Topic: Powder coating

[NobleHops]

For the record, all I've done is Google "powder coat Boston", go through the list and call, leave a message (not one has picked up the phone) telling them what I'm looking to have done, and they call back with a quote. Out of 9 places, only 4 have actually called me back. They couldn't see the "sucker" sign anyway.

All I want done is my frame, swing arm and trees, in gloss black.

If you don't mind a drive up to the NH border, there is a guy in Greenland called Powder Coating Alternatives - his name is Don, and he is a craftsman:

http://www.propca.com/

He did all the powder work on my CBX project and also baked my engine after I painted it, and a bunch of other polishing and chrome work he sent out for me. He's a great guy too. I do not recall his prices, I don't think they were as sharp as Powderman's but I felt them fair.

Give him my regards!

[fendersrule]

I'm surprised to hear people here say that NO "reputable" power coating place will do piece work. That isn't true for all. Why should I pay someone to do the same thing I can do at home with professional equipment? Spraying and heating is the part that takes very little time. Sandblasting every little crevice is the time consuming part. Why should I pay $50/hour for someone to do that? I've took my blasted parts to a couple shops here and they all had no problem coating what I bring them. There's only one shop here in town that will not to peice work, and I choose to not do business with them.

For the shops that won't do piece work, there are shops that will. That doesn't mean of any quality difference...

Every shop I have been to says that chrome/nickel cannot be "blasted" off to bare steel. This is what I've heard from some industrial places here in town. I chose to take my chromed parts to Northwest Chrome and they chemically removed them for hardly any cost at all. Took them a day and I think I paid only $20-30 for two fenders and brackets.

[Powderman]

I'm surprised to hear people here say that NO "reputable" power coating place will do piece work. That isn't true for all. Why should I pay someone to do the same thing I can do at home with professional equipment? Spraying and heating is the part that takes very little time. Sandblasting every little crevice is the time consuming part. Why should I pay $50/hour for someone to do that? I've took my blasted parts to a couple shops here and they all had no problem coating what I bring them. There's only one shop here in town that will not to peice work, and I choose to not do business with them.

For the shops that won't do piece work, there are shops that will. That doesn't mean of any quality difference...

Every shop I have been to says that chrome/nickel cannot be "blasted" off to bare steel. This is what I've heard from some industrial places here in town. I chose to take my chromed parts to Northwest Chrome and they chemically removed them for hardly any cost at all. Took them a day and I think I paid only $20-30 for two fenders and brackets.

It's not that chrome can't be blasted to bare metal. It's just that it is so hard that it is time consuming doing it and they don't want to take the time or have to explain to you why it would cost so much to do it. In my area most of the chrome platers will not strip parts for you unless they get the job to rechrome it. By 2016 you will start to see many chrome placing closing down because of the new EPA regulations going into effect. My commercial blaster doesn't have any problem removing chrome. I was just discussing his set up tonight. He has a 75hp compressor that puts out 125ccfm at the nozzle with 3 booths running. Most places are lucky to have 13-20ccfm which is pretty good for blasting most things rapidly. Nickel is much softer then chrome and is easily blasted off.

[Lostboy Steve]

I'm surprised to hear people here say that NO "reputable" power coating place will do piece work. That isn't true for all. Why should I pay someone to do the same thing I can do at home with professional equipment? Spraying and heating is the part that takes very little time. Sandblasting every little crevice is the time consuming part. Why should I pay $50/hour for someone to do that? I've took my blasted parts to a couple shops here and they all had no problem coating what I bring them. There's only one shop here in town that will not to peice work, and I choose to not do business with them.

For the shops that won't do piece work, there are shops that will. That doesn't mean of any quality difference...

Every shop I have been to says that chrome/nickel cannot be "blasted" off to bare steel. This is what I've heard from some industrial places here in town. I chose to take my chromed parts to Northwest Chrome and they chemically removed them for hardly any cost at all. Took them a day and I think I paid only $20-30 for two fenders and brackets.

It's not that chrome can't be blasted to bare metal. It's just that it is so hard that it is time consuming doing it and they don't want to take the time or have to explain to you why it would cost so much to do it. In my area most of the chrome platers will not strip parts for you unless they get the job to rechrome it. By 2016 you will start to see many chrome placing closing down because of the new EPA regulations going into effect. My commercial blaster doesn't have any problem removing chrome. I was just discussing his set up tonight. He has a 75hp compressor that puts out 125ccfm at the nozzle with 3 booths running. Most places are lucky to have 13-20ccfm which is pretty good for blasting most things rapidly. Nickel is much softer then chrome and is easily blasted off.

Whats wrong with powdering over chrome? I had many parts that were done this way. You just need the media to etch the surface am I right? I had my 20" rims coated in wrinkle black because the chrome was peeling. I scraped off whatever was loose and the powdercoater etched the whole thing and coated them. Its been like 6 years and they still look great.

