Author Topic: A couple electrical q's  (Read 1664 times)

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Offline xntrik

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A couple electrical q's
« on: February 12, 2014, 05:37:29 AM »
The "parking" switch on my 78 just decintegrated. Replacement prices are StOoPiD high, so I'll probably be fabbing something new.

Just want to confirm that the four PARKING switch wires serve only two functions, a secondary brake light switch, and to illuminate the park light.

Next....

I'm getting ready to go through the carbs and want to test the solenoid valve (electrical vac actuator deelio). Looks like its supposed to see 7 volts. Correct?

I'm probably just going to use some old weak 9v battery, but wanted to make sure it is 7 an not B+, as I don't really want to fry it.

Thanks all!


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Offline raymond10078

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Re: A couple electrical q's
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2014, 08:38:37 AM »
The solenoid is 12V, not 7V.  Only the fuel tank gauge is 7V. I have used a 9V battery to test mine - worked fine.

You are correct for the parking switch.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2014, 08:41:42 AM by kandrtech »
1978 CB750A (upgrading very, very slowly)

Past bikes - Honda: SL350, CX650C, CB900C, CB1000C, CM450A; Kawasaki: several 1972 750 H2's; Suzuki: TC90J.

Bikes I want: CX650ED, a mid-sized japanese V-twin with ABS.

Offline xntrik

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Re: A couple electrical q's
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2014, 01:14:14 AM »
I've found some promising options for a replacement park switch, has anyone else ever fabbed up a replacement?

How about the cable, are there any homemade remedies for a broken one? Looks like just a generic end. Only catch is that the replacement would have to "lock" on, from what I see.


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Offline xntrik

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Re: A couple electrical q's
« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2014, 01:46:19 AM »
As an update.... Since my park switch had literally disintegrated, I decided to try to take it down as far as possible, just to see how it works, cause I'm like that. Anyways, I figured out how to fix these things, I'll do a write up when I'm totally done fixing mine. A common neutral safety switch with a 10mm thread, coupled with jumping the two green/yellow-stripe wires together on the bike harness where the switch would usually plug into would also do. But I'm a purist. And I like to fix things.


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