Topic: Powder coating

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road. I don't need a show bike. I just want a get on and go bike.

Thanks guys. Once again you have put me on the road and I'm heading forward. Thanks so much. XO

[Stev-o]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

[lucky]

When I had two frames powder coated they sandblasted the almost clean frame.
Then they dipped the frame in a phosphoric acid bath to stop all of the corrosion inside the frame. Then a rinse tank.
After powder coating the frame was heated to 350º for a number of hours.

It comes out looking like black glass and very tough and resistant to scratching and nicks.
Worth every penny.

You don't want to over cure the powder by leaving it in too long or it becomes brittle. The part is suppose to reach cure temp and stay there for 10 minutes, not a "number of hours"

I was just guessing on the time. OOps.
I actually do not know. The company powder coats many custom cars and other manufactured items.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

[Powderman]

the dangers of a gas stove are not as high as everyone makes it out to be. If you sprinkle powder dust in front of an open flame it will ignite like flour or any other powdery substance. The chances of having dust sprinkling around inside your gas oven is small. Many commercial outfits use nothing but gas fired ovens. You  just don't want open flame in the cure area of the oven. It has nothing to do with "off-gassing"

[lucky]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

A spray can will never get the same result as powder coat.
Even with that special clear coat that comes in a special spray can that has two parts.

[lucky]

Google PC heat lamps and your going to see they are kind of expensive. I sent my frame, swing arm and center stand out for powder coating and it cost me $86. Just talked with the people for a while and got a good price. Then I went to Harbor Freight and got the $69 PC gun. Went to Lowes and got a large storage tub and made a coating cabinet. Used shop vac for ventilation.  Found examples on internet on how to make it. Ordered my PC powders from Eastwood. As for air a small compressor will do. I did mine with a 5 gal compressor. Went to Walmart and found the largest countertop oven I could find. Works great. I was able to PC everything except the above mentioned.
As for the PC gun the HF only comes with two cups, but you can go to Caswell plating web site and they have the same cups for $2.99 that fit the HF gun perfectly. 
The bottom line is DIY PC is doable with just a little effort and not a lot of cash. As for the frame, well your going to have to be creative and spend a little money if your going to do it yourself.

If you use a regular shop vacuum for getting rid of paint dust or fumes you can have an explosion!

That is why real paint vacuum systems are expensive is because the system protects against the possibility of a spark.


There have been million dollar explosions from flour dust.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

I don't know why I wrote gas stove. Brain glitch. It's an electric stove. I wouldn't even be able to hook a gas stove up where I want to because I don't have a gas line near my shop. But I do have an appliance type outlet. Regardless, I wasn't aware of the combustability factor, so thanks for the heads up.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

A spray can will never get the same result as powder coat.
Even with that special clear coat that comes in a special spray can that has two parts.

I'm a painter by trade. I think I'll get a pretty decent result. I've painted many gas tanks and such with spray cans and am confident that, visually, it will be virtually identical to a powder coat. Thanks though.

[Lostboy Steve]

There is no way in hell that you can ever get the finish from a rattle can like you will from mixed paint and a spray gun. Also, with most of the newer powders, they flow out like glass and specifically the 2 coat colors, look deep and wet. Either way powder or rattle can, you can never wet sand and buff to rid minor imperfections and/or orange peel like you can with a mixed, spray gun job.

[Powderman]

There is no way in hell that you can ever get the finish from a rattle can like you will from mixed paint and a spray gun. Also, with most of the newer powders, they flow out like glass and specifically the 2 coat colors, look deep and wet. Either way powder or rattle can, you can never wet sand and buff to rid minor imperfections and/or orange peel like you can with a mixed, spray gun job.

Powder can be sanded and buffed just like paint, don't know where you got your info from.

[Lostboy Steve]

Every time I try it, it looks terrible. Maybe you're supposed to use a different compound? I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad. It leaves a terrible finish every time. Are you talking powders with a clear topcoat? Those I haven't tried to buff.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Retro Rocket]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

[Lostboy Steve]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

[Retro Rocket]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

Mate, i'm a painter by trade and have sprayed just about every paint known to man, from water based house paints and automotive paints, water based elastic roof paints to  industrial 2 pac's and Epoxies, The old fashioned enamel you talk about is rarely seen these days, acrylic, 2pac and now newer water based automotive paints like the ones fron Glasurit {BASF} are the norm..If you've " spent enough time around paint", why would you buy old fashioned single pac enamel to paint with..? {where is that even mentioned in this thread?} There's far better paints in a can on the market than that antiquated stuff, the last car I worked on for a shop enamel job was around 1979,{seriously}  acrylic and 2 pac ever since. I have done some rattle can jobs on my own bikes that i would bet you there's no way you could tell it apart from a shop job, guaranteed....You do know that you can order honda paint kits in cans? actually you can buy any type of paint you want in a can, the finishing is in the sanding and a good clear coat, as long as the prep and sanding and layering of paint is done properly there is not one iota of difference to using a spray gun....

[seanbarney41]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

[Retro Rocket]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

Yeah for sure, if painting a car use gun, use what ever you like to paint anything , i've seen a car painted with a roller, yes a foam roller and it came out sensational, it was more to do with the sanding than painting but it was exceptionally well done and it was only done to prove that it could be done,    Just don't say that you can't get a good spray job out of a can because it is quite easy if you know what you are doing and use the right paint.......

[Lostboy Steve]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

Mate, i'm a painter by trade and have sprayed just about every paint known to man, from water based house paints and automotive paints, water based elastic roof paints to  industrial 2 pac's and Epoxies, The old fashioned enamel you talk about is rarely seen these days, acrylic, 2pac and now newer water based automotive paints like the ones fron Glasurit {BASF} are the norm..If you've " spent enough time around paint", why would you buy old fashioned single pac enamel to paint with..? {where is that even mentioned in this thread?} There's far better paints in a can on the market than that antiquated stuff, the last car I worked on for a shop enamel job was around 1979,{seriously}  acrylic and 2 pac ever since. I have done some rattle can jobs on my own bikes that i would bet you there's no way you could tell it apart from a shop job, guaranteed....You do know that you can order honda paint kits in cans? actually you can buy any type of paint you want in a can, the finishing is in the sanding and a good clear coat, as long as the prep and sanding and layering of paint is done properly there is not one iota of difference to using a spray gun....

Rarely seen? Every 500$ paint job from Maaco is baked enamel. Right on the care instructions it says don't sand, buff or use a paste wax. Only apply a spray detailer when required.

[thelowmax]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

You can get spray can tips that create a wider, flatter, more gun type spray than the usual rattle can round patterned tips. I have used these on tanks with excellent results.

[thelowmax]

My main concern now is how the paint will hold up to the heat of the engine. I've used engine casing paint on my headers before and, ultimately, they start to cook and peel. Obviously the frame won't get the same temps that the pipes do. I'll have to do some research and testing.

[thelowmax]

Every time I try it, it looks terrible. Maybe you're supposed to use a different compound? I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad. It leaves a terrible finish every time. Are you talking powders with a clear topcoat? Those I haven't tried to buff.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

No offense dude, but I see 3 main problems as to why you think a spray can won't get a powder coat or enamel look.

1- "every time I try" - You're basing your opinion on "your attempts".

2- "I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad" - You're using an ax to perform surgery. Use a fine 220/extra fine 400/ultra fine 600 and finer up into the 1000s. Wet sand and buff will create a glass like finish.

3- "I haven't tried to buff" - OK, 2 reasons. See reason #2.