Topic: CB550 K0 project

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I picked up a 1974 CB550 K0 back in July of 2013 and I've been meaning to put up a build thread and get some input from the SOHC4 community. My initial intentions were to build a bare bones, with next to no electronics, as lightweight as possible, kick only, cafe racer. These are some pictures of the bike the day I picked it up.

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I brought her home, got the safety, an old 3/4 helmet, Halcyon goggles, my M2 and started removing the excess almost immediately and added a nice cafe 'X' with electrical tape. (Yes it makes it faster) I also removed the vent tube and replaced with a K&N breather, some pre-planning for velocity stacks.

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I had some fuel problems in August so I removed the tank and fuel lines cleaned out some rust sitting in the fuel bowl and filter. Since the tank was already off I wanted to take it down to the bare steel and see what kind of shape the tank was in. I started sanding it and the tank looked like it had just been painted over and over different colours so I had it acid dipped. Once acid dipped I fell in love with the bare steel and brazed look so I took some scotchbrite and brushed the steel to shine it up, used some Eastwood Tank Sealant and clear coated to protect the steel.

 

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With the tank in brushed steel the blue side covers looked pretty odd, so I sanded them down, primed and painted them matte black. The combination of the steel and matte black gave the bike a more attractive cafe 'line'. I also purchased my second bike a 1969 CB450 K2 project that needs a full rebuild. This kind of opened my eyes and changed the direction of my 550 build. With the CB450 needing next to everything rebuilt, I decided to make it my bare bones cafe build and my 550 would become my stock modified build. I swapped the rear brake and mount off the 450 (has more of a classic honda look to me, also smaller) sandblasted the mount, primed and painted matte black, bolts right up to the 550 rear fender, plug and play. Also sanded primed and painted my headlight matte black, and my front disc brake caliper matte black to tie it all in.

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bike looks to be in very good shape, despite the original paint/over paint. You would do well to very carefully disassemble the bike of the parts you wish not to keep. In their original condition, they have value for many who prefer an original stock condition.

I agree, the brushed bare metal look is very appealing on the tank. I have the same bike, regrettably, it was not a candidate for bare metal.

Welcome

Thanks calj, very true, and had my bike had original paint I would have left it that way, love the original orange sunburst colour. PS love your build, its one of the 550 builds that inspired me.

I spend a lot of time in a local hotrod shop doing their designs and builds so luckily I knew the value of good quality original parts. I have all of the original parts I'm not using off the 550 and 450 parts all cleaned up and stored for now including an original set of K0 - K2 CB450 exhaust I removed from my 450 when I purchased it in near mint condition. Ill be posting some of it when I get a chance.

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Some more pics when I removed the rear fender and tail light. The rear fender was rough underneath so I masked it off and sandblasted the underside, primed, and painted matte black. (I had a couple cans of it, might as well use them)

PS If anyone has a set screw and nut, (the screw with the spring on it for adjusting and setting your front disc brake) for a CB550 I would be interested in purchasing one. As you can see from the last picture the previous owner snapped this one off.

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Must explain that yummy bow tie in the background of your pics.

That is my first love. A 1969 Camaro RS pro-touring build I have been working on. I bought it off eBay in 2008, drove it for a summer and tore it apart. (I have a habit of doing that) She just wasn't performing up to my standards. Did some sketches for it and some CAD for a full frame to accommodate a 50/50 weight distribution, channeled through the frame and 2" wider front and rear end, picked up a GM LS7 out of a Z06 Corvette, Tremec T-56 Magnum (Corvette ZR1 trans ie. TR6060), sitting on Nitto NT05 12" rubber and wheels in the rear on custom Bonspeed wheels 19", 18" wheels with 8" NT05 rubber up front. Wilwood big disc brake kit, Bears custom rear end, full AirRide system, 4-link rear end, flaming river rack and pinion steering, and tons more good stuff. She's an ongoing project that now requires 20K for a supercharged LS7 build to get her close to 1000 engine hp, 10k on interior, and another 10k or so on Carbon Fiber and body mods. When she's done I plan testing her out in autocross racing to get her properly tuned in and maybe make a few more changes depending on how she does.

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Unfortunately I live in a colder climate than most and in mid November riding was spotty and with less time to do the ton and more time to play I came up with a design for a bracket that turns my iPhone into a digital speedometer with GPS navigation, a 'GoPro' with audio and video capabilities, with up to the minute reports on weather, and my favourite SOHC4 articles and builds. Its lightweight, reduces the number of cables needed and cleans up the front end.

If anyone is interested I can make these for any bike. The design works with whatever phone case and belt-clip setup you want to use. I have 2 designs for the CB550 one with stock, drag, clubman, or other top mount bars, the other is for clip-ons all with the stock top triple tree. Pictured on the bike is the design that works with the top mounting bars. The CAD rendering is design 2. I can readily make these and I am just waiting on a quote for 250 units. Any ordered would be CNC cut from aluminium, with optional black anodizing.

