Topic: Powder coating

[calj737]

+2 ^^^^  anyone that knows body work knows it's all in the prep! And the "best" painters in the world (auto) will tell you, for professional results, professionally finish the paint (wet sand and buff).

There is another unique advantage to painting a frame versus powder coating it: filler. It's much easier to blend out dings and welds for a fully smooth look under paint than powder coat. There are fillers that can be used with powder coat, but they're much more rare and most powder coasters don't want to do that labor. So most powder coat jobs only cover the metal, and any imperfections transmit through.

So lots of show bikes are painted and filled underneath. This is something the OP can do, and with sufficient coats of paint and clear, can sand and buff it to a perfect shine. And today's urethane clears are very durable, scratch resistant, and can be touched up (even from a can).

I'd encourage you to check back, Twisted, and let's see if the OP can do a job you're impressed with 

[Lostboy Steve]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

Mate, i'm a painter by trade and have sprayed just about every paint known to man, from water based house paints and automotive paints, water based elastic roof paints to  industrial 2 pac's and Epoxies, The old fashioned enamel you talk about is rarely seen these days, acrylic, 2pac and now newer water based automotive paints like the ones fron Glasurit {BASF} are the norm..If you've " spent enough time around paint", why would you buy old fashioned single pac enamel to paint with..? {where is that even mentioned in this thread?} There's far better paints in a can on the market than that antiquated stuff, the last car I worked on for a shop enamel job was around 1979,{seriously}  acrylic and 2 pac ever since. I have done some rattle can jobs on my own bikes that i would bet you there's no way you could tell it apart from a shop job, guaranteed....You do know that you can order honda paint kits in cans? actually you can buy any type of paint you want in a can, the finishing is in the sanding and a good clear coat, as long as the prep and sanding and layering of paint is done properly there is not one iota of difference to using a spray gun....

Rarely seen? Every 500$ paint job from Maaco is baked enamel. Right on the care instructions it says don't sand, buff or use a paste wax. Only apply a spray detailer when required.

[thelowmax]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

You can get spray can tips that create a wider, flatter, more gun type spray than the usual rattle can round patterned tips. I have used these on tanks with excellent results.

[thelowmax]

My main concern now is how the paint will hold up to the heat of the engine. I've used engine casing paint on my headers before and, ultimately, they start to cook and peel. Obviously the frame won't get the same temps that the pipes do. I'll have to do some research and testing.

[thelowmax]

Every time I try it, it looks terrible. Maybe you're supposed to use a different compound? I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad. It leaves a terrible finish every time. Are you talking powders with a clear topcoat? Those I haven't tried to buff.

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No offense dude, but I see 3 main problems as to why you think a spray can won't get a powder coat or enamel look.

1- "every time I try" - You're basing your opinion on "your attempts".

2- "I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad" - You're using an ax to perform surgery. Use a fine 220/extra fine 400/ultra fine 600 and finer up into the 1000s. Wet sand and buff will create a glass like finish.

3- "I haven't tried to buff" - OK, 2 reasons. See reason #2.