared, and also the 77/78k and f bikes were definately clear coated (and mostly have failed!) candy colors were done like this...metallic silver base then candy coats thinly added until correct color is achieved.  It looks like it was nitro-celluose laquer with no clear coat.  This is why modern painting techniques don't effectively duplicate the original paint imo...

[PGF550F]

Well I said I would post updated pics as I got going but forgot that part so... here are some pictures of it "almost" finished.  I accepted a new job this spring and have been moving, packing, packing, moving, trying to sell a house... it goes on but I have managed to get a bit of time at it in the last while. Would have had this wrapped up in April had I not decided to take a new job. Still need to clear coat it and wet sand with 1500grit and then buff out but here is how it sits now and a few progress pictures. I am using smaller emblems from a 350 so thats why I filled half the emblem mounts.





This took me a LOONG TIME, cold winter so I needed something to do anyway plus all the comments about making sure it was cured "as long as my patience would allow" before moving to the next step. That advice certainly saved me from having sanding scratches show up later! 

The learning curve with body work isnt too bad. I actually enjoyed this but glad I wasnt on the clock to get it done...
Getting it close was easy! Getting it right was painstaking...

final sanding prior to sealer:


after several coats of metallic color, its a little darker than I was originally going for but I think Ill live with it.



Here is a refresher of what I started with:
 

here you can see the texture left that needs several coats of clear to get right. I cant wet sand this paint, tried it on a sidecover and its a no go.




I want to thank everyone for the advice and welcome any more that you might have.

My plan now is to make sure that the paint is well cured (month maybe?) and then clear coat it, wet sand and buff. thoughts?

[calj737]

Hmmm. You need to carefully read the application data on the color coat. Most paints have a flash time and application time between coats. It should not cure for 30 days before clear coat. Maybe, cure the clear for a couple of days before cut and buff, but I've never heard of or seen anyone using the approach you're describing.

[PGF550F]

Sorry, I was referring to letting the clear cure before wet sand& buff. I'm all thumbs typing sometimes.  I always thought that if you waited a few weeks the clear cures up stronger and you won't risk "burning" through it.  This is certainly an ongoing education. It's my first go at anything other than scuff and spray

[calj737]

Nope, you've got it right. Clears can cure a while, indefinitely actually, before you ever buff them.

Like the color lots.

[PGF550F]

Does anyone know where I can locate some spraymax 2k clear in canada? I do to want to have to buy a new gun just for clear and would like to take the "easy" way out and use a spray bomb. Anywhere that ships to canada even? Might have to respray my basecoat too cause I'll likely be outside my recoat window

[KayOne]

Carlson's auto body supplies in Edmonton stocks it.  Have you tried your local auto body supply?

[Muckinfuss]

PG...two things.  Google Spraymax Canada....all sorts of outlets for you to obtain the stuff. 

Now:  2 part catalyzed automotive urethanes are almost  impossible to tell one from the other when properly applied....some are a little softer than another.  Some are acrylic urethanes, there are vinyl urethanes, polyester urethanes, and so on.   Some have more UV filter material in them, but on whole, they all work well.  For automotive (cycle!) use, I prefer polyester urethanes over acrylic.  However..they take longer to cure, but cure out to a harder finish.  To the average guy, tho, you'd not notice any difference in the finished product.

Now, I have many years experience in the 2 part urethane world and I would ask you to take every possible precaution if you intend to apply this yourself.  The Isocyanate polymers in these films are there to make the cross-linking happen.  This is what ultimately results in both hardness and resistance to chemicals.  They are also very dangerous.  Cause cancer.  Give people who don't have asthma..asthma.  They are closely related to the chemicals used to gas Jews in WW2.

They are absorbed into the skin, through your eyes and you definitely don't inhale the fumes.  If you can smell it, you're inhaling it.  Even the rattle can versions are just as toxic.  They say right in the directions to cover your body and use a fresh air respirator.  The effects of these polymers can happen very quickly...it doesn't take years of exposure...it only takes minutes in some cases.  If you have a vocational school in your area, you might want to contact them to see if they'd take on your project if you supply the material.  They would have the correct supervision, protective gear, spray booth etc.  Something to consider.

Whatever you buy, pay attention to the cure window or the cutting and polishing will be a nightmare!

[calj737]

They are also very dangerous.  Cause cancer.  Give people who don't have asthma..asthma.  They are closely related to the chemicals used in WW2.

They are absorbed into the skin, through your eyes and you definitely don't inhale the fumes.  If you can smell it, you're inhaling it.  Even the rattle can versions are just as toxic.  They say right in the directions to cover your body and use a fresh air respirator.  The effects of these polymers can happen very quickly...it doesn't take years of exposure...it only takes minutes in some cases.  If you have a vocational school in your area, you might want to contact them to see if they'd take on your project if you supply the material.  They would have the correct supervision, protective gear, spray booth etc.

Read that again and again. That is no joke, and should be followed explicitly. Nasty stuff to humans.

[PGF550F]

Thanks for the replies guys! I have been wearing my Personal Protective Equipment so far and will continue to do so. I really enjoy breathing and hope to not stop doing that anytime soon. 

On the other note for where to get spraymax in canada, it can be found at any Chase Autobody supply chain. I found the closest one to me that has some in stock, I just have to get there during business hours to pick it up.  Hopefully I can get this thing cleared and let it cure so I can ride. My test tank from a lawn mower looks quite ridiculous bungy strapped to the frame.

[PGF550F]

Well after a couple of resprays to get my metallics right, I was finally able to spray some spraymax 2k clear coat on my tank and sidecovers. Ill Include a couple of pictures. Never having done metallic paint this was a learning process. I still need to wetsand and buff but I finally got this thing sprayed. Working 11hr days and waiting for the proper conditions to spray was agonizing... I could literally feel the riding season slipping away.(thankfully I was able to put some miles on my 72 CL350!! A survivor SOHC for sure, only 5300Miles on the odometer.)

Enough talk. Here are some photos.




I got some orange peel as well, so I will end up doing several more coats of clear after I wetsand, but I think I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

[70CB750]

Looking good, real good 

[albertaboy]

Impressive. You can take pride in that. Enjoy!!