Author Topic: Best way to clean up cb750 engine? (Read 5322 times)

75 super sport · « **on:** February 25, 2014, 09:57:07 AM »

Just looking for the best process with the best results for cleaning up my cb750 motor. It is not extremely dirty, does have some dirt/oil but just want to bring back to a shiny finish. Thanks in advance for the advice.

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NobleHops · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2014, 09:59:45 AM »

Use that Google searchbox just above to search for engine painting threads. That and oven cleaner to remove clearcoat and and and. Many have gone before you, search is your friend.

flybox1 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:10:18 AM »

here's what i've used recently.
Gunk engine degreaser. S100 Engine cleaner Simple Green. ZEP Purple degreaser.
one or two of these, and various scrub brushes is all you really need.
For heavy caked on degreasing/scrubbing, I like the ZEP Purple the best.
For general wipedowns or loose grease/dirt....i'll grab the simple green..

jamesb · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:11:13 AM »

I like zep industrial cleaner or purple power it's good too. But I prefer zep products I have had better results with it. Let it soak for a few minutes lightly scrub and wash off And it looks brand new.

flybox1 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:50:47 AM »

Wear gloves, too. That ZEP stuff is strong

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:53:55 AM »

pressure washer at car wash

DH · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:57:16 AM »

+1 on the simple. I use simple green straight out of a squirt bottle, (only for the engine) Let it soak a few
mins, soft brush in the fins if needed, rinse off completely. Works for the wheels too. Then wash the entire bike with quality
car wash soap. Rinse, chamois, then a light air blow dry to get the last bits of water out. Just my way of "skinnin the cat."
Test drive a few miles for air dry. takes about 1 1/2 hour.

flybox1 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2014, 11:04:09 AM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er on February 25, 2014, 10:53:55 AM

pressure washer at car wash

OK, Jerry.
I hope you're going to back that up with either specifics on where NOT to pressure wash -OR- be around to help diagnose electrical issues after said pressure washing

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2014, 12:09:10 PM »

Guess I never had a problem. I'd do this before going the detail route with all the cleaners, brushes, etc. My biggest concern has always been the engine paint vs the pressure and not getting the wand that close to the paint because it will peel.

Perhaps be careful around the points cover in case it's not sealed well. Maybe the handlebar controls but they're not that close to the engine. I'd like to think the bullet connectors are sealed well and/or packed with dielectric grease. Also I'd hope the plug wires are snug on both ends. Have I missed anything?

flybox1 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2014, 12:16:04 PM »

Nope, thats good.

Half giving you a hard time and half hoping to prevent a heavy-handed washing in all the wrong places.
Who knows what state the OP's bike is in

nortryder · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2014, 12:38:20 PM »

Pressure washer with heat if you can find one. Just read the previous posts warnings. And elbow grease. I use this coupled with lots of WD40. Spray down the entire bike and brusha brusha brusha. There were some very spiffy handmade wire brushes with stiff straight bristles that came straight out the end. For cleaning between fins etc. Unfortunately they were $ 50.00 or so. More than I was going to spend.

75 super sport · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2014, 01:00:11 PM »

Thanks guys. This has all been very helpful. I think I am going to give the zep industrial cleaner a whirl. Sounds like it gets the job done right the first time. Thanks again!

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Markcb750 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2014, 04:02:29 PM »

I have found CRC Brake cleaner does a nice job of dissolving grease & road grime. Much faster than anything else I have tried & I think it does less damage to the components because it is not a caustic it is a chlorinated solvent . Un-chlorinated is available but I have not tried it. My logic is if it is used on brakes with all the rubber and varied metal components...it will be OK for the motor.

Butthoonose?

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2014, 04:34:40 PM »

Spray cans of starting fluid literally vaporize really tough stuff...probably too expensive to do a whole grimy engine though.

NobleHops · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2014, 04:44:21 PM »

It's important to keep high pressure water away from pretty much anything with a seal, including the wheel bearings, steering head, and even an 0-ring chain. I'm not a fan myself, I think you're asking for trouble using a pressure washer on an old motorcycle. As for the comment that "I'd hope the bullet connections would be packed with dielectric grease", that's a bit of a stretch.

I'd DEFINITELY not come anywhere near the handlebar controls, gauges, headlight, or turnsignals with a pressure washer - that's asking for trouble sooner or later. So what's left to do that's worth hauling it out for? Pressure wash your rims, and the fins of your jugs, maybe the area under the carbs, the sump, CAREFULLY. Anything else is asking for trouble.

My $ .02

Markcb750 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2014, 04:53:19 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on February 25, 2014, 04:34:40 PM

Spray cans of starting fluid literally vaporize really tough stuff...probably too expensive to do a whole grimy engine though.

Wow...that would be scary, definitely keep smokers away!

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:08:16 PM »

Quote from: Markcb750 on February 25, 2014, 04:02:29 PM

I have found CRC Brake cleaner does a nice job of dissolving grease & road grime. Much faster than anything else I have tried & I think it does less damage to the components because it is not a caustic it is a chlorinated solvent . Un-chlorinated is available but I have not tried it. My logic is if it is used on brakes with all the rubber and varied metal components...it will be OK for the motor.

Butthoonose?

actually, I was gonna mention that your chlorinated solvent is extremely dangerous around welding equipment. Heat can combine with welding gas to create Hydrochloric gas. Some have been instantly killed or their lungs ruined for the rest of their miserable life. Be careful with this stuff everyone.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
this link is a little more accurate than my initial chemically illiterate ramblings...

ofreen · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2014, 06:03:01 PM »

I still like this stuff. I like it better than Simple Green, Purple Power, and any number of others. Get it at Costco if you are fortunate to have one around -

http://www.oileater.com/CleanerDegreaser.html

mrbreeze · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:49:16 PM »

That is great stuff Greg. When I lived in Wyoming we used it at a place I worked that sold used cars. Under the hood you spray it everywhere and let it sit for awhile. Then just hose it off or steam clean and it looks fantastic. I don't think the Oil Eater you get in California is as good or maybe it was just better back in the late 90's.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2014, 02:30:07 AM »

Killer Gas good tip!

I generally do not clean with anything except a wire brush when I weld, never thought of using a solvent; might have to try that next time. No CRC though!

I do have a Costco, I will look for oil eater. Thanks

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Author Topic: Best way to clean up cb750 engine? (Read 5322 times)

DH

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Markcb750

Markcb750