[Powderman]

You got lucky on your rims that the chrome didn't continue to peel off. It's an age old argument about whether you really need a blasted surface or not. Well of course many of us have had successful Candy jobs over polished chrome plating, aluminum or stainless that are still going strong today. I have never had a return from Candy colors peeling off chrome plating that hasn't been blasted. Is a blasted surface better, Yes. Is a non blasted surface not as durable, Yes. But does that mean it will peel off tomorrow, next week, or possibly never. No one knows. For numbers sake lets say a blasted surface is 100%, what is a non blasted surface, 90%, 75%, 50%? Who knows. If all that is needed for most applications is 50%, then we are probably safe to continue shooting candies on chrome. Use you best judgement on where to use the different applications. You don't want to use a Candy on a polished surface that sees a lot rocks and debris thrown at it, but it has it's uses.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road. I don't need a show bike. I just want a get on and go bike.

Thanks guys. Once again you have put me on the road and I'm heading forward. Thanks so much. XO

[Stev-o]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

[lucky]

When I had two frames powder coated they sandblasted the almost clean frame.
Then they dipped the frame in a phosphoric acid bath to stop all of the corrosion inside the frame. Then a rinse tank.
After powder coating the frame was heated to 350º for a number of hours.

It comes out looking like black glass and very tough and resistant to scratching and nicks.
Worth every penny.

You don't want to over cure the powder by leaving it in too long or it becomes brittle. The part is suppose to reach cure temp and stay there for 10 minutes, not a "number of hours"

I was just guessing on the time. OOps.
I actually do not know. The company powder coats many custom cars and other manufactured items.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

[calj737]

Danger Will Robinson! Don't use a gas stove when curing Powdercoated items. The off-gassing can be hazardous. Every powder coat vendor I've seen that sells material states" Electric ovens only. So I don't have firsthand experience, but I have read that numerous times.

Perhaps Powderman can verify this?

[Powderman]

the dangers of a gas stove are not as high as everyone makes it out to be. If you sprinkle powder dust in front of an open flame it will ignite like flour or any other powdery substance. The chances of having dust sprinkling around inside your gas oven is small. Many commercial outfits use nothing but gas fired ovens. You  just don't want open flame in the cure area of the oven. It has nothing to do with "off-gassing"

[lucky]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

A spray can will never get the same result as powder coat.
Even with that special clear coat that comes in a special spray can that has two parts.

[lucky]

Google PC heat lamps and your going to see they are kind of expensive. I sent my frame, swing arm and center stand out for powder coating and it cost me $86. Just talked with the people for a while and got a good price. Then I went to Harbor Freight and got the $69 PC gun. Went to Lowes and got a large storage tub and made a coating cabinet. Used shop vac for ventilation.  Found examples on internet on how to make it. Ordered my PC powders from Eastwood. As for air a small compressor will do. I did mine with a 5 gal compressor. Went to Walmart and found the largest countertop oven I could find. Works great. I was able to PC everything except the above mentioned.
As for the PC gun the HF only comes with two cups, but you can go to Caswell plating web site and they have the same cups for $2.99 that fit the HF gun perfectly. 
The bottom line is DIY PC is doable with just a little effort and not a lot of cash. As for the frame, well your going to have to be creative and spend a little money if your going to do it yourself.

If you use a regular shop vacuum for getting rid of paint dust or fumes you can have an explosion!

That is why real paint vacuum systems are expensive is because the system protects against the possibility of a spark.


There have been million dollar explosions from flour dust.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

I don't know why I wrote gas stove. Brain glitch. It's an electric stove. I wouldn't even be able to hook a gas stove up where I want to because I don't have a gas line near my shop. But I do have an appliance type outlet. Regardless, I wasn't aware of the combustability factor, so thanks for the heads up.

[thelowmax]

If you can't find an affordable option for power coating locally, then try POR-15 chasis paint. Many members use it and swear by it's results. Some even spray clear coat over afterwards. It is possibly as close to a durable finish as powder coat, for a lot less money.

I love powder coating, and use it everywhere I can, but I understand not all projects have the budget for it.

Considering that I can't find somebody local for less than $500 (a couple of places wanted $650-$800), I think I'm going to do some testing with POR-15. The more I think about it, the more I just want to get it on the road.

All things considered, good choice.  Por15 is a great product.  Just be sure to properly prep the frame, blasting it down to bare metal would be best.


http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html

I still might get a cheap setup and try out a few small pieces myself just to see how it works and the results I get (A buddy of mine has an old gas stove in he's getting rid of) but for my frame, at $23 a can, for less than $50, I bet I'll be the only one who will know that it's spray can and not powder coat. Thanks guys. Once again you have taken me to school and set me straight.

