Author Topic: Rod Bolts (Read 13668 times)

andrewsmotorsports.com · « **on:** March 06, 2014, 01:07:07 PM »

Hi, I have noticed that the rod bolts and nuts are no longer available from honda and wondering what people are doing for rod bolts? Are there aftermarket ones or are most reusing them?? Honda spec calls for 14.5ft/lb torque on the nuts? Is this correct? Im used to much higher numbers on this. thanks for any Info!

K_Kalynuik · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2014, 01:21:59 PM »

Ill save the guru's some time by asking what year and model bike.

PeWe · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2014, 01:28:50 PM »

CB750?
F2 bolts usually recommended in CB750 K SOHC.
Avalaible here pos 6 & 7
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750f2-supersport-germany_model14692/partslist/E15.html#results

andrewsmotorsports.com · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2014, 05:45:39 AM »

Thanks for the reply! The engines we are building range thru all years (69-78) CB750. Just started doing some of these and have run out of bolts.... as many of them as are out there being built, there has got to be a way to do it. Thanks for the help.

MRieck · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2014, 08:53:33 AM »

What part # are you looking at for the bolts and nuts?

andrewsmotorsports.com · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2014, 10:43:29 AM »

The numbers we found were,
13213-333-003 Rod Bolt
13214-300-000 Rod Nut
Thanks, Rob

MRieck · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2014, 11:49:41 AM »

Quote from: andrewsmotorsports.com on March 07, 2014, 10:43:29 AM

The numbers we found were,
13213-333-003 Rod Bolt
13214-300-000 Rod Nut
Thanks, Rob

Rob....use 13213-KVO-000 (bolt) and 13214-410-003 (nut). These bolts are for the 77/78F. I have used them in 550 rods as well. They are stronger than the K bolts and torque to 18.8 ft lbs. Occasionally I have had to massage one side of the bolt cap OD a bit on a belt sander ( to fit in the bolt cut out) but very, very little material has to be removed.
Honda has these as I ordered 32 of each today and had my parts guy check on availability. Good luck!

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2014, 04:07:57 PM »

Mike, lest anyone be confused... 13213-KVO-000 should read 13213-KV0-000. Same bolts are used all the way through the CBR600F.

RR

MRieck · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2014, 04:34:36 PM »

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on March 07, 2014, 04:07:57 PM

Mike, lest anyone be confused... 13213-KVO-000 should read 13213-KV0-000. Same bolts are used all the way through the CBR600F. RR

Thanks....fat fingered mistake I guess.

Kickstart · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2014, 08:20:38 PM »

Quote from: MRieck on March 07, 2014, 11:49:41 AM

...These bolts are for the 77/78F. I have used them in 550 rods as well. They are stronger than the K bolts and torque to 18.8 ft lbs. ...

Is it ok that I only torqued those to 14.5 ft lbs? and, do I still get the benefit of the stronger bolts/nuts?

thanks,
Chris

andrewsmotorsports.com · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2014, 08:29:52 AM »

Thanks Guys!! Got some coming!!

MRieck · « **Reply #11 on:** March 13, 2014, 08:14:35 AM »

I just got word from my parts guy that Honda has the rod bolts and nuts on "technical hold". They don't expect to release them for at least 30 days. Just a heads up.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2014, 11:55:34 AM »

I view that as GOOD news! Better than DC'ed as they have been doing again lately!

Rocketman · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2014, 12:37:25 PM »

OK, you guys have me nervous. Just buttoned up the bottom end and torqued my rod bolts/nuts to 15 lbs as opposed to 18.8 lbs. What do you think?

bear · « **Reply #14 on:** March 13, 2014, 08:49:48 PM »

My opinion.
If you are using the "F" bolts.
And Mike say's 18.8lb, I'd be torquing to 18.8lb.
Not taking the stretch out of rod bolts is not a good thing.

Cheers,
Brian

Kickstart · « **Reply #15 on:** March 13, 2014, 09:21:52 PM »

Well, crap. I knew they were stronger, but I didn't realize you're suppose to torque them higher.

Garage_guy_chris · « **Reply #16 on:** March 13, 2014, 09:26:44 PM »

Im guessing this would be a good upgrade for a ebay 836cc kit'd engine over the 40 year old re-used at least once K bolts?. Is it the rod bolts that typically fail or another part of the stock rods?

bear · « **Reply #17 on:** March 14, 2014, 02:56:08 AM »

Quote from: Kickstart on March 13, 2014, 09:21:52 PM

Well, crap. I knew they were stronger, but I didn't realize you're suppose to torque them higher.

G'day Cris / Rocket

If you've locked her up already I wouldn't get to bent out of shape about it.
It's a weak link thing.
I'm looking at it from a different perspective than a road bike application.
It's unlikely that a couple of pounds torque on rod bolts are likely to bring you undone.
Comp motors on the other hand demand attention to detail or they will bite you on the ass.
As I said it's a weak link thing.

Cheers,
Brian

Big Jay · « **Reply #18 on:** March 14, 2014, 06:14:54 PM »

Always go by stretch

01Thomas · « **Reply #19 on:** March 15, 2014, 01:53:35 PM »

BJ, Do you know what the stretch specs for these rod bolts are?

regards
Thomas

MRieck · « **Reply #20 on:** March 15, 2014, 04:29:01 PM »

Quote from: 01Thomas on March 15, 2014, 01:53:35 PM

BJ, Do you know what the stretch specs for these rod bolts are?

regards
Thomas

I'd figure .004 to .006.

01Thomas · « **Reply #21 on:** March 18, 2014, 02:14:01 PM »

Thank Mike

Rocketman · « **Reply #22 on:** March 26, 2014, 09:14:49 AM »

Decided not to take the chance and pulled the motor back apart to torque the bots to 18.8 ft/lbs. The good news is you can do this with the crank in the bottom case. Live and learn. At least I only had to split the cases at this point.

Kickstart · « **Reply #23 on:** March 26, 2014, 06:51:07 PM »

Yeah, I'm planning to do the same thing this weekend.

Glad to hear it worked for you. I was thinking I should be able to remove the bottom case without removing the jugs and head, but wasn't 100% sure... thanks for posting.

It's going to be a pain to flip the engine over a couple times now that the jugs and head are on. It's also going to be tricky to clean up all the hondabond not being able to remove the crank and transmission. Hopefully it will come off easily since it hasn't gone through a heat cycle.

Garage_guy_chris · « **Reply #24 on:** July 25, 2014, 04:05:07 PM »

i had read through this whole thread and was ready to order the newer F2 bolts but something crossed my mind...

i have some presumed to be early rods with the first version 13213-300-020 bolts.

How do these stack up in the scheme of things? I haven't heard any mention of these bolts through this whole thread? it would be dead easy and free to swap these early bolts into the rods going into the engine if they would be an upgrade to the twisty shank ones.

heres a comparison 13213-300-020 to 13213-333-003

News:

Author Topic: Rod Bolts (Read 13668 times)