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This is the CAD I did for the second design for use with clip-ons and stock top triple tree.

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I took a vacation and went down to Florida to visit my parents in late November and used it as an excuse to check out Dime City Cycles. I can't say enough about these guys, Kara and Chris dropped what they were doing and took the time to help me figure out what parts I actually wanted for my 550 build. Needless to say I left with a box full, and a lighter wallet. (lighter wallet = lighter rider, therefore faster bike?) Picked up a full setup to change over to vortex clip-ons with new shorty levers, new switches, DCC bar end mirror, slim barrel brown grips, new headlight mounts, and a new thottle.

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Some pictures of the projects as of January 2014. Can you ever have enough projects?

The front forks weren't easily removed, and looks like I need new fork seals. Judging by the fluid that came out of the forks they haven't been changed in a while. Any one have suggestions on where to go in Ontario, Canada for fork seals, wheel bearings, and a tapper roller bearing kit for a cb550?

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AllBalls tapered bearings for the steering head.

Re forks: two choices here, Progressive springs OR cartridge emulators. Progressive springs maintain stock look, emulators upgrade the look. Both deliver great upgrade in handling. I used Progressives on my 550, have Cartridges in my 500 via GSXR front end.

Thanks, cartridge emulators look pretty cool. Ill look into it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

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Great call on making the 550 a restomod. It's too clean to cut up. I like the iPhone bracket but I'm using aftermarket upper triples.

+1 as to AllBalls for the seals and bearings. I have the Race Tech springs and gold valve emulators. It's a great upgrade for a restomod.

Looking forward to more on this.

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With the font end apart I decided to sandblast the wheels, brake parts, lower forks, and a few other parts for powder coating or paint. I got tired of looking at the solid disc and these 550's were known to have brake issues to I thought I'd take this opportunity to CAD up the front disc and CNC some cross drilled holes to improved both the aesthetics and functionality while reducing a couple ounces.

If anyone is looking to have their stock CB550 disc machined, cross drilled, slotted, or customized let me know. I can make the CAD and have it made to order.

I also removed the rear sprocket cover to make up CAD to CNC a pattern. Thinking of making some 1/2 holes and welding mesh in behind and carry this on into the rear drum cover and some other parts as well. Any have any thoughts on drilling holes in your sprocket cover or drum brake cover. I've seen it done before, sometimes tastefully, sometimes it looks like someone got a new drill.

Should the inside of the sprocket case look like the last 2 pictures? I found some pieces of a chain in a pile of chain lube and I'm wondering if there is a seal gone.

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I was wondering whether to replace the chain and sprockets. They look fine, but they are worn. And I do want to create a little more torque so maybe Ill bump up the rear sprocket a little, throw in a nice gold/brass chain. Any suggestions for increased torque and power off the line?

I'm also considering making a partial sprocket cover to original specs that leaves most of the sprocket case open but allows for a starter cover to be re-attached and a little more protection for the wiring.   

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Since you have access to a CNC, I would suggest slotting your rotors in addition to cross-drilling holes. Also, take a look at Raccia Motorcycles CB550 build for a cool idea on opening up the front sprocket cover.

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Since you have access to a CNC, I would suggest slotting your rotors in addition to cross-drilling holes. Also, take a look at Raccia Motorcycles CB550 build for a cool idea on opening up the front sprocket cover.

Great idea, I was considering slotting and I left some space between the cross drilled hole pattern in case I want to add it in later. I may have to revisit that idea.

Its funny how many times I've seen this build on Bike Exif and other sites, but I have never noticed the sprocket cover. That is beautiful. I might have to step it up and add in my own touch.

Thanks for the info calj, more awesome stuff to look up and spend my money on. As far as a cam swap, I've heard of a lot of people using the 650 cam. When I pull the motor I was going to do a big bore kit and possibly do the 650 cam swap, does this require a 650 head too?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

No 650 head required for the cam swap. If you are going to stay with an analog tach, you will also need a 650 tach drive and 650 tach. Otherwise, you can plug the tach hole and go without a tach or with a digital tach.

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While I was checking out racetech's catridge emulators and springs I found TNK fork tubes in copper, gold, black, and chrome finish. I have been looking for brass/gold tubes for this build but they don't seem to make them in a 35mm tube for the CB550. Anyone seen any around or know where I can get some to fit my 550? My tubes are near perfect with the only markings being from the clamps with minimal rust, do you think they can be powder coated brass/gold without causing any issues?