A spray can will never get the same result as powder coat.
Even with that special clear coat that comes in a special spray can that has two parts.

I'm a painter by trade. I think I'll get a pretty decent result. I've painted many gas tanks and such with spray cans and am confident that, visually, it will be virtually identical to a powder coat. Thanks though.

[calj737]

You're right, you can get a decent result from quality spray cans, especially with your experience and good, proper preparation. It won't be as durable as powder coat, but it can be good and it can be touched up if damaged.

Knock it and post some pics when you're done! Maybe next project powder coat will be viable for you-

[Lostboy Steve]

There is no way in hell that you can ever get the finish from a rattle can like you will from mixed paint and a spray gun. Also, with most of the newer powders, they flow out like glass and specifically the 2 coat colors, look deep and wet. Either way powder or rattle can, you can never wet sand and buff to rid minor imperfections and/or orange peel like you can with a mixed, spray gun job.

[Powderman]

There is no way in hell that you can ever get the finish from a rattle can like you will from mixed paint and a spray gun. Also, with most of the newer powders, they flow out like glass and specifically the 2 coat colors, look deep and wet. Either way powder or rattle can, you can never wet sand and buff to rid minor imperfections and/or orange peel like you can with a mixed, spray gun job.

Powder can be sanded and buffed just like paint, don't know where you got your info from.

[Lostboy Steve]

Every time I try it, it looks terrible. Maybe you're supposed to use a different compound? I use the 3m stuff and a medium pad. It leaves a terrible finish every time. Are you talking powders with a clear topcoat? Those I haven't tried to buff.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[calj737]

Twisted- spray can paint jobs, and powder coat jobs can be wet sanded and buffed. Buffing is only beneficial if there is a "cut" stage before the buffing.

As Powderman stated, PC takes wet sanding and buffing also. I've used 1,000 grit followed by 2,000 grit and a Swirl were,over with a foam pad and had great results. I'd probably use the same method for a rattle can job. If the OP has painting experience, and preps and applies the product properly, with sufficient coats to allow wet sanding and buffing, then he'll be fine.

You can attempt this on some practice metal to achieve the results you seek. Just experiment with different grits (I always start high and go low) to determine how much bite you need to remove the imperfections. Gentle hands, and multi-stage sanding yield better results than heavy cut and fewer stages.

Powder coat is a higher quality finish, but painted frames can be, and many are, just as beautiful and common.

[Retro Rocket]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

[Lostboy Steve]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

[Retro Rocket]

I would love to know why you can't sand and buff spray can paint..? If its automotive spray can paint you can do exactly the same processes as you can to spray paint, I have seen and done spray can jobs that you would never know it came out of a can and i'm not the only one, there's some great examples on the forum...

Do what you will... Even the 500$ Maaco enamel jobs aren't meant to be sanded or buffed. In fact any one coat baked on or air dry (unhardened) enamel isn't. I've spent enough time around paint. Although I'm sure people have done it with moderate success, why not do it correctly? You say these jobs look good, and from a few feet away or in a picture they probably do, but don't tell me that in a line up of bikes I couldn't tell the one rattle canned.

Mate, i'm a painter by trade and have sprayed just about every paint known to man, from water based house paints and automotive paints, water based elastic roof paints to  industrial 2 pac's and Epoxies, The old fashioned enamel you talk about is rarely seen these days, acrylic, 2pac and now newer water based automotive paints like the ones fron Glasurit {BASF} are the norm..If you've " spent enough time around paint", why would you buy old fashioned single pac enamel to paint with..? {where is that even mentioned in this thread?} There's far better paints in a can on the market than that antiquated stuff, the last car I worked on for a shop enamel job was around 1979,{seriously}  acrylic and 2 pac ever since. I have done some rattle can jobs on my own bikes that i would bet you there's no way you could tell it apart from a shop job, guaranteed....You do know that you can order honda paint kits in cans? actually you can buy any type of paint you want in a can, the finishing is in the sanding and a good clear coat, as long as the prep and sanding and layering of paint is done properly there is not one iota of difference to using a spray gun....

[seanbarney41]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

[Retro Rocket]

spray guns are necessary when trying to cover large areas, like a car...kind of overkill for motorcycle parts...obviously, a quality spraygun is better, but spraycans are often the only practical alternative for the careful diy'er

Yeah for sure, if painting a car use gun, use what ever you like to paint anything , i've seen a car painted with a roller, yes a foam roller and it came out sensational, it was more to do with the sanding than painting but it was exceptionally well done and it was only done to prove that it could be done,    Just don't say that you can't get a good spray job out of a can because it is quite easy if you know what you are doing and use the right paint.......