Topic: Bad Head/Wheel Bearings - How to tell?

[Dr. Noisewater]

Hey guys I finally got my project 550F licensed and legal for the road. I gave it a solid walk through, triple checked every nut/bolt, and set out for the inaugural run.. and got pulled over in the first two mins because my license plate was too flat. At least the officer had plenty of compliments for the bike haha.

Once I finally got on my way I set out down the road at about 30 mph. It seemed there was a slight bounce to the front end. All I've done to the front is clean the wheel and had new tires front and rear mounted/balanced by the local Honda shop.

I haven't done anything with the forks. I'll be replacing the fork springs and fluid in the next week or so, but whatever's in the forks now is probably 20+ years old. The forks move up and down but they're obviously not in the best condition. Could old gummy fork oil cause a slight bounce?

My main question though, as the title states, is how can I tell if wheel bearings, head bearings, swing arm bushings etc. are bad? This is my first bike and until now I haven't had a need to investigate the various bearings, but I don't even know what to look for.

What would the symptoms be? Would bad wheel bearings cause the wheel to wobble laterally? Would bad head bearings cause a loose feeling (slop) in the steering? And how can I tell if the swing arm is moving as it should?

I'll be taking the bike out again today to try it on different roads at different speeds. Who knows it could've just been the road I was on, but I should still know how to identify bad bearings. Thanks for the help!

[bjbuchanan]

Neck/head bearings are real easy to check. Pop the bike on the centerstand, or jack up the front, whatever it takes for the front end to be up off the ground. Rotate the bars from center, any resistance, almost like you get over a hump and then the bars flop over? Your handlebars should not be self centering, if you tilt them the bars flop right over in either direction. If not, they are shot

[LesterPiglet]

Heavy steering is a giveaway.
Get more air in that licence plate mate. 

[Don R]

If in doubt about the wheel bearings, replace them, I've seen a few recently and the grease is dried out. All balls has them. I had catchy neck bearings, the bike was hard to steer straight at low speeds. It looked like I didn't know how to ride. If I stopped and turned the forks lock to lock a few times, the dents in the bearings would mix up and it rode OK until they lined up again.

[Johnie]

To check the swingarm put the bike on center stand. Try to move the back tire left and right. If you have play back and forth your bushings are worn.
On a bike that old I always replace the wheel bearings. Why not? They have seen their life and you can change them all for just around $50 if you can do it yourself. And with the help we can give you...do it yourself.
As far as the wheel hop goes, hopefully they balanced the tires good. Possibly the wheel needs truing which mean being sure the center hub in the wheel is actually in the center. You need special tools for that as that adjustment is made by spoke tightening. I would get that fork oil changed and then be sure the fork seals are not leaking which you should see oil on the side of the forks. Good idea to pick up a service manual too. Good luck and let us know how you come out.

[Dr. Noisewater]

Great thanks guys. I'll give everything a look over. I learned avon recommends tire pressure to be 33 front and 39 rear. Mine were at 25 and 28 per the manual. Maybe this will help.

Slight change in topic:
Now I'm concerned about the clutch.. Decided to adjust it cause I noticed the last time I rode it it was grabbing really far out. I went to tweak the adjuster nut/bolt on the side cover and when turning the bolt clockwise with a flathead it will go on forever without resistance and seemingly no effect other than losing all pressure at the lever. I had to back it all the way out in order to get the lever feeling normal again. Obviously not normal, but I dunno what the issue could be. Ideas?

Also, with bike on center stand and in gear, should I be able to spin the rear tire freely when I pull the clutch in? Mine does not. It'll move easier than if the clutch is out and in gear, but not nearly as easy as it is in neutral. Input?

Thanks guys.


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[Schnell]

Well, the issue you describe in your last paragraph sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaged.

[seanbarney41]

One other thing...front end bounces and wobbles can often be caused by a mis-adjusted, worn, un-lubed drive chain

[Fritz]

Great thanks guys. I'll give everything a look over. I learned avon recommends tire pressure to be 33 front and 39 rear. Mine were at 25 and 28 per the manual. Maybe this will help.

Forget about the manual this time. The tires that you have were not available back in the 70s. You should use the pressure that the tire manufactor recommends. I've got Bridegestone BT45s and they recommend 36 and 40. 25 and 28 would surely make them feel wobbly...

[Dr. Noisewater]

Just got back from a good solid ride. The extra air pressure definitely smoothed it out. I still feel a slight bounce on occasion and some vibrations here and there, but it feels pretty solid all the way up to 70. I need more time on it to determine if the random bounces/vibrations are really the bike or just the road.

Today was the first time that bike has seen such speed in probably 25 years. The title I got with it was signed over back in '87 and the bike sat in a field ever since. Man it felt good rippin it down some country roads!


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[Dr. Noisewater]

I will add though.. The clutch adjustment issue is definitely a concern. If anyone can give me an idea of things I should look at that'd be cool. When riding it feels pretty normal, but it catches very far out.

Schnell, anything I could do to test your theory?

Thanks for the help guys!


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[LesterPiglet]

Test the clutch with the front brake on or the wheel against a wall. Put it in first and try to ride. Keep increasing the revs to stop it stalling out. This will give you an idea if it's biting properly and where it's biting.

[Retro Rocket]

Bad head, look in the mirror, wheel bearing feel for side play ....

[Schnell]

A manual will provide the steps to properly adjust your clutch. Perhaps someone with this knowledge for your bike, will post. I'm not sure if my 750K5 procedure would be the same. Good luck with your bike!

[Dr. Noisewater]

Sorry, maybe I should clarify.. I understand how to adjust the clutch, but when I try to set the lock nut/bolt on the side cover the bolt just keeps turning forever without hitting any resistance and the lever loses all pressure. It may still be different than the 750, but just wanted to make sure the issue was stated clearly.. even though this is off topic from the title. Time to start searching.

Thanks guys!

[bjbuchanan]

Get the bike warmed up good so the oil is nice and warm then adjust the clutch. Slack totally at the bars and slack at the engine case. I loosen it to where the cable is totally floppy.

If you have trouble feeling the spot then take the little spring off, it can make it easier to feel the resistance. I personally think it is very obvious feeling, but some don't. Turn it in til resistance then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Take almost all slack out at the engine and then fine tune at the bars. only want a little slack at the bars, about 1/2" of play. If your hands are too small for that then get a dogleg style lever. these clutches are far out from the handlebar, it doesn't mean it is wrong

That is a surefire way to adjust the clutch every time

[Dr. Noisewater]

Awesome thanks! I didn't know the cable was supposed to be loose before adjusting the lock nut. I also have a custom length clutch cable from motionpro. It was unusable at first because the inner was way too long. I made a spacer to take up the slack but maybe it wasn't enough. I'll try the correct method and hopefully things work out, if not I'll try making another spacer.

[Stev-o]

How old is your clutch cable? If you don't know, replace it.  They stretch and can have symptoms you describe.