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I spoke with the powder coating guy, he says the powder will add too much material to the forks and interfere with the fork seals. He also said that the powder can be rough in spots which would wear the seals prematurely but he could powder or paint the forks from the point of max. travel to the top triple so it looks brass in colour.

I also spoke with a company about dlc coating, they can do it for $240/fork tube with minimal material and it 'should' work.

So new plan, take aluminium tube with a 35mm or close ID and thin wall, cut them down to length and powder coat brass colour and polish to make some tight fitting fork covers that look like brass forks.

I also did a quick photoshop rendering of the direction I'm going. I'll be designing and building most of the custom parts myself, other than a few components that are already too beautiful to ignore and not add to your bike ie. FrankenFrankenStuff clear points cover and stainless exhaust by MotoGP werks.

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I picked up another bike as a parts bike for my 550. Its a 1972 CB500 with a 1974 CB550 engine. I only needed a couple parts of it but it was the right price and now I have a spare engine. I am considering selling any parts I'm not going to be using and I'll post them when I get a chance. Is there anything off a 72 CB500 in particular any one is looking for?

I'm also looking for some nice rear shocks, something in the 13" - 14" range with reservoirs. If they are black and brass or gold then huge bonus! Any body have some shocks they love the look of or know some that really perform well for a race bike/cafe?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I picked up another bike as a parts bike for my 550. Its a 1972 CB500 with a 1974 CB550 engine. I only needed a couple parts of it but it was the right price and now I have a spare engine. I am considering selling any parts I'm not going to be using and I'll post them when I get a chance. Is there anything off a 72 CB500 in particular any one is looking for?

I'm also looking for some nice rear shocks, something in the 13" - 14" range with reservoirs. If they are black and brass or gold then huge bonus! Any body have some shocks they love the look of or know some that really perform well for a race bike/cafe?

I guess it depends on what you regard as "nice," but you post indicates you want something that will "perform well for a race bike/cafe."  At the higher end range, you can purchase Race Tech or Works shocks.  Both have piggyback reservoir models available.  The shocks are made to order, and you can request certain colors.  You will be spending upwards of $700.   

Ohlins suspension is one of the best, and even more expensive.  Ohlins makes piggyback shocks but I have not found them available with a bottom clevis mount.  Buzz at Dynoman says they do not make them for the Honda CB line (with a clevis mount).  Aside from spending more coin on Ohlins, you will also need to fabricate new mounts on your swingarm.

I was not sure what you meant about your last post on fork tubes.  If you are set on colored tubes, they you can consider TNK Titanium Nitride coating (http://racetech.com/page/title/FTNK%20Fork%20Tubes) or other anodizing.  If you want black, you can also look into black chrome plating.  Powdercoating will be too thick and will not work.

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If I understand you right, you're going to make an aluminum sleeve for the fork sliders? I think this sounds, er, sketchy.

The fitment won't matter, the clamping pressure won't hold the forks together with the sleeve. This will allow the fork to slide free and come loose of the steering trees. Very dangerous.

Also, I can't imagine that these sleeves wouldn't interfere with the compression stroke of the shock's travel.

Do you seek a means of changing the upper fork color? If so, spend the money to have the upper anodized or plated. Powder coat is not recommended as your guy told you. OR, swap to upside forks from a modern sport bike and get the look you want. I mean no offense, but I think you're headed in a very dangerous direction....

The covers would only fit between the upper and lower triple tree and would not be clamped to the forks by the triples, just 'float' in between like stock fork covers. Otherwise, that would be sketchy to say the least lol. I know the rendering shows the forks bare (without gaitors/boots) I just wanted to see the difference but with this idea I would be using boots.

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Ya I have an extra set of the stock ears, good idea. But the stock ears are a little bulky looking, if I fab the aluminium ones they would be as tight to the fork tubes as possible.

I ordered an aluminium top triple, stainless bolt kit, and rear sets a  couple weeks ago from Bullit Custom cycles in Acton. The parts look great but the top triple needs a little work for better fitment.



Does anyone know if the tapered roller bearing steering kit on a 550 needs the top bearing cap/ lock nut? I need to get this new top triple to sit lower on the steering stem.




The rear sets are a universal kit and I was planning on using the passenger pegs for mounting but I need to fab some spacers to keep the linkage and controls from rubbing on the frame.







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[mvttryvn]

Who did the acid dip on the tank? I was thinking about blasting mine, polishing it and throwing clear on top but yours came out awesome.

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Remove the top cap and position the new clamp against the bearing dust shield. This should still prevent the underside from rubbing the steering head collar.

Fo your rearsets, you can use an offset from shift arm. Check out fastfromthepast.clm to order one up. They also have offset brake rods should you need.

When I remove the cap the bearings are exposed. Should there be a separate dust shield?


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Who did the acid dip on the tank? I was thinking about blasting mine, polishing it and throwing clear on top but yours came out awesome.

I took the tank to a place here in town that acid dips everything from industrial components, to classic cars. Make sure where ever you go, they neutralize the acid and coat the tank inside and out with oil right after otherwise it will 'flash' rust and you'll be back where you started.


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I was not sure what you meant about your last post on fork tubes.  If you are set on colored tubes, they you can consider TNK Titanium Nitride coating (http://racetech.com/page/title/FTNK%20Fork%20Tubes) or other anodizing.  If you want black, you can also look into black chrome plating.  Powdercoating will be too thick and will not work.

I am pretty set on brass/gold tubes for this bike but TNK doesn't offer 35mm replacement tubes for a CB550, so I emailed them asking a few questions about having them coat my tubes and I haven't heard anything back.

I figured out the problem with the top triple, the supplier sent me one that still needed some machine work so he's sending me another one that will fit. Made some 1/2" aluminium spacers for the rear sets and cut some aluminium tube to cover the threaded rods from collecting dirt. The outside of the tube is now 1/2" and its looking a little bulky. I'm thinking of picking up some 5/16 tube and threading the ends for heim joints.

I received my bearing and seals kits from All Balls. I decided to go with the All Balls because they make all the bearings and seals I need and I've heard good things about their tapered roller bearing kit (once installed properly). I also got one of Franken's clear points covers, can't wait to get this baby painted up and on the bike.

I am looking into either making my own belly pan/lower faring or using one off a sport bike. I also found these guys: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagebellypan.htm has anyone here used these on their bikes? post pictures of your bike if you have.

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I am rewiring the handle bar controls and headlight for my 1974 CB550 K0 and I'm running into a few electrical issues and after reading through the Electrical section in FAQs (which if I understand correctly I am just a few splices away from having a fully working bike) and looking over a few wiring diagrams I am a little uncertain of my wiring.

I rebuilt the front and rear end over the winter and I have switched over to clip-ons, with all new parts. I am replacing the old stock honda switches with two K&S switches that I purchased from Dime City Cycles and I am no longer running gauges, gauge lights, clutch switch, or turn signals. On the left clip-on I am using http://www.kandstech.com/pimages/12-0050.html (picture 1) this is used as my headlight/tail light on/off, high beam, and low beam, and the kill button is now my horn. On the right I am using http://www.kandstech.com/pimages/12-0203.html (picture 2) this is my electric start and kill switch. I have the horn and electric start working but I don't have power to the headlight or headlight fuse and I can still turn the engine over even with the kill switch in the off position. I tested the headlight and bulb outside of the wiring harness, Hi and Lo Beam work.

To make matters more confusing the PO had the fuses mixed up or he was an electrical genius. On my bike the fuse panel from left to right reads 5A (Tail Light) 7A(Headlight) 15A(Main) on the fuse block. the PO had a 7A fuse in the 5A (Tail Light) and 14A in the 7A(Headlight) and some screwy wiring on the ignition switch (picture 3) but I ran the bike like this all last season with all stock honda parts and I had no problems. Started right up, all lights and switches worked not one problem. While wiring this time I noticed the 7A fuse in the 5A (Tail Light) location was blown (my guess is a short somewhere) I have checked the battery, the fuse panel, the grounds, no disconnected wires, no signs of a short or any other problems found yet other than the screwy ignition wiring.

To make things easy I referenced the Haynes electrical diagram and made my own as I wired.

K&S Switches ----------------> CB550 Harness

LEFT SWITCH
HORN
WHITE----------------------------------LIGHT GREEN
BLACK----------------------------------GREEN

HEADLIGHT - no power to headlight or to headlight fuse
YELLOW (Hi Beam)--------------------BLUE (Hi Beam)
GREEN (Lo Beam)---------------------WHITE (Lo Beam)
RED (Power)---------------------------BROWN/RED (Headlight to fuse)
BLUE (Tail Light)-----------------------BROWN/WHITE (to IGNITION and to Headlight Fuse)

RIGHT SWITCH
ELECTRIC START
BLUE/WHITE---------------------------YELLOW/RED
BLACK----------------------------------GREEN/RED

RUN/KILL
RED/BLACK----------------------------BLACK
RED/WHITE----------------------------BLACK/WHITE

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Air-Tech is a pretty established company.  They make tons of fiberglass reproduction parts, including gas tanks and body work.  The quality is very good, but many of their parts require you to fabricate your own mounts/brackets.

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I don't mind making my own brackets. I tend to make my own anyway.

I'm still not sure why the headlight system isn't getting any power but I know it has something to do with this new switch and the lack of wires/connections to the 550 harness. I bypassed the switch completely and hooked the headlight system into the black wire from the ignition just to put power to the system but I still want to use the switch to control power on/ off as well any ideas how